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07-20-2011, 03:38 PM #1
So I snapped the bolt reinstalling the harmonic balancer...now what?!?
Even though I read when I shouldn't be using the bolt and washer to reinstall my balancer, I was also reading where some had did it with success. I know when I swapped the engine a while back, I did it that way, but it didn't work so much this time.
Snapped the bolt right on off in there. It's only in about 1/4 - 1/2" and it's not flush with anything. My wife is bringing a balancer puller/installer, new bolt, and bolt removing tools home for me.
Any suggestions other than being taken out behind he wood shed and beat???
On a serious note though, what's gonna be the best way to keep the motor from trying to turn over when I'm reinstalling the balancer? I used a screwdriver to lock up the plate, but I wasn't real comfortable doing that.
Also, with so much pressure having to be used to seat the balancer, how will I know when it's far enough?
Thanks for the help and I will take everything ya'll throw at me!!!
Last edited by Crazeetxn; 07-20-2011 at 04:34 PM.TNT - Texas
First - '68 longbed (lady runs stop sign, insurance gives me a check)
Then - '81 SWB (stupid stupid stupid...sold it thinking I was going to get something else)
Now - Finally got my '86 (350, Holley 600, 700r4)
07-20-2011, 06:15 PM #2
Well, 20 lashes with a cat o' nine tails for you. I've done those with a grade 8 bolt before with no problems, but you have to keep adding washers as you pull the damper farther on or you'll bottom the bolt out. If you bottomed it out to the point of breaking the bolt, then it's going to be a biotch to get out. As for locking the engine when you install it, is the engine in or out of the vehicle? If it's in the truck, put it in gear if it's a manual trans & set the E brake. If an automatic, put it in park & set the E brake. If it's on an engine stand, there's a tool you can buy, borrow, or rent to lock the flywheel or flexplate. Have your wife pick one up when she's getting your other parts, or use the screwdriver & bolt method you were using before. As long as you're not bending the flex plate to the point of warping it permanently, or cracking it, & not breaking the teeth off you'll be fine1988 Chevy C-3500 2wd (no pic)
350 c.i. 5.7 L Stock Block, 4 Bolt Mains
L-31 Vortec Heads, Edelbrock Cam & Intake,
Holley 650, Flowtech Headers, Magnaflow exh.
Jet Trans 700R4, B&M Ratchet, 4:10 gears,
3" susp. lift kit "shadetree"
No rev limiter, No speed limiter lol
07-20-2011, 06:27 PM #3
yeah, that was my next thought...how far down the threads go. Good chance it's bottom'd out. Guess that's where I went wrong. Didn't know it had hit the end of the road before I kept going. And yes, it was the grade 8 bolt I snapped. Using it and the thick washer for the pulley.
Engine is still in the truck so I reckon I'll stick to my screwdriver through the flex plate method.
Had to take the radiator and a/c coil out to get a good look at it. That's how this whole thing started anyhow. Was just supposed to fix the a/c, but figured since I had the time, might as well fix the oil leak. Yeah, good idea...
Last edited by Crazeetxn; 07-20-2011 at 06:31 PM.
07-20-2011, 06:33 PM #4
Those balancers go on pretty easy if there are no burrs on the crank or inside the damper, & as long as the key is aligned. If there's any rust inside the damper clean it off first. Also put a light coating of oil on both & it will go on a lot easier.
07-20-2011, 08:19 PM #5
Now I'm getting worried. Wife got home with the proper tools. Started out using a #3 bolt remover, but no luck. Moved up to the #4 (7/16 - 9/16). Drill won't torque enough to get it. Should I heat the stud up or put the flame inside the hole or not even put a flame around it? Don't know how much I have left before I yank the shaft out and take it somewhere.
07-20-2011, 11:39 PM #6
No, don't heat it. It won't do any good & might be worse cuz the bolt has less mass than the crank & it will suck up the heat & expand it & just get tighter. What's holding it is that it's bottomed out (I think) & the pressure of being tightened into the back of the hole is part of what's holding it, plus the pressure on the threads. I'd just keep trying, but I don't think the drill's going to work if it doesn't have enough torque. I'd use a wrench if there's a square lug on the end of it, or try vice grips. You have to exceed the pressure coming out that you put on it going in. One more thing you might try is taking a regular drill bit (same size as the hole you already drilled, don't go any bigger) & drill to the end of the bolt. It will drill easy & you will know when you get to the end of it cuz the crank is hardened & won't drill worth a damn. If you drill the length of the bolt this will eliminate some of the end pressure where it's jammed into the end of the crank snout, then you just have to deal with the force on the threads. This won't be a big gain, but it might help relieve a little pressure on it.
07-21-2011, 07:09 AM #7
I'll do some more drilling today. Good info because I was worried that I might get into the crank. Was tired and frustrated last night and I know where that would've gotten me, so I knew it was time to quit. I'll keep trying with the bolt remover and worst case I'll drill it out and try and retap it.
Thanks for all the info!!!
07-21-2011, 09:01 AM #8
So after snapping the end off of one of the bolt removers, I was forced to go up a size. I appreciate the words of wisdom from Stephan about drill through the bolt. That was my biggest hang up because I didn't want to drill into the crank. Moved up a bit, drilled through it and started working the larger bolt remover through it. Sure enough, this is what I found!!!!
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