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  1. #1

    Default To Sell or not to sell the truck, that is the question...need some advice!

    Ok guys and gals, need some solid advice, because I am seriously on the fence about this.

    Secenario:

    I own a 2005 Silverado K1500 (non z71) with tow package, and the 5.3L V8, 46k miles, paid in full (have title) 100% bone stock otherwise --- Relevant details.

    I have a 6x10 vnosed enclosed trailer, single axel, no brake assist that I tow, with three "crotch rocket" race bikes in it (not drag bikes) and supporting gear. Don't know the exact figures on weight. However, I am looking to upgrade, so I can haul one more bike and one more person, making trips to the track less expensive in transportation costs.

    Upgraded trailer: 7x16 vnosed enclosed trailer, dual axle, with brakes. It will house 4 bikes average weight around 400# a bike, plus tons of supporting gear.

    Decision/Quesiton:

    Now decision is to sell the current rig, and buy a diesel, to facilitate towing upgraded trailer <OR> I could add airbags to the rear of my truck and an upgraded transmission cooler, and some new tires/wheels that are helpful in towing, like D rated tires and wider wheels.


    Thoughts:

    I am after EASE of hauling, I want to run 80 mph and not feel the trailer behind me, no matter the terrain. Also, people with the current rig and the upgraded trailer are averaging 8-10mpg with the 5.3L. People with the diesel are getting 15.8 miles per gallon. This is at assumed 65-75mph.


    Ok....GO...
    Last edited by Burnall4; 11-15-2011 at 07:01 PM.
    2005 Silverado k1500 - Daily driver and tow rig for the toys

    "Want to know what it feels like dragging your knee at 130mph around a long sweeper?...It's like having sex on the hood of your car going 80mph" - Dustin

  2. #2

    Default

    I pull a #4500 boat(dry weight) on a #1400 dual axle trailer.

    The boat holds 57 us. gal. of fuel and about #400 of gear

    I have a 2000 Silverado 1500, 4x4, 5.3L, Z71 with 3.73 gears and I get 8-10

    BUT....I rarely go over 60 when towing although the truck could do it. A friend of mine with a boat gets 18 mpg w/diesel but has a much higher maintenance cost and pays more for fuel, so he very seldom drives the truck if he isn't hauling. I wouldn't think you would need a diesel unless you were towing around 7k or had a huge wind brake behind you like a box trailer.(you say yours is wedge shaped)

    I think the real question is do you use the truck as a daily driver, if so how many miles a year, and what would the maintenance cost be for those miles, how much more would you pay in fuel for those miles, how much would your payment be (since you don't have one now) and how much is that ticket gonna cost since you can haul the load at 80 mph and is your insurance gonna go up if you get a couple tickets.

    Other things play a factor as well
    Like longevity and reliability of a diesel compared to a gasser, and are you going dually? if so thats 2 more tires to pay for

    personally if I could afford it I would keep the gasser for light work and daily driving and get the diesel for towing.

    Best of both worlds

    P.S. The boat only gets 2.8mpg depending on wind and current.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by tswiczko; 11-15-2011 at 10:04 PM.
    Hold my beer, Watch this!!!!

  3. #3

    Default

    Those are some interesting points to make, and good ones.

    Its not my daily, I have a company car, even though I find myself driving more in the truck then the car.

    Here is tailer similar to the one i am looking at: so fully loaded it would be around 5000#

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Never factored in the cost of maintenance for the diesel. Thought they were pretty much change the oil and forget it, and don't get water in the tank (gas)?!
    2005 Silverado k1500 - Daily driver and tow rig for the toys

    "Want to know what it feels like dragging your knee at 130mph around a long sweeper?...It's like having sex on the hood of your car going 80mph" - Dustin

  4. #4

    Default

    I just sold my diesel because I realized that a gas truck could pull everything I needed pull. Diesel's are nice don't get me wrong but they are maintenance queens. Fuel is higher, oil changes are expensive, fuel filters, batteries etc. If they break they will break the bank to fix. So my advice is to fix your truck up to pull what you need it to do. Plus its paid for. Just my. 02

  5. #5

    Default

    I usually don't reply to these kinds of questions -- there's just too much that goes into making such a decision, and not all of it comes down to $$.

    1st thing I'd suggest -- get a better feel for weight. It seems unlikely, but if the new setup has any chance of exceeding the tow capacity of your half-ton, then the rest of the discussion doesn't matter. If your half-ton is like mine, it should be rated (properly equipped of course) to tow upwards of 8000 or 10000 lbs.

    Then, I'd sit down with a spreadsheet (or a sheet of paper) and calculate how much net out of pocket it will cost to get the diesel versus fixing up the existing truck. Part of that cost goes towards "EASE of hauling, I want to run 80 mph and not feel the trailer behind me, no matter the terrain." How much is this worth ($500, $5000, $15000)? Then the rest of that cost goes towards "making trips to the track less expensive in transportation costs." At this point, if I expect to be $5000 in the hole, and I only need the truck 2ce a year so that it will take 20 years to recoup the initial outlay, I start shopping for someone to fix up my half-ton. If I need the truck 30 times a year, and it will only take 1-2 years to recoup costs, then I start shopping for a truck. It is hard to know where to draw the line in between. It does seem that 8 or 9 times out of 10, I will choose to keep the existing vehicle rather than replace it.

