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11-27-2011, 06:56 AM #1
Four 12's, Two 10's, HomeMade Mechless Kenwood KDC348U, 2006 Stretch Cab/ 22 Speakers
Not your usual way of doing things...I gotta be me. I just finished my "about every 3 years" stereo re-do, Fall 2011.
The main box is 5.3 cu. ft, single-chamber. The box has a blockable 30Hz Helmholtz resonator port; I prefer the sealed, lower-frequency sound over all-out SPL. Speakers in this box are four Hifonics 12D4 DVC 12-inch woofers. Each speaker has its voice coils wired in series (8 Ohms) then paired with a mate in parallel (4 Ohms).
The Aux Box is made from a Sonotube concrete form, and holds two Kicker 10" speakers. One is a Comp model, the other an Impulse, and each one gets 1.43 cu. ft., sealed. The smaller tube is 4" ABS, and holds 4" Kicker DS40's with the tweeters removed (to make them less bright). I'd put these in to get my speaker wiring to the correct impedance for my amplifier (4 Ohms), but their placement here really does a lot for imaging. In the top pic are visible,
two 5'25" Kickers in the ceiling console, these mate up with 6" Kickers in all doors, and four more added Kicker tweeters in various locations.
Twinned Crunch GPV1100.2 Ground Pounder amplifiers drive the system, cutoff frequency is about 100Hz. Only the gut-shuddering lows go to the two banks of subwoofers, and it can really sneak up on you with some music selections. "Pretty" is not usually on my build criteria, but at least I tried to match the interior this time with vinyl and grey carpeting. In this shot, you see a steel woofer grille covered in carpeting. My dogs didn't like riding in the back (I wonder why), so I just put two other woofers there later on.
My DIY Mechless (hacked a fresh-out-of-the-box new one) Kenwood KDC-348U came with a remote control, and I hacked it, too. The remote's PCB is under the passenger seat along with the Kenwood's main chassis.
Computer drive cabling is used to make the connections between head and formerly-removeable faceplate.
Standard IDC (Insulation Displacement Connector) connections allow future servicing or dis assembly.
I built my own interface cabling: if the Kenwood is switched on, the amplifiers and speakers automatically connect to it instead of the factory stereo (still in place). Also, 3v power is provided to run the remote's PCB, see below for why.
With the stereo above the rear-view mirror, I need handier access to the volume control. Using the guts from the factory wireless remote, I added volume buttons to the stock radio bezel/surround.Nothing hits the garbage intact.
11-27-2011, 07:37 AM #2
Two momentary button switches were robbed from a toy helicopter transmitter, and an epoxy putty mount for their custom PCB was mixed up (literally!).
I soldered wires to these PCB vias after scraping them clean. More PC drive cabling was used for this and the 3volts power lead-in from an off-the-shelf 12vdc converter. The output IR diode was also placed on leads,
and ended up here.
The volume up/down buttons are right next to the factory radio. If you forget which one you're listening to, you don't have to move your fingers very far.
My center console is built higher for a reason, it allows my arm to rest on it, my hand on the shift lever, index finger between the buttons. I play with the volume constantly when I'm driving.
The "Helicopter toggle" here, instantly kills the amplifiers if I Spot A Cop While Rocking. The ribbed Chevy Bow-tie just brightens the interior. The port for the lower bass box is under the console, to reduce port-noise when it's uncapped.
But I've kept it capped, preferring the low thud a sealed box gives.
Heavy-duty power leads, doubled. Four matching Crankin' Power distribution blocks feed each amp with two 10gauge wires. At the bottom of the shot is the control center for the ceiling console's toggle and push-pull switch clusters. I can add all kinds of accessories, and flip them on/off from the roof location.
The truck has over 8,000feet of added 16ga wire (most of it in old-school cable lacing like this) for current and future speaker use-
each front door has wires for three more speakers that are not there, for example.
11-27-2011, 10:26 AM #3
thats sick.....im pretty sure what little hearing i have left would be gone after listening to that hitGo-Recon "xtreme" amber scanning tail gate light strip, Cobra ultra2 CB radio W/ 4 foot firestix antennas, dual exhaust with 40 series single in dual out muffler, 305/65R17 Mickey Thomson Baja ATZ on 17 inch Mickey Thompson Side Biters, 3 inch body lift
"when the going gets tough the tough get cyclic:fighting0019:"
"use the force luke:fighting0040:"
11-27-2011, 10:51 AM #4
No tinnitus- I'm careful not to listen LOUD. It's powerful at normal levels, with lots of low-bass energy, which is much less damaging to the ears. I don't listen to the Death Burp stuff the young folks do (I'm pushing 50 in March). But you are correct, you could hurt yourself for life with one listening session if you persisted.
11-27-2011, 11:26 AM #5
tinnitus sucks......my ears are ringing all the time, its a sick set up you have my first thought was i hope he never needs to use the back seat lol, do you do competitions with it?
11-27-2011, 11:27 AM #6
- Join Date
- May 2010
- Blog Entries
This is awesome man! How long did it take you to do all this?? I really like the remote diy radio. I've never seen that done!
2006 Duramax LBZ
4'' Diamond eye to 6'' tip
16'' ion alloy, 33'' fierce attitudes
Lots of work left to do!
11-27-2011, 11:45 AM #7
I don't compete, I'm retired, never had kids (don't need back seats for anything) and the truck is a glorified grocery-getter at best. I usually keep the volume this side of legal, so my ears are pretty safe.
I spent about three weeks doing everything up. The mod to the head unit was done in a few hours, I used to cut them up for my Honda GoldWings.
11-27-2011, 12:50 PM #8
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Yelm, WA
- Blog Entries
WOW! Truly impressed, used to be real big into stereo installs years ago, and other than some bed mounted installs, nothing even close to what you did here. My fave has gotta be the receiver hack, that is really cool!
2007 Silverado 1500 LT Ext Cab 4.8l, 2007 Suzuki XL-7, 2012 H-D Sportster "Seventy-Two"
11-28-2011, 05:14 PM #9
- Join Date
- May 2010
- Blog Entries
Hey I've got a question for you killbucket. I need a new amp. I've got two pioneer premier 12'' that are 1500 max and 500 rms. I've always gotten mono block amps but should I get a two channel or stick with a mono block and what size do you recommend? I want to be able to push them to their max if I want to but I probably never will. They are in a sealed box.
11-28-2011, 06:53 PM #10
I'm no authority in this area, by a long measure...Mono is going to be the most efficient. Unless you want the bass also stereo, not much reason (other than the amp's capabilities) to use more than one channel.
Me, I'm paranoid I'll miss something, so my bass is all stereo. With a rear sound-stage (I like the old-school, 6x9 thinking and sound), you can really tell when something's only on one side.
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