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  1. #1

    Default Ball joint replacement on 1995 C1500 2wd

    I need to replace my upper and lower ball joints on my 1995 C1500 2WD. They are the originals so I know that I need to cut the rivits out of the upper one. Does the lower one need to be pressed out or can i be taken out by hitting it with a hammer? Also are there any tips that would make it easier to do all this?

    Thanks for you help!
    1995 C1500 4.3L 2WD. JET TBI Spacer, JET stage 1 chip, 10mm Taylor custom wires, Pulstar Iridium Pulse Plugs.
    260k miles and still going strong...

  2. #2
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    Rather than cut the rivits off, use a grinder to grind the heads off. It's a lot easier, then use a drift punch to knock the rivits out.
    For the lowers it's better to use a press if you have access to one, but if you support the A arm well enough all around 360 degrees you can use a hammer. I cut a hole with the appropriate size hole saw out of a 2 ft by 2 foot block of wood to make a relief for the ball joint when the nearest press was 40 miles away & it worked well. The key is to properly support the A arm, (whether pressing or hammering) because you could bend it if it's not properly supported.
    1988 Chevy C-3500 2wd (no pic)
    350 c.i. 5.7 L Stock Block, 4 Bolt Mains
    L-31 Vortec Heads, Edelbrock Cam & Intake,
    Holley 650, Flowtech Headers, Magnaflow exh.
    Jet Trans 700R4, B&M Ratchet, 4:10 gears,
    3" susp. lift kit "shadetree"
    No rev limiter, No speed limiter lol


  3. #3

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    If you're not pulling the lower control arm off the truck, you can rent a ball joint press from autozone. It's basically a huge C-clamp with a couple of anvils and cones to provide clearance for the ball joint. It'll press the ball joints in and out fairly easily.
    Christopher

    1991 Chevy Suburban 1/2 ton 2WD w/ chevy SBC 350-3/4 ton drivetrain upgrade w/4.10 gears 200K miles
    2005 Saturn ION-2 Stock 265K miles
    1982 Bronco, 1993 Bronco (sold), 1971 M35A2 Deuce and a Half



    There are 10 kinds of people, those who understand binary, and those who dont...

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  4. #4

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    x2 on what was said in the previos 2 posts
    David
    2004 Silverado 2500 Crew Cab 4x4, AMSOIL EA air filter, Granatelli MAF sensor, Throttle body spacer, Magnaflow exhaust (true dual to 2 in 1 out muffler), 6" ProComp lift (add a leaf and 5" superlift rear block), Bilstein shocks, 35's (Cooper Disoverer ST) and 4.10 gears, Rhino Liner, EGRUSA fender Flares and widow visors, extended stainless steel brake lines, firestone airbags w/onboard air compressor, Pioneer Avic X940BT navigation, Accel backup camera.
    http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...Silverado-2500
    1960 Land Rover Series II 88
    2001 Pontiac Sunfire
    2013 Toyota Avalon Limited (Wife's Car)
    NRA Life Member

  5. #5

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    Thanks for the help all, got em out and all fixed!
    1995 C1500 4.3L 2WD. JET TBI Spacer, JET stage 1 chip, 10mm Taylor custom wires, Pulstar Iridium Pulse Plugs.
    260k miles and still going strong...

  6. #6

    Default

    Hey Chris,
    How's those 4.10 gears work for you? Was wondering about what kind of tranny you have, how many speeds, how it runs at 60 to 70 mph, and last of all, mileage?
    Dan

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