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  1. #11
    Sr. Engineer
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    11-22-boogie woogie avenue


    I think the ecm is adjusting all it can for the cam you have. When you disconnect wire putting in limp mode.

  2. #12


    Thanks for all the advice! i am still having the same issues, and have advanced the timing (tan wire disconnected) up to about 16 btdc. I have Not replaced the distributer i said, runs like a champ with esc(tan wire ) disconnected, but can this cause any longterm negative effects?damage to anything?

  3. #13


    So you have road tested it with the wire disconnected?

    Don't know of any issues... if it works then great.
    Pavement sucks... :grrrrrr:

    1994 K1500 4x4 Ext. Cab
    PCM chip and Xenon 8000k bulbs bored over .050"
    balanced Crank, 10:1 compression
    Flat top pistons,cam,ported heads
    Option Racing Cold Air Intake
    Holley Throttle Body Spacer
    Accell Igition, 45kv coil
    FloTech Headers, no CATs, dual exhuast
    Goodyear Silent Armor A/T 305/70-16
    Pioneer SupertunerIII CD USB Bluetooth
    Kicker ZX200.2 ZX Amp
    Kicker Audio COMP 10" Subwoofer

  4. #14


    Road tested today actually, seems to run fine with the esc disconnected. still havent replaced the distributer as you suggested, that will be an "after Christmas Project", Lol. Thanks for Your advice ejohnson03!
    Happy Holidays

  5. #15


    Okay folks, Merry belated Christmas, and Happy New Year.
    So, I have beeen driving sparingly, and have put about 200 miles on the motor, with the esc unplugged. As of yesterday(and I started a new job today) the truck started acting uP. Normally it starts up as soon as I turn the key, but fired once, and died immediately. I had not started it in 4 days, so I turned the key back off(to reprime the tbi) and tried again. no luck, and i smelled gas, so I held it to the floor, and it fired right up, but blew black smoke, smelling like gas(of course, I think I unintentionally flooded it). However, it has not run right since. It appears to be "loading up in the carb"(throttle body, but you get the idea), or the spark cannot keep up with the amount of fuel.
    The body has 92,000 original miles, and it is a Rhode Island truck(sat by the ocean, and I am in central Ohio), and as my original post states, Everything in the internal engine and heads are brand new, proffessionally machined, balanced, and bored.
    Any thoughts would be Greatly Appreciated, Folks!!!

    ---------- Post added at 08:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:40 PM ----------

    If I set the distributer in a toothe or 2 off, could this be a contributing factor? I'm sure I din't, but am second guessing myself now...Scott and ejohnson03 have my "wheels turning," Lol! I think I will just replace everything ejohnson03 reccomended, but still, any thoughts would be grea!

  6. #16


    i bet you have way too much cam for the map sensor and ecm to handle, contact tbichips, they can get you setup better for what you are doing
    my 88 sas "mudwasp"
    88 chevy k2500, started as reg cab lb, now reg cab shortbox, sas 17'' of lift, 52'' front springs f.i. bbc , 79 dana hp 60 chevy outers, 14bolt ff spooled divorced 205 and cut 40'' gumbos
    1998 k3500 gmc crew cab dually L65 6.5TD 4l80e with a couple of mods

    bouncing truck avatar creator

  7. #17


    Thanks, and you could be right, but i purchased it at Jegs, and according to the book, and saleman, this is the biggest cam I could go without modifying anything(but I am not ruling out what you said). How can I check ouyour theory?

  8. #18


    Quote Originally Posted by mace1530 View Post
    Thanks, and you could be right, but i purchased it at Jegs, and according to the book, and saleman, this is the biggest cam I could go without modifying anything(but I am not ruling out what you said). How can I check ouyour theory?
    send a message to or call the contact at tbichips and discuss your issue and what cam specs you have along with any other mods and they should be able to tell you exactly if your cam will play nice or if you need a custom chip to deal with problems like too much lobe separation causing low vacuum or whatever issue you may be having.

  9. #19


    ok long time later, i figured it out! bad distributer, and intake air temp control sensor, caused the idle to lope. Running Great!

  10. #20


    I have a 1990 5.7l suburban. I was having all sorts of issues when I bought is as the third owner.
    O deg tdc with the esc disconnected and at norm operating temp. The timing chain all new and sprockets? If not make sure the button on the distributor turns immediately when you jog it via the crank snout or dampener bolt. After that, go after the brain. Vacuum on a tight engine is 18-22 inhg. If you have a vacuum ga on the unit and rev it and the ga drops but is very slow to recover now you are talking timing issues with the valve train, not the timing with the light. Hope this points you good direction.

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