    Oh, and I do have to thank you for a little chuckle this morning. You said 80 mph no matter the terrain, and the image that popped into my head was you and that new truck pulling that trailer at 80 mph up one of those little dirt forest service roads leading to some of my favorite camping sites. Obviously not what you had in mind, but it did make me chuckle.
    '98 K1500 Suburban LS 5.7 L 4L60E NV246 ARB
    '92 Ford Explorer XLT 4x4 4.0 L A4LD BW13-54 Trac-loc rear
    "My toys were the greasy cogs and springs and pistons that lay around all over the place, and these, I can promise you, were far more fun to play with than most of the plastic rubbish children are given nowadays." Danny in Roald Dahl's Danny The Champion of the World

  6. #6

    Default

    I have to agree with what MrShorty said.
    :cool:

    2005 Chevy Silverado Z71 Crew Cab
    6" Skyjacker lift w/Edlebrock dual front remote resoviour shocks, single rear remote. Rancho skid-plate.
    17" x 9" M/T Classic Lock Wheels, 35" BFG A/T or M/T tires
    4.10 PercisionGears w/factory locker, T/A Performance rear-end cover
    Banks CAI intake, ported throttlebody, JBA coated headers, over-sized Magnaflow cats, Magnaflow cat back exhaust, Diablo tuned
    B&M aluminum deep transmission pan
    Warn brush guard w/Warn 9.5 XP winch, PIAA bulbs, Line-X bedliner, AWS Black tool chest, Extang tonneau cover
    Weather Tech floor mats
    Cover-Craft seat covers
    Dash mat cover
    Formula One window tint
    One black Lab in rear seat.
    :glasses:

  7. #7

    Default

    Yeah I agree with MrShorty. I am going to keep it. I think with the right airbags and weight distribution hitch I will be fine.

    Does anyone have a good wheel and tire combo, been doing a lot of research on the form and on the google. Looking for a 17 or 18 that is wider with the correct back spacing to have the wheels more flush with body. Allowing me to run a d rated tire, and not have to do a lift.

    I have the 17 inch chrome "Micky Thompson" looking stock Chevy wheels. The just aren't wide enough to sit flush with the body.
    2005 Silverado k1500 - Daily driver and tow rig for the toys

    "Want to know what it feels like dragging your knee at 130mph around a long sweeper?...It's like having sex on the hood of your car going 80mph" - Dustin

  8. #8
    Legend

    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    River Ridge Louisiana-4 miles W of New Orleans-didn't flood-water stopped 800 yards away.
    Posts
    1,612

    Default

    Wow

    "Ease of Towing" no question the Duramax- or the Ford or the Cummins win.
    Pure "Dollars and cents" then you current truck wins BY A LOT-probably by $20,000 or more over 5 years!!

    Pure Fun?? Well lotta folks love diesels, but in truth your 5.3 1/4 ton(what 315 hp or so??) is probably quicker to 60 mpg than the almost 400 hp 3/4 ton Duramax.

    Like others day-diesels are expensive to buy-and frequently PRETTY EXPENSIVE to maintain.
    This BS I hear about the diesels "lasting 3x as long as spark motors??""" BS-Many many many SBC 5.7 AND 5.3 get well over 200,000 miles with ZERO motor problems.

    Many TD have problems with the Fuel Injection systems-and they cost LOTS to repair.
    Yeah the motors themselves rarely break, but how many spark motor Chevy/GMs do you see on the side of the road with blown engines(yeah the do eat intake manifold gaskets, but the latest gaskets probably have solved that problem)


    87 octane is $3.19 diesel is $3.87- this mean a 10 mpg spark motor gets the same FE as a 12 mpg diesel
    So the 5 mpg the TD gets towing is really just 3 mpg cost wise.
    The $30,000 or so the Durmax will cost you on a trade in- will NEVER BE MAD UP FOR IN SAVED FUEL
    If you tow 20,000 miles per year you will use $5039 of fuel
    20000 ON THE SPARK MOTOR you will use $6380 worth of fuel
    So at best you will save $1400/year IN FUEL
    No way can you ever make up the $30,000 in cash the Duramax will cost over the 5.3.
    Besides the maintenance on the Duramax will be hundreds more per year.
    The non towing FE WILL BE A WASH or maybe favor the 5.3.
    I got my doubts about the 15.8 towing with the Duramax, but maybe that is correct at 65 mph or so.

    The diesel tows better, WAAAY better, but it is WAAAAY more expensive. Your current truck should be fine towing 7000 lbs
    How much is ease in towing worth-$30000 or so??
    Charlie
    1998 suburban-
    1/2 ton

    199500 miles
    River
    Ridge,LA

  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Burnall4 View Post
    Yeah I agree with MrShorty. I am going to keep it. I think with the right airbags and weight distribution hitch I will be fine.

    Does anyone have a good wheel and tire combo, been doing a lot of research on the form and on the google. Looking for a 17 or 18 that is wider with the correct back spacing to have the wheels more flush with body. Allowing me to run a d rated tire, and not have to do a lift.

    I have the 17 inch chrome "Micky Thompson" looking stock Chevy wheels. The just aren't wide enough to sit flush with the body.
    I run stock rims with bridgestone tires that are load range "E" since I tow over 5k.

    I find the stiffer side wall fells more stable at highway speeds and I always keep them inflated to the pressure rating on the sidewall of the tire not the pressure on the door sticker.
    Every time I get a set on or get the oil changed the mechanics always try to set the pressure to 32 pounds since that is what is on the door panel and I have to explain to them since these are not factory tires they should be set to the sidewall pressure rating

    I gues they don't realize running a tire too low on pressure is bad for the sidewall
    Hold my beer, Watch this!!!!

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