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  1. #51


    Sylvania Silverstar Ultras are rated at a colour temperature of 4100K, so they are pretty darn white for a halogen bulb. I've not used them and have read mixed reviews on them; people running them seem to like the quality and colour of the light but complain about them burning out quickly. Your mileage may vary...

    ---------- Post added at 11:21 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:05 AM ----------

    I stumbled across this, today. Check the flare-up of glare from the HIDs between 0:16 and 0:17...

  2. #52


    Thanks for your research Surreal, this has made up my mind for me. For now, light bulbs only. Do you have a write up on the diode mod? Also, does it have mod for high/low on at same time? Thanks again for the information.
    Mike - Monroe, Michigan
    2004 Suburban LT K1500 5.3 Vortec
    6000K low/high beam bulbs
    6000K Fogs
    LED exterior accessory lighting upgrade
    LED Taillights
    5Watt LED back up bulbs with projector lenses

  3. #53


    Here's the link to the diode conversion thread for NBS (99-06+07classic) vehicles: Note that you don't have to do all of the diodes shown; simply pick/choose which ones you want. Example: If you don't want to do the diode that keeps DRLs on with low beams, skip that one.

    Thanks to some research by @reggiecab2000 it's come to my attention that an aftermarket Chevy HIT headlight kit exists. The Sylvania Xenarc X2020 Chevy HID kit is a drop-in kit that works for 99-02 Chevy Silverados and 00-06 Chevy Tahoes and Suburbans. It's apparently a plug and play kit that has the ballast mounted to the back side of the headlight assembly. As of this writing the following vendor has it:

  4. #54


    Surreal, as usual, your post is a huge help to me. I've been interested in HIDs. Partly for form, but mostly for function. I live in an area that requires about 10-15 minutes of driving on roads that have no lights coming or going. Granted, my lights are a whole lot better than what was on my wife's old Durango. (It finally died.) We also have a lot of deer in the area and I've seen first hand what a buck can do to a car. However, with my current list of things I want to do to my truck, a retro-fit is going to be far down the list. I'll see what I can safely do to enhance vision, but it won't be HIDs for right now.

    To Be Completed (Eventually):
    6" BDS Suspension lift | KingShocks Front and Rear Coil Overs | 4.56 Gears | 35" A/Ts (TBD) | Cervinis 07-12 Silverado Ram Air Hood | Fab Fours Front Winch Bumper (CS07-H2051-1) | Fab Fours Full Size Rear Bumper (CS07-W1850-1) | RX-2 Series Main Grille (Black) | Line-x Bed and wheel wells | Skid Plates | Rizor Automated Tonneau Cover | Custom Bed Insert | RBP RX-3 Series Nerf Bars | Kenwood Excelon DNX9990HD | JL Audio Stealthbox (2x500RMS) | JL Audio HD 1200/1 Class D Mono Amp | JL Audio C5-653 Components (Front) | JL Audio C5-650 Components (Rear) | JL Audio Slash v2 300/4v2 Class A/B Amp

  5. #55


    Awesome thread I've been tremendously enlightened. I have changed plans for my truck. Thanks surrealone for the research and thanks amac for the thread heads up.

    2011 GMC SIERRA CREW CAB 2WD W/5.3

    Convenience Package
    : Adjustable Pedals, Remote Start, Electric Rear Window Defogger, Rear Parking Assist

    Power Tech. Package| Volant CAI| GMC Upgraded Grill| Line-X Premium Bedliner| AVS Smoke Headlight Covers| Demolded| AMI Black Grill Emblem| AMI Black Rear Emblem| EGR In-Channel Window Visors| IPCW Third Brake Light| IPCW LED Fiber Optic Tail Lights| IJDM Dome & License Plate LED's| Flowmaster Exhaust W/ 3" Black Chrome Tips| OEM 20" Rims W/ Goodyear Eagle LS2

    You can't get away from the STORM!

  6. #56


    I don't see very good and night every car I own has hids in them. I have them properly aligned and it doesn't bother anyone. I rebuild my headlight harness with heavy duty wire in my silverado. They look the same as my moms Benz
    2009 chevy 1500 z71 4x4
    2.5 ccm level,2.5 inch rear blocks 305/60/18 coopers stt,Debadged,10 series flow w/dual exit in front or right rear tire, KN CAI, diablo InTune, 18% tint all the way around ,spec-d euro headlights with black housings,winjet smoke LED tail lights,putco LED third brake light smoked, fab fours front bumper with 10k warn winch, RK sports ram air hood
    1965 c10 swb, zz4 350 with the hot cam and fast burn heads and a 780 Holley on top, richmond super street 5 speed,restorod

  7. #57


    Quote Originally Posted by ahmitchell1 View Post
    I don't see very good and night every car I own has hids in them. I have them properly aligned and it doesn't bother anyone. I rebuild my headlight harness with heavy duty wire in my silverado. They look the same as my moms Benz
    Can you pass inspection in ALL (not just some, but all) jurisdictions? (Remember, as you pass through other localities and states you're subject to their local laws.) Also, how do you know you don't bother anyone? (Just because people didn't flash you didn't mean you didn't bother someone, so how are you 100% positive you've bothered no one?)

    These questions are asked not to attack you or to suggest you're doing anything wrong, but to pose fair, valid rhethorical questions to you for consideration.

  8. #58


    I was reading about people using diodes to chain lights and functionality together. Diodes drop voltage by 9/10 of a volt. that doesn't sound like an awful lot, but it makes a really big difference in terms of the brightness of the light. It also adds life to the bulbs to have them burning at the correct voltage. Another way to consider is to use dioded wires as control wires for relays.

    I ALWAYS add relays just before each headlight on EVERY vehicle I have had. The difference is definitely noteworthy. the reason being is that in today's cars and trucks, the wire to the headlights is of a smaller gauge and conductors are made from an alloy, rather than solid copper. When testing the voltage at the headlight connector, I generally see 12.3 to 12.6V at the connector with the vehicle running and the alternator supplying 13.8V. After adding in a diode, that will drop to 11.4 to 11.7 volts under load.

    If you were to use a relay to power the headlights, and your diodes in the control wiring to trigger the relays, you would get the full output of the battery and alternator voltage delivered to each light in the chain without loading up the harness wiring and headlight switch... MAJOR difference!

    On my van, I only did the low beams at first because I only had 2 relays. (I like to use a relay per light incase one fails) My low beams were brighter and whiter than my high beams until I completed the job.
    Last edited by moogvo; 05-03-2012 at 09:53 AM.
    "It went together didn't it? Well then there has to be a way to take it apart!" - Me.

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  9. #59


    Good stuff, Moogvo!

  10. #60


    Thanks Surreal! If anyone is interested, I can draw up a diagram. It really is simple. I am not sure why GM didn't relay the headlights to begin with.

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