I have a 1992 Suburban K1500 with the th700r4 and the np241 transfer case. When i engauge the transfer case it takes a while to go into 4 wheel drive. After it goes into 4 wheel drive for a few seconds it jumps out for a few seconds than the 4 wheel drive kicks in again then stays there. Any one have thoughts on this?
1992 Suburban
1978 Camaro
[url]http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2325750



If this is the same as mine, 94 it is not a cable but a vacume switch, at least I think it is. I know there are kits to change it over to just a cable, the way it should be. These types have a lot of problems, mine was just replaced just before I bought it and it wasn’t cheep. Around $180 if I remember right, I found the recept in the glove box.
If I am wrong I’m sure someone will pipe in.
Technology is great, when it Works,
And one Big Pain in the Ass When it Doesn’t.
Detroit Iron Rules, All the Rest are Just Toys.
94 GMC Burban, 5.7L (350), 4X4, Auto
86 GMC Burban, 350, 2 WD, Auto
79 GMC pickup plow truck, 400, Full time 4X4, Auto
86 Pontiac Fiero SE, 2.8L, Auto, only mid engine American car
See a Pattern yet?
15 year GM assembly line worker.


GM uses a thermal actuator that does have troubles. When mine crapped out, the shop wanted around $300 to upgrade to a new harness/actuator. I just went to NAPA and bought the original design actuator for $80 and installed it myself in about 10 minutes. I figured the original one lasted 200k miles so I can afford to replace a few. The cable conversion is also a good idea, since it overcomes the temperature issues that affects the original design. Read an earlier post with a link to the posi-lock cable conversion.
Last edited by unplugged; 08-17-2007 at 09:28 AM. Reason: FYI
There is no way to happiness....happiness is the way.
High Desert SoCal
93 K1500 burb (personal) 350 AT 3" Lift 250K+
02 Honda Civic LX
Looking for a 1990's Miata for an engine swap
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