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  1. #1
    Sr. Mechanic
    kburb's Avatar
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    Default 383 Stroker long/short block or Kit

    Wanna start building a 383 stroker over the winter and not sure which way to go, i like the idea of DIY and keeping all the mechanical work to myself but just a little unsure of which route to take. Go the easy route and get a built long or short block or purchase a rotating assembly and saving a little cash.

    I am wanting to get 450 to 470 HP and at 470 to 500 TQ. I have the parts list together to achieve those type of numbers and the ability to do the work. I am asking for those that have built or bought for their story.


    thanks in advance,



    91 Suburban

    D44/14BFF w/Disc conv - Yukon 4:88's - Yukon Grizzly Lockers F/R -13" lift - DIY4x Shackle Flip - 37 ATZ on 18 MT Classics - Doug Thorley headers - Magnaflow - Holley Pro Jection Intake - Ultimate TBI mods - Hydroboost Brake Conversion - Hysteer-X Over Conversion.

    (Coming up - Fuel Injected 383 Stroker - Divorced NP205 - D60 - 40" tires)

  2. #2

    Default

    Care to share your parts list with us? I've been wanting to build a 383 stroker myself, but I have no idea what I'm doing when picking parts.

    EDIT: And this was post 2500 for me....
    Christopher

    1991 Chevy Suburban 1/2 ton 2WD w/ chevy SBC 350-3/4 ton drivetrain upgrade w/4.10 gears 200K miles
    2005 Saturn ION-2 Stock 277K miles
    1982 Bronco, 1993 Bronco (sold), 1971 M35A2 Deuce and a Half



    There are 10 kinds of people, those who understand binary, and those who dont...

    Remember kids, the only difference between screwing around and science is writing it down- Adam Savage

  3. #3

    Default

    Have you ever built a motor before??
    :cool:

    2005 Chevy Silverado Z71 Crew Cab
    6" Skyjacker lift w/Edlebrock dual front remote resoviour shocks, single rear remote. Rancho skid-plate.
    17" x 9" M/T Classic Lock Wheels, 35" BFG A/T or M/T tires
    4.10 PercisionGears w/factory locker, T/A Performance rear-end cover
    Banks CAI intake, ported throttlebody, JBA coated headers, over-sized Magnaflow cats, Magnaflow cat back exhaust, Diablo tuned
    B&M aluminum deep transmission pan
    Warn brush guard w/Warn 9.5 XP winch, PIAA bulbs, Line-X bedliner, AWS Black tool chest, Extang tonneau cover
    Weather Tech floor mats
    Cover-Craft seat covers
    Dash mat cover
    Formula One window tint
    One black Lab in rear seat.
    :glasses:

  4. #4
    Sr. Mechanic
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by silveradotrailblazer View Post
    Have you ever built a motor before??
    Yea and i also have a couple of buddies that own a small speed shop that can help.

  5. #5
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    Default

    Thinking out lou here
    The GM PERFORMANCE 383E and non E make 340 HP-at 5000 RPMS
    To make 450 hp you'll have to spin to 6600 RPMS-so actually have to hold together at 7000 RPMS with that long stroke.
    Forged crank rods pistons etc
    Will stock heads flow that much or you going with aftermarket heads??

    The 383E is $4700 delivered to your curb-a real bargain for a motor with a warranty.
    You didn't say if your motor is FI or has to be pollution compliant??

    In any case I would buy a built crate motor from one of the well know buiilders-it will be a bit less than the GM-and many of them nake the 450 hp claim.
    Usually when I've done something like this-more often with motorcycles- but with cars also- I never seem to SAVE ANY $$ DOING IT MYSELF.
    On paper I always calculate that I'm going to save maybe 35% of the cost by DIY, but after it is done I always end up spending AS MUCH OR MORE.
    Now you apparently are very experienced-and have buddies that are very experienced,so it might work out better for you.
    Some of my extra cost is learning curve mistakes
    Still I would buy it built.
    GM makes some carbed SBC that make the big power you are looking for-they might not be strokers-might be 350's that just make the power at higher rps.
    The Nascar 350's make 700 hp but they do it at 9000 rpms with 14/1 compression and zillion dollar heads
    In any case it sounds like fun,
    Charlie
    1998 suburban-
    1/2 ton

    199500 miles
    River
    Ridge,LA

  6. #6

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    I would also say buy a crate motor from GM because of the warranty you get with them. Also its hard to find a good reliable machine shop.

  7. #7
    Legend

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    Oh I see you have a modified TB.
    Will you use that?

    Nice looking Suburban- you got some serious $$ in it already-guess it deserves the stroker!

    Is that a 1500 or 2500??
    SINCE i'M SPENDING YOUR $$ SO FREELY- and FE is unimportant,and you will need the beefier tran from the 3/4 ton-why not get a bigger bore and stroke- 454?

    Granted it might be 150 lbs heavier?? But with 40" tires you can't be too concerned with weight?
    Probably better just to get a crate 383 , but I like to spend other folk's $$
    Last edited by phoebeisis; 11-30-2011 at 06:53 PM.

  8. #8
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    Default

    I have never built a motor but I can tell you a little about the GM "warranty" on there motors.. My father bought a zz383 crate about 10 years ago, before he bought it he found out a few interesting things that you might want to check into first. There warranty is only for the motor as shipped, IF you want a different cam or different heads you must buy from the GMPP catalog and they must install them in the engine before delivery otherwise they do not cover anything on the motor. They will do anything you want to that motor, but you will pay big time. He paid $2,200 for an aluminum set of high flow heads, and $1,200 for the cam and upgraded springs and such. All in all he had about $15,000 in it total, but it had a 3 year 36,000 mile warranty on everything.

    The sad part is he fell ill shortly after recieving the engine, and it sits idle in his garage never fired and slowly becoming a piece of history.....

  9. #9
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by phoebeisis View Post
    Oh I see you have a modified TB.
    Will you use that?

    Nice looking Suburban- you got some serious $$ in it already-guess it deserves the stroker!

    Is that a 1500 or 2500??
    SINCE i'M SPENDING YOUR $$ SO FREELY- and FE is unimportant,and you will need the beefier tran from the 3/4 ton-why not get a bigger bore and stroke- 454?

    Granted it might be 150 lbs heavier?? But with 40" tires you can't be too concerned with weight?
    Probably better just to get a crate 383 , but I like to spend other folk's $$

    No planning on putting a Holley FI system but that depends on if my money is catches up with my dreams. The good thing about a stroker is that im getting big block power with small block mpg. Also the 700r is willing to handle the HP but i am also building a stage two 2wd 700r4 now to use with my divorced 205.

    i see phoebeisis that you have 199k on your 98, my current tbi has 250k and still moving very well, can't beat that sbc!!

  10. #10
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    217,600 miles now- still runs great!The last 23000 miles are mine-
    Used Suburbans are real bargains-cost just $2900 with 195,000 miles 4.5 years ago-
    Speaking of gas mileage-it averages 21 mpg over 3000 mile hy trips from New Orleans to Flagstaff AZ-that was a big surprise-expected 16mpg or so-not 21mpg.Gets 13mpg in the city.I drive about 65 mph hy, but lotta towns cities road work-so probably averaging 60 mph to get 21 mpg
    Yes the 454 will just swill gas! The SBC can get great mpg.
    Charlie

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