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  1. #1

    Default 2007 NBS tire shop says my ball joints are shot upper and lower only 76k miles

    So i have a 2007 nbs ext cab 2 wheel drive silverado. Went to get it aligned and they said nope you upper and lower ball joints are shot. Wierd my truck has 76k miles on it. So i took it to the chevy dealer which changes my oil every 20 days and says the ball joints are fine every time. They check them and say Yep they are bad 1300.00 and we will replace them. to pour salt in the wound they say this is normal and not un common.... my wifes dad has a classic 07 with 250k and has never touched the ball joints... Rant over

    I know i have to buy the upper control arms complete can i buy those and just lower bll joints rent the tool and do it myelf on a weekend..

    If so were can i get the parts online that will for sure fit

  2. #2


    I think I'd get a third opinion. Have you been greasing the balljionts. 76K does seem to be premature wear. I have almost 89,000 on my LIFTED '05 with oversize tires and still have factory balljoints.

    2005 Chevy Silverado Z71 Crew Cab
    6" Skyjacker lift w/Edlebrock dual front remote resoviour shocks, single rear remote. Rancho skid-plate.
    17" x 9" M/T Classic Lock Wheels, 35" BFG A/T or M/T tires
    4.10 PercisionGears w/factory locker, T/A Performance rear-end cover
    Banks CAI intake, ported throttlebody, JBA coated headers, over-sized Magnaflow cats, Magnaflow cat back exhaust, Diablo tuned
    B&M aluminum deep transmission pan
    Warn brush guard w/Warn 9.5 XP winch, PIAA bulbs, Line-X bedliner, AWS Black tool chest, Extang tonneau cover
    Weather Tech floor mats
    Cover-Craft seat covers
    Dash mat cover
    Formula One window tint
    One black Lab in rear seat.

  3. #3


    I checked them with the dealer they are bad.. i am the second owner i dont think the first owner kept up with maintance..

  4. #4


    If you have any mech. skills you can change them yourself and save alot of money. $1300.00 is way to much money to replace all the balljionts.

  5. #5


    What if any is the recommended interval to lube factory balljoints?

  6. #6


    I do mine every 3,000-4,000 miles.

  7. #7


    On my 07 the uppers are non servicable parts no grease inserts. But yeah i am just gonna change them my self this weekend. Bought them from a local autoparts store Lifetime warranty which beats the dealerships limited one year.

  8. #8


    so any ideas on how to press out the lower ball joint... i am assuming it presses out toward the ground.. but on top it ppears the factory flared the top of the ball joint or there is somekind of covr on it. i am at a loss here

    ---------- Post added at 02:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:41 PM ----------

    I am retarded i got it started then just used the hammer to get it the rest of the way.. I am glad the part store sold me the wrong size to go back in....

  9. #9
    Legend Bigbomber's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010


    Did you get them changed?Curious to know how the job went for you.
    [/SIGPIC]2009 Chevy Silverado LT 1500 EXT CAB 4X4 Vortec 4.8L SFI,K&N air filter,Weathertech Floor Liners ,Weathertech Stone/Bug Deflector, Line X Spray On Bedliner, TruXport Rollup Tonneau Cover, Molded Mudguards, Viper 5701 LE 2 way Security Alarm/Remote Starter, Xm Satelite Radio,BILSTEIN 5100 rear shocks,BILSTEIN 5100 front levelling shocks,READYLIFT 2" rear lift blocks,Goodyear Wrangler Territorys -265/70R 17"

  10. #10


    no not yet i had to overnight the correct ball joints from RA monday they will be here toady after tons of research it appears the NBS LT have aluminum lower control arms. Once u get the tire off and take the Brake line loose from the upper Control arm. You can then take out the 2 bolts holding the calliper on and let it rest on the lower control arm. I did have to use a Fork to lossen the lower Ball joint from the spindle. The upper i was able to just smack with a hammer to free it from the spindle. then u just let the hub asesm rest on the ground tie rod still attached. Used a file to cut back the factory ball joint as the flare 3 sides of them on the top and it will destroy the arm if you press it out and do not remove them before pressing it out. I got the lower start with the Ball joint press then just smacked it a couple times with a hammer and it came right out.

    Of course my truck is on a jack stands with a jack under the control arm taking up the spring pressure

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