Results 1 to 6 of 6
06-02-2011, 08:11 PM #1
- Join Date
- Jun 2011
- Cranston, Rhode Island, United States
Problems removing brake rotors on truck-K2500
I hope there is someone who can help me. I am having a devil of a time getting the front rotors off the front of my 1996 K2500 5.7 truck. I got the calipers off which was a bi$#%.
I sprayed PB blaster on the studs and around the back side of the rotor where it touches the hub. I got the spindle nut off with the 36mm socket. By the looks of the backside of the rotor, its onto the hub pretty good with a fair amount of corrosion. Am I:
a.) missing a step in the rotor removal process or
b.) not knowing what the tricks are to doing this
I have read about people taking sawzalls and cutting the brakes off like pizza wedges but is there something else. Please help!
06-03-2011, 09:17 AM #2
Sorry i'm not familar with it, but i did find somebody on the net explaining it.
2009 Silverado 1500
5.3L / 3.73 G80 / 4spd / 4x4 / LWB/ Ext Cab / HD Tow-Haul
2.25in ReadyLift Level Kit / 3in blocks/ 3500lb HellWig / 265x65x17 Wrangler AT
K&N Filter / AirRaid MIT / MagnaFlow 2.25" Dual Exhaust / HyperTech MaxEnergy
06-03-2011, 12:57 PM #3
If you have a dead blow hammer you can hit the rotor with that to try and knock it loose. or look on the front of the rotor near the lugs. If there is a threaded hole (or two) you need to find a bolt that will fit in there. this is put in some rotors to help with removal. you thread the bolt in with a socket and alternate holes to push the rotor off. Not sure if it will be on your rotor or not but that is one method. After that you may be able to heat it where it sits on the hub and eventually work it off with a dead blow hammer or the bolt method.David
2004 Silverado 2500 Crew Cab 4x4, AMSOIL EA air filter, Granatelli MAF sensor, Throttle body spacer, Magnaflow exhaust (true dual to 2 in 1 out muffler), 6" ProComp lift (add a leaf and 5" superlift rear block), Bilstein shocks, 35's (Cooper Disoverer ST) and 4.10 gears, Rhino Liner, EGRUSA fender Flares and widow visors, extended stainless steel brake lines, firestone airbags w/onboard air compressor, Pioneer Avic X940BT navigation, Accel backup camera.
1960 Land Rover Series II 88
2002 Nissan Altima (My Commuter)
2013 Toyota Avalon Limited (Wife's Car)
NRA Life Member
06-03-2011, 01:24 PM #4
- Join Date
- Feb 2007
- Blog Entries
The rotor shouldn't be that hard to take off. Assuming you took the center spindle nut off, the rotor should virtually fall off. A hammer can help, but I don't think it should be neccesary.Christopher
1991 Chevy Suburban 1/2 ton 2WD w/ chevy SBC 350-3/4 ton drivetrain upgrade w/4.10 gears 199K miles
2005 Saturn ION-2 Stock 255K miles
1982 Bronco, 1993 Bronco (sold), 1971 M35A2 Deuce and a Half
There are 10 kinds of people, those who understand binary, and those who dont...
Remember kids, the only difference between screwing around and science is writing it down- Adam Savage
06-03-2011, 01:33 PM #5
You may try this trick. i've never seen it done, but it looks workable.
06-03-2011, 07:50 PM #6
You shouldn't have to remove your spindle nut as long as it is 4wd. I believe all 2500 and 1500 newer chevys use hat style rotors. If you are replacing the rotors get a big ball peen hammer and hit the corner of the rotor near the studs all the way around. Be sure not to hit the studs. Good Luck.
By Turpinator in forum General Chevy & GM Tech QuestionsReplies: 0Last Post: 03-29-2011, 09:29 PM
By scgamer_99 in forum Chevy Suburban Forum (GMC Yukon XL)Replies: 3Last Post: 03-18-2009, 08:51 PM
By gpetresky in forum GM PowertrainReplies: 1Last Post: 12-18-2008, 10:28 PM
By Kraziken in forum Chevy Suburban Forum (GMC Yukon XL)Replies: 3Last Post: 01-07-2008, 09:39 PM
By eb2143 in forum GM PowertrainReplies: 0Last Post: 01-02-2008, 07:08 PM