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  1. #1
    Sr. Apprentice
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    Vancouver, WA
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    Default Oil pump swap 03 2500HD

    Well gentlemen
    Tragically i started my truck to 0 oil pressure, shut it down, only stated it to confirm the lifters were knocking (too confirm it wasn't just a bad pressure sensor) had it towed the to dealership so i could get the experts opinion. 100 dollars later they to told me it was possibly an oil pump....
    I got a new pump, i have a good tool set and rented a torque wrench.

    big question can i do this myself?

    is there anyone who know where i can find a tutorial on how this is done? apparently Chiltons doesn't make a manual for "heavy duty" models....

    let me know fellas,
    Thanks
    Cameron

    ---------- Post added at 05:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:53 PM ----------

    oh also with was about 300 miles into a fresh oil change with royal purple, and a quart of Lucas (the new kind with a the black label) as soon as a changed it the oil pressure dropped slightly
    2003 Silverado 2500HD
    Specter cold air
    Toyo AT's
    1972 Chevelle (project)

  2. #2

    Default

    Is your truck gas or diesel?
    :cool:

    2005 Chevy Silverado Z71 Crew Cab
    6" Skyjacker lift w/Edlebrock dual front remote resoviour shocks, single rear remote. Rancho skid-plate.
    17" x 9" M/T Classic Lock Wheels, 35" BFG A/T or M/T tires
    4.10 PercisionGears w/factory locker, T/A Performance rear-end cover
    Banks CAI intake, ported throttlebody, JBA coated headers, over-sized Magnaflow cats, Magnaflow cat back exhaust, Diablo tuned
    B&M aluminum deep transmission pan
    Warn brush guard w/Warn 9.5 XP winch, PIAA bulbs, Line-X bedliner, AWS Black tool chest, Extang tonneau cover
    Weather Tech floor mats
    Cover-Craft seat covers
    Dash mat cover
    Formula One window tint
    One black Lab in rear seat.
    :glasses:

  3. #3
    Sr. Apprentice
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    Jan 2011
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    Vancouver, WA
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    Default

    Gas, 6.0l unfortunately wish I had a duramax lol

  4. #4

    Default

    I'm not sure of all the intricate details of the 6.0, but undoubtedly the oil pump is on the bottom of the engine in the oil pan. To get the oil pan off, you're going to have to lift the engine some off its motor mounts. To give clearance to get the motor high enough, the distributor and other parts may have to be removed.

    In summary, the actual swap of the pump is easy and can be done in probably 30 minutes, but getting access to be able to do the pump swap is going to take a considerable amount of time. Be sure to allot at least a full day of work to get this done, possibly 2 depending on what issues you encounter along the way.
    Christopher

    1991 Chevy Suburban 1/2 ton 2WD w/ chevy SBC 350-3/4 ton drivetrain upgrade w/4.10 gears 200K miles
    2005 Saturn ION-2 Stock 265K miles
    1982 Bronco, 1993 Bronco (sold), 1971 M35A2 Deuce and a Half



    There are 10 kinds of people, those who understand binary, and those who dont...

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  5. #5
    Sr. Apprentice
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    Jan 2011
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    Vancouver, WA
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    Default

    that what i was a afraid of, I've never pulled a motor before, think ill just take whats left of my last check from the marine corps and pay to have it done right. i found a guy who said he'd do it for 600 in labor.
    thanks for the advice guys


  6. #6

    Default

    Sounds kinda high to me, for that price I would look at a shop where you will have a warranty.

  7. #7

    Default

    On the LS type engines, including the 4.8,5.3 and 6.0 the oil pump is crankshaft driven and is mounted on the front of the motor. You have to take the front off the motor and then jack up the motor to remove the oil pan so you can remove the sump from the oil pump. Theres a o-ring that seals the sump to the pump, make sure you replace this o-ring and don't chip/cut it when reinstalling back into the pump. That most likely is why you got a $600.00 labor estimate.

  8. #8
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    stephan's Avatar
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    Far West, Oregon USA,
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bigg Ron View Post
    Sounds kinda high to me, for that price I would look at a shop where you will have a warranty.
    X2, that's waaaaaay high Marineredn. I'd shop around for some more estiments if you're not going to try it yourself. Seriously it's not that big a job. You made it through Marine Corps boot camp, you can do this You don't have to pull the engine, just raise the front about 2 to 3 inches so you can get the pan off, & there are plenty of members here that will help walk you through it. If it's a non LS I'll help you & if it's an LS engine I think STB has probably done about a hundred of those

    Thanks for your service!!
    1988 Chevy C-3500 2wd (no pic)
    350 c.i. 5.7 L Stock Block, 4 Bolt Mains
    L-31 Vortec Heads, Edelbrock Cam & Intake,
    Holley 650, Flowtech Headers, Magnaflow exh.
    Jet Trans 700R4, B&M Ratchet, 4:10 gears,
    3" susp. lift kit "shadetree"
    No rev limiter, No speed limiter lol


  9. #9

    Thumbs up

    If its a '03 stephan than its a LS type motor. You have to remove the pulleys, cam cover/water pump front cover to get to the oil pump. When you reinstall the pump it MUST be centered on the crankshaft pulley. Theres a special tool for this or some guys use two 0.002" feeler gauges.

    ---------- Post added at 09:16 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:05 PM ----------

    If your thinking about a cam swap, nows the time. The cam and crank sprokets will be exposed. The intake manifold doesn't have to be removed, just the valve covers. DO IT!!!!!

  10. #10
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bigg Ron View Post
    Sounds kinda high to me, for that price I would look at a shop where you will have a warranty.
    i stated that wrong he owns a shop and is willing to put a warranty on it, but yeah gonna try to do it myself

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