What engine can replace 350 in 89 suburban

[Big6ft6]

Hello,

I just bought a super cheap beater 89 suburban with 209k miles on it. I just want to use it for haulin' and huntin' etc a few times a year.

anyway, it burns a lot of oil..hard to breathe with the windows down

so I've been cruisin' craigslist for another 350 I can drop in. Do I need to find another late 80's engine or can I used any 350? Are the mount holes in the engine block the same for all 350 blocks from any year?

What should I be looking for?

[TrailLeadr]

Welcome to the club, and congrats on the burb!

hmmm...as far as I know you should be able to use any 350. Perhaps someone else can confirm this.

[Big6ft6]

Welcome to the club, and congrats on the burb!

hmmm...as far as I know you should be able to use any 350. Perhaps someone else can confirm this.

Thanks trail-leader. That was my assumption too, but I'm always "measuring twice and cutting once" before running with my assumptions. If I can get a couple of confident answers from the experienced guys on here I'll feel good!

[tbplus10]

The Chevy 350 from that era is the most common engine ever produced. The small block bolt pattern is a common size and was used on almost every chevy engine built 283, 327, 400 SB, 350, 4.3, and all factory replacement small blocks.
The difference is in the heads, induction system, intake manifold, and firing system. Luckily Chevy didnt waste money reengineering things, they retrofitted items. And almost all the previous items mentioned are interchangeable from engine to engine. You may need use some of your original parts to make a different year engine fit, but with a little work it will fit.

[phoebeisis]

I should butt out since I'm a very new Suburban owner-4 weeks-and have generally been a Toyota,Honda,once GM, owner over the years.
However-
I'm pretty sure your truck has a Throttle body type fuel injection system,so it has a fair amount of electronic control and feedback.
If you try to drop a carb motor in it, it will fit, but the wiring harnesses will give you more grief than it is worth.There are plenty of 87-95 350s-or 5.7s out there,I would stick with them if at all possible.
There are also 305's out there-and they might overlap with the 350's-year wise.Some folks selling their motors assume all the V-8s in trucks are 350.
I sure can't tell a 305 from a 350, but someone here sure can.
You certainly could just buy an older motor with the carb =whatever passes for a black box,and bolt it in.You should be able to get it to work-just bypass all your BLACK BOX STUFF,but it would run like-well,you know.
There are many,many online dealers that sell rebuilt 350's online.
You won't want to spend this much $$, but chevy engine
sells a new-no CS rebuilt- genuine GM crate 350 for 1/2 ton trucks 87-95 for $1770-This is a NEW GM motor made by GM-can't beat that.
Just keep that in mind before spending over about $600 for a motor pulled out of a 150,000 mile vehicle.
Plan B might be to get your buddies together-pull your motor-and do a half assed rebuild-my favorite.Install new valve guide seals-then sorta hone the cylinders up to the ridge-replace all but the top ring-and bolt it back together. This might cost $400 with all the gaskets,rings, valve guide seals, oil,coolant etc.If you aren'ty actually leaking oil-it will fix it(kinda).
The above is waaaay too much work for me.
I would look for a decent take out motor-87-95- for $500 or so,or save my pennies,and go for the new GM motor.
I've been debating this myself since my new 1998 has 196,000 miles on it.We do a lot of night driving across TX(TX is filled with "middle of nowhere") so I don't really feel comfortable with a 196,000 mile motor(but the sucker runs great,hate to fix something that isn't obviously broken).
Plan C is "oil is cheap"-kinda nasty having to inhale it of course.

Luck,
Charlie

[Big6ft6]

I'm pretty sure your truck has a Throttle body type fuel injection system,so it has a fair amount of electronic control and feedback.

Thanks for the info Charlie. I only paid $500 for the burb, it does have a ***TBI*** (edit, I was an idiot I should've looked when the sller told me it was a carb) engine, according to the seller that was factory in 89 for 3/4 ton (I was surprised)? Anyway, based on my cheapo purchase price, I'm a little squeamish about the GM-crate motors, even the $1300 ones. That is too nice of a motor (but it would be cool) for this beast.

Also...can anyone suggest how in the heck you get an engine hoist to lift an engine up over the front end up a huge truck like this?

[Big6ft6]

Tim-

thank for the reply..you sound pretty sure of yourself....and that was my understanding too..so I'm feelin' pretty good!

[TrailLeadr]

Also...can anyone suggest how in the heck you get an engine hoist to lift an engine up over the front end up a huge truck like this?

I'm using a standard engine hoist, and my burb is on jack stands to boot. I'm not having any trouble with the engine hoist and engine clearing the side or front of the engine compartment.



What kind of hoist are you using?

The only thing I can suggest is to shorten the length of chain to the hook, and use a lift plate on the engine.

Does this burb have a lift kit on it?

[Big6ft6]

I'm not having any trouble with the engine hoist and engine clearing the side or front of the engine compartment.

Does this burb have a lift kit on it?

Hey TrailLeader, that is the exact same hoist I have. Maybe it won't be an issue. The reason I was concerned is that I barely made it over the front end of 71 nova with that 350..and the burb is at least a foot or two taller over the fender! But I believe you, I'll just need to be sure I keep the chain short. That will be great if that hoist works. One more hurdle down!

[TrailLeadr]

I also would suggest extending the bar out are far as you can, this way it will increase the highest point (where hook is) at it's max lift.