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  1. #1

    Post Front Driver Door Sags...

    Just bought a 98 Suburban LS (214000 miles, 1500, 2WD) for $2000 here in NC. Just charged up AC, but noticed the door sags, so much that the light switch cutoff isn't properly depressed and interior lights stay on unless I kit the dome override switch. Is there a fix for this issue? when I lift up on the end of the door, there is obvious play. Looking for a detailed writeup on the procedure.

    Thanks.

  2. #2

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    Welcome. We Don't have a "How-to" for this yet. Are you a handy/mechanically inclined fella?



    Jamie

    2007 Ford E250(Work van) (Ya, Ya, shut up!)
    1996 GMC Sierra SLE 1500 5.7L/4L60E

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by Alchemist View Post
    Just bought a 98 Suburban LS (214000 miles, 1500, 2WD) for $2000 here in NC. Just charged up AC, but noticed the door sags, so much that the light switch cutoff isn't properly depressed and interior lights stay on unless I kit the dome override switch. Is there a fix for this issue? when I lift up on the end of the door, there is obvious play. Looking for a detailed writeup on the procedure.

    Thanks.
    Wow, that's a good amount of miles for a 9-10 year old burban.

    From my experience, doors are put on differently than they used to. In my 2002 Trailblazer, I don't even see any bolts that I can adjust the door with. The hinge appears to be welded. On the '98, check to see if there are a few bolts that help align up the door with the body. Open the door up and have a look, you should see them if they are there.

    Steve
    10 Chevy Traverse LT AWD
    02 Chevy Trailblazer LS (110K+ miles - loaded except for 4WD - WRECKED!)
    99 Chevy Cavalier LS (105K+ miles - commuter car)
    78 Chevy Suburban Silverado (454, 3/4 ton)
    62 GMC 3/4 ton Pickup (350 police interceptor)

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  4. #4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Alchemist View Post
    Just bought a 98 Suburban LS (214000 miles, 1500, 2WD) for $2000 here in NC. Just charged up AC, but noticed the door sags, so much that the light switch cutoff isn't properly depressed and interior lights stay on unless I kit the dome override switch. Is there a fix for this issue? when I lift up on the end of the door, there is obvious play. Looking for a detailed writeup on the procedure.

    Thanks.
    Does the door or frame appear to have any damage to it?

  5. #5

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    I have replaced dozens of hinge pins on all different types of vehicles and that is most likely the problem with this truck.

    With that many miles the drivers door has been opened thousands of times more than any of the others, so naturally they are the ones to show the most wear.

    First to be sure that it is the hinge have a helper lift the door by the outside edge while you look at both hinges. Pay special attention to the hinge pins as your helper is moving the door up and down.

    If it is the hinge pins you will see the movement right there. If it is the welds,(the newer ones are welded in worst mistake GM ever did) so look at the hinge itself and what is moving. If it is the hinge you need to have it welded. That I would recommend sending to a body shop unless you have a MIG welder and some experience. It can be done by someone with a jack and welder but unless you know what you are doing you could make it worse.

    To replace the pins it is fairly simple but does require a helper or floor jack, I have done them that way.

    Tool required to replace the pins.

    Floor jack, they do make a special door jack, (costly and most people don’t have access to them.)

    Hammer, 3 or four lb

    Spring compressor, handiest tool you will ever spend $10 on, but most parts stores have a loan a toll program for these.

    Punch the longer the better, but this can be done with a short one, just be careful not to beat the door instead of the punch. I have used a peace of 3/8” steel rod, but I am a welder and have thing s like that laying around.

    Forgot, first you must remove the spring in the hinge, I believe its in the lower one. Clamp the spring compressor on the spring in the wide open position and tighten it down until it is small enough to remove. Leave the spring in the tool until ready to put it back. This is the first and last thing you should do.

    The pins go in opposing directions, one goes up one goes down. You will see that right away. Simply hit the pointed part of the pin until it is loose and can be grabbed, if it is that loose you may even be able to pull the thing out with a pair of pliers in the beginning without the punch and hammer.

    Then replace the pin and go one to the next one.
    Last edited by 84fiero123; 07-25-2007 at 07:12 AM. Reason: STML that and i just forgot.

    Technology is great, when it Works,
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    94 GMC Burban, 5.7L (350), 4X4, Auto
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    15 year GM assembly line worker.

  6. #6

    Default

    The only other thing I would recommend (If its OK) Putting a blanket strategicaly around painted and glass area, maybe some tape to hold it. (Since you need to invite a B.F. Hammer to the party) The pin hole can become distorted from wear (Egg shaped hole) requiring a brass bushing and to be re-drilled, which will need to be reseated into new hole.
    You did a pretty sweet job Feiro for a guy with STML and other assorted pains, J/K...

    BTW don't forget a blanet or rag between door and floor jack...Cuz paint is a terrible thing to waste..
    Last edited by Cableguy; 07-25-2007 at 07:52 AM.

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cableguy View Post
    The only other thing I would recommend (If its OK) Putting a blanket strategicaly around painted and glass area, maybe some tape to hold it. (Since you need to invite a B.F. Hammer to the party) The pin hole can become distorted from wear (Egg shaped hole) requiring a brass bushing and to be re-drilled, which will need to be reseated into new hole.
    You did a pretty sweet job Feiro for a guy with STML and other assorted pains, J/K...

    BTW don't forget a blanet or rag between door and floor jack...Cuz paint is a terrible thing to waste..
    Smart aleck, LOL J/K

    Itís the writing of the post I have the problem with, not remembering something I have done dozens of times.

    If you noticed I had forgotten to say remove the hinge spring first and had to edit it in after.

    PS

    See I still forgot to saw I use a wooden block between the jack and the flat spot on the bottom of the door.

  8. #8

    Default

    its the small stuff we forget when we have done it 100s of times

    2005 Canyon 28000 2.5
    Curt
    Lincolnton NC

  9. #9

    Default

    it kind of sounds like to me that the actual striker pin in the frame of the truck that holds that door closed is a culprit, that or the actual striker mechanism in the door. If the dome light switch won't close enough to turn the dome light off, the door has to be sagging tremendously even when the door is closed. Is the door loose in the truck when it's closed? I have a similar issue with my '91 where my doors will rattle when I'm driving because the striker pins are wore out and I haven't gotten around to replacing them and aligning them.
    Last edited by Crawdaddy; 07-25-2007 at 07:50 AM. Reason: speeling errors
    Christopher

    1991 Chevy Suburban 1/2 ton 2WD w/ chevy SBC 350-3/4 ton drivetrain upgrade w/4.10 gears 200K miles
    2005 Saturn ION-2 Stock 277K miles
    1982 Bronco, 1993 Bronco (sold), 1971 M35A2 Deuce and a Half



    There are 10 kinds of people, those who understand binary, and those who dont...

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  10. #10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Alchemist View Post
    when I lift up on the end of the door, there is obvious play.
    He did mention that but good point, Crawdaddy!

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