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01-16-2012, 01:33 PM #21
---------- Post added at 12:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:33 PM ----------
Go-Recon "xtreme" amber scanning tail gate light strip, Cobra ultra2 CB radio W/ 4 foot firestix antennas, dual exhaust with 40 series single in dual out muffler, 305/65R17 Mickey Thomson Baja ATZ on 17 inch Mickey Thompson Side Biters, 3 inch body lift
"when the going gets tough the tough get cyclic:fighting0019:"
"use the force luke:fighting0040:"
01-16-2012, 03:41 PM #22
I've read good things about the Recon Diamond White series bulbs; I even looked at them. They're 4600K color temp if memory serves and I seem to recall they have a matching 4157 bulb (if you care about such things). They were a little too blue for my taste, which is why I went the route I did.
Last edited by SurrealOne; 01-16-2012 at 03:46 PM.
01-16-2012, 09:47 PM #23
02-01-2012, 03:49 PM #24
The main thing is people don't need to put HID's into stock headlight housings. Because they create too much glare and are not a steady beam which cause them to glare and blind people from the housing being just a big chrome reflector. The halo projector's i have work really well with HID's because they don't have any glare and is one steady beam. The hid's are 10,000k low beams and also had them aimed since i lifted the truck so actually i only have been flashed once compared to when i had my stock headlights with a halogen bulb i can't count how many times i was flashed. All in all it's a big deifference in the way it project's the light.
2008 Chevy Silverado Ext. Cab Lt Z71 5.3 V8
7.5 Inch Rough Country Suspension Lift
RBP Replica Grille Black w Chrome Rivets
Recon Smoked Cab Roof Lights
N-Fab Powdercoated Gloss black Cab Length Nerf Steps
5% Tint over 20% all the way around / 5% Eyebrow Strip
AVS Smoked Window Visors
Z71 Stickers Black & Metallic Silver
Tow Mirrors / Smoked Turn Signals
XM Satellite Radio Fin / Color Matched
Interior Plastic Pieces / Color Matched
Power Acoustic Tweeters
Painted Bowties / Color Matched
Painted Door Handles / Color Matched
Smittybilt Bull Bar / Color Matched
Custom Rolled Edge Exhaust Tips / Color Matched
Custom 2.5 Inch Cat Back True Dual Exhaust
Flowmaster Super 40 Series Dual in / Dual out
Magnaflow Tru-X Pipe
K&N Air Filter
18x9 Rockstars Machined Black
Center Caps / Color Matched
33.13.50 Nitto Terra Grapplers
New Front Wheel Well Liners
Eagle Eye Black L.E.D. Tailights
Eagle Eye Black L.E.D. Third Brake Light / Smoked
Eagle Eye Black L.E.D. Halo Projector Headlights
Notto HID Kit 10,000k Low beams
Recon L.E.D. Light Bar
Buschwacker OE Style Tailgate Cap
AMI Gloss Black Antenna
Debadged Chrome Lettering
Door Molding Removed
02-01-2012, 07:21 PM #25
Perhaps I can clear up some mud. First of surreal's research on HID modifications are very accurate. A major thing people don't realize about HID lights are the following
The ballast/transformer: cheaper kits do NOT come with variable transformers. Since most new trucks (03 and newer) have a multiplexed system we aren't getting 14.4 volts to the primary side of the step-up transformer. This makes the kit run inefficient and that creates heat which causes transformer/ballast failure. This is common in cheaper kits (35 bucks allthe way up to 200)
Bulb life and care: HID bulbs require a cool down period immediately after they are shut down. Bulbs break down very quickly if they aren't aloud this cool down time. They NEED this cool down time even if they only come on for a few seconds or LESS. Think about how your truck starts, key in the ignition, turn to crank (lights come on) crank (lights cut out for a second) car starts (lights turn back on). That process is very destructive to the bulb hence the one head light wonders you see driving around. Do not make the mistake of thinking that because the bulb did not get hot to the touch that it doesn't need any cool down time.
Kelvin: the measure of a lights color temperature. Kelvins are in ALL lights, no just HIDs. 2700k represents the "warmest" light temps (red, orange, yellow). 5500 to 6000 represent a sunny bright afternoon (this does NOT mean the light is best emulating daylight). 10,000-12,000 represents the most "cool" color, blues and purples.
CRI (color rendering index): this is a scale measured from 0% to 100%. 0% is the furthest away from natural daylight, 100% is closest to natural daylight.
A myth: you can vastly increase light output by ONLY making expensive upgrades to your factory headlights. This is a myth, it is nearly IMPOSSIBLE to increase light performance by only making modifications to your factory lights. Auxiliary lights were designed and manufactured for this purpose. Even retro-fit HID kits rarely create better and brighter light output.
Last edited by zigger215; 02-01-2012 at 07:24 PM.
02-06-2012, 08:54 AM #26
- Join Date
- Dec 2010
The thing I don't understand is why folks pick higher color temps. The human eye works best at temps close to the sun's own color, after all that's as natural as you can get. 10,000K temps just make our eyes work harder, and cast more shadows. Not really good for driving at night when we are most likely more tired and have trouble seeing anyway. I wouldn't pick anything higher than 5,000K. But, to each his own I guess.
02-06-2012, 12:15 PM #27
I understand what your saying but 10,000k low beam hid's in projectors are not bright it's a solid beam and it does not have a dark blue tint or anything looks about like a blue halogen bulb but just better focus and aiming. If your running anything over 10,000k which was what i was told to run in mine and not 15,000k and up which are like dark purple dark blue. That is too much to run in any setup but everybody has there preferences but anyone would tell you almost people running over 10k lights are just some retards in my book.
02-06-2012, 12:31 PM #28
When we design lighting systems for maximum light output we stay right at 6,000k. That is the color temperature closest to the brightest afternoon at the brightest time of day. 10,000 is closer to blue and very dark. 15,000 is ridiculous.
02-06-2012, 02:19 PM #29
Well allot of different name brand hid's the color output is different mine are like a crystal blue you can barely tell the difference in that and the stock bulb's. Either way if you have projectors compared to stock housing you can control the light output more and make it more steadily aimed without having it scatter since it doesn't rely on reflectors to direct light. I have only got flashed once with my projectors and hid's compared to my halogen bulb's around 6,000k in my stock headlight i would get flashed almost every other night for some reason. All in all it's about your setup you have that determines the quality of light in my opinion.
02-06-2012, 02:27 PM #30
Well kelvin temperature is an absolute. It is a fixed scale so it doesn't make sense for one companies light temperature to differ from another companies. As for light output, of the hundreds of lights I've modified and other installers have modified at the shops I've installed at, I've never seen increased light output from just modifying the factory headlights, even doing projectors, even doing retro kits.
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