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  1. #11
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    What should I be looking at as far as wattage and such?
    2006 Chevorlet Silverado "Tank" 1500 LT Regular Cab
    - Diamond Plate Tool Box
    - Tonneau Cover


    Future Mods :
    - BDSuspension 6" Lift
    - 35% Tints
    - Tow Mirrors (Heated/Power)
    - 35" Tires
    - Cat-back exhaust
    - Cold Air Intake

  2. #12
    Master Mechanic zigger215's Avatar
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    Aw yes, these threads are my favorite/least favorite threads of all time!

    I'll give you a general break down that will help you make the decision on equipment all on your lonesome.

    1st: the headunit, this is can be a complicated topic for GM owners because from 03 and newer the harness kit is so dang expensive!!! DO NOT HARDWIRE YOUR DECK! Don't tap your acc. Wire from somewhere else and route it up to your deck. Just go by the correct harness kit. For you, the GMCO is what you need. It will run you between 60 and 100 bucks. It has a self generated acc. Wire and your install will be cleaner and much more professional.
    As for the headunit itself, you will want to figure out what you want out of the unit, options, sound quality enhancement (signal clarity), speed (iPod, cd, USB control), ease of use. All these things are done differently by different companies. For example, I'm running a high end JVC double din, it doesn't come with nav and it's iPod controls are slow but it has an extremely good EQ and has the highest line-out voltage in its class, so when I'm using it as the quarterback for me big system, I have zero signal loss (this is different then signal interference which is dictated by RCA quality, I will get into that). So for the headunit, decide what feature is most important to you, post it and then we can give you even better info on what company to start to look at it, be ready to compromise because not even kenwood (arguable the best headunits on the market at the moment) is going to give you everything you want.

    My next reply will be on subs and sub enclosure selection.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by zigger215 View Post
    Aw yes, these threads are my favorite/least favorite threads of all time!

    I'll give you a general break down that will help you make the decision on equipment all on your lonesome.

    1st: the headunit, this is can be a complicated topic for GM owners because from 03 and newer the harness kit is so dang expensive!!! DO NOT HARDWIRE YOUR DECK! Don't tap your acc. Wire from somewhere else and route it up to your deck. Just go by the correct harness kit. For you, the GMCO is what you need. It will run you between 60 and 100 bucks. It has a self generated acc. Wire and your install will be cleaner and much more professional.
    As for the headunit itself, you will want to figure out what you want out of the unit, options, sound quality enhancement (signal clarity), speed (iPod, cd, USB control), ease of use. All these things are done differently by different companies. For example, I'm running a high end JVC double din, it doesn't come with nav and it's iPod controls are slow but it has an extremely good EQ and has the highest line-out voltage in its class, so when I'm using it as the quarterback for me big system, I have zero signal loss (this is different then signal interference which is dictated by RCA quality, I will get into that). So for the headunit, decide what feature is most important to you, post it and then we can give you even better info on what company to start to look at it, be ready to compromise because not even kenwood (arguable the best headunits on the market at the moment) is going to give you everything you want.

    My next reply will be on subs and sub enclosure selection.
    As far as headunit goes, I'm a Alpine fan boy.

    I want :

    iPod/iPhone controls (I have an iphone)
    Navigation
    Pandora (would be nice)
    Double-Din
    CD-Player
    High-Quality Output

    - As far as the GMCO Harness, if I understand you correctly your saying that I can get this harness and its plug and play? I won't have to hardwire into a ACC wire for this to work?
    2006 Chevorlet Silverado "Tank" 1500 LT Regular Cab
    - Diamond Plate Tool Box
    - Tonneau Cover


    Future Mods :
    - BDSuspension 6" Lift
    - 35% Tints
    - Tow Mirrors (Heated/Power)
    - 35" Tires
    - Cat-back exhaust
    - Cold Air Intake

  4. #14
    Master Mechanic zigger215's Avatar
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    That is correct on the harness.

    ---------- Post added at 10:13 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:01 AM ----------

    Just remember on the deck, the higher the lineout voltage, the better the sound quality.

    Subwoofers! This is a major can of worms because everyone thinks what they have is what you need. Dont fall for this ploy. Listen to everyone's comments on first hand experience, this can HELP you in your decision but don't let it dictate you towards a bad decision.

    The simple science is this, the smaller the sub, the "faster" response you will get (generally, if you REALLY dive into it there are so many variables behind this concept). 8" subs are almost a thing of the past, JL still has their hand made W7 for a hefty price but it is a pretty sweet sounding sub.

    The 10" sub is wildly popular because it is versatile, put it in a sealed box and you will accomplish a responsive, loud system with no lag or residual noise. Contrary to popular belief, 10s replicate almost identical sound waves as 12s, IE, 12s aren't much "louder". 10s are great for someone who has a wide range of music choice, rock, rap, country, jazz, everything.

    12s are typical for systems catered mostly towards hip-hop, rap, jazz, blues. They are slower then 10s and have trouble keeping up with rock and country.

    15s, well unless you are looking to participate in SPL competitions, I would avoid, they are slow, the sound quality is lacking but they do push an awful lot of bass

    Sealed box: better for overall sound quality, used on systems for rock, rap, country, everything. Great system box but requires a slightly bigger amp to support the sub.

    Ported box: makes a lot of noise! Very loud bass and you can run a smaller amp without hurting anything. Great for rap and hip-hop. Less then desirable for country and rock.


    Next ill get into amps and cover things like impedance and wattage, impedance is very important!

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by zigger215 View Post
    That is correct on the harness.

    ---------- Post added at 10:13 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:01 AM ----------

    Just remember on the deck, the higher the lineout voltage, the better the sound quality.

    Subwoofers! This is a major can of worms because everyone thinks what they have is what you need. Dont fall for this ploy. Listen to everyone's comments on first hand experience, this can HELP you in your decision but don't let it dictate you towards a bad decision.

    The simple science is this, the smaller the sub, the "faster" response you will get (generally, if you REALLY dive into it there are so many variables behind this concept). 8" subs are almost a thing of the past, JL still has their hand made W7 for a hefty price but it is a pretty sweet sounding sub.

    The 10" sub is wildