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  1. #1

    Default Stabilizer bar end link- how the heck do I get it off? Grease CV axle spline?

    My right side CV axle needs replaced and I have everything apart but can't slide it out due to clearance between shock and stabilizer bar end link. When I went to take the end link off there is an access hole in the lower control arm to the bottom of the bolt. The only problem is that I can't get my deep wall socket in there due to angle of the end link bolt (it's not straight up and down). How am I supposed to get that off? Would I be better off removing the shock?
    Also, I had to apply heat to the axle nut to get it off. It looks like there is bearing grease in the hub area. In other posts regarding removal of CV axle I haven't seen anyone mention replacing this grease (or is just the grease that leaked out from my CV axle boot?). Should I clean with solvent and pack with some bearing grease?
    Thanks for any help!
    FF6
    Current Rides: |99 Chevy Suburban- the family truckster |93 Lincoln Town Car- 250K miles & still churning -now a fan of the Panther platform
    Former GM cars: |78 Suburban 454 |71 Buick Electra 225 (deuce & a quarter) |75 Monte Carlo- 400SB- heaviest doors GM every made |70 Impala coupe- my 1st car

  2. #2

    Default

    I think your end link is at a angle because you have the front jacked up and the tire off letting the lower control arm and bar droop. Try jacking up the lower control arm a little to get the pressure of the sway bar end link. No you don't need to grease the axle hub. I do put anti-seize on so if I have to remove again.
    :cool:

    2005 Chevy Silverado Z71 Crew Cab
    6" Skyjacker lift w/Edlebrock dual front remote resoviour shocks, single rear remote. Rancho skid-plate.
    17" x 9" M/T Classic Lock Wheels, 35" BFG A/T or M/T tires
    4.10 PercisionGears w/factory locker, T/A Performance rear-end cover
    Banks CAI intake, ported throttlebody, JBA coated headers, over-sized Magnaflow cats, Magnaflow cat back exhaust, Diablo tuned
    B&M aluminum deep transmission pan
    Warn brush guard w/Warn 9.5 XP winch, PIAA bulbs, Line-X bedliner, AWS Black tool chest, Extang tonneau cover
    Weather Tech floor mats
    Cover-Craft seat covers
    Dash mat cover
    Formula One window tint
    One black Lab in rear seat.
    :glasses:

  3. #3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by silveradotrailblazer View Post
    I think your end link is at a angle because you have the front jacked up and the tire off letting the lower control arm and bar droop. Try jacking up the lower control arm a little to get the pressure of the sway bar end link. No you don't need to grease the axle hub. I do put anti-seize on so if I have to remove again.
    I did put the wheel back on and lowered the vehicle, but I still couldn't get a socket on it. I'll try using a jack under the control arm to straighten it out. Is it possible that a bushing has slipped partially through the lower control arm hole, causing that angle? As a last resort would I want to cut that link in 1/2 and remove it in pieces? Ugghh seems whenever I'm working on this thing there's always some wrinkle that makes it take longer than it should!
    Current Rides: |99 Chevy Suburban- the family truckster |93 Lincoln Town Car- 250K miles & still churning -now a fan of the Panther platform
    Former GM cars: |78 Suburban 454 |71 Buick Electra 225 (deuce & a quarter) |75 Monte Carlo- 400SB- heaviest doors GM every made |70 Impala coupe- my 1st car

  4. #4

    Default

    It could be that the bushings are worn, but try jacking up the control arm to take pressure of it.
    :cool:

    2005 Chevy Silverado Z71 Crew Cab
    6" Skyjacker lift w/Edlebrock dual front remote resoviour shocks, single rear remote. Rancho skid-plate.
    17" x 9" M/T Classic Lock Wheels, 35" BFG A/T or M/T tires
    4.10 PercisionGears w/factory locker, T/A Performance rear-end cover
    Banks CAI intake, ported throttlebody, JBA coated headers, over-sized Magnaflow cats, Magnaflow cat back exhaust, Diablo tuned
    B&M aluminum deep transmission pan
    Warn brush guard w/Warn 9.5 XP winch, PIAA bulbs, Line-X bedliner, AWS Black tool chest, Extang tonneau cover
    Weather Tech floor mats
    Cover-Craft seat covers
    Dash mat cover
    Formula One window tint
    One black Lab in rear seat.
    :glasses:

  5. #5

    Default

    After messing around with the end link for a while longer I decided to remove the shock and it went fine from that point.
    I don't think the end link bolt was going to come out without removing the upper control arm- it was blocking the bolt. Additionally the small access hole in the lower control arm to get to the nut made it difficult to take that off. It took way too long!

    Additional comments/questions:
    I had been hearing a "ticking" noise with wheel speed (especially noticeable @ low speeds) for a while. It seems that the noise is significantly softer, but is still there. I'm thinking the other CV axle is probably about to go out. Is there a sure-fire way to determine the integrity of the CV?

    When I pulled my old CV axle out it had a metal dust shield that fit against the inside of the hub, my remanufactured one didn't. There appears to be a very small gap between the cv axle and the inside of the hub. Is this a problem?

    At least its drivable now- being down to one car for a family of 6 with kids in sports is no fun!

    FF6

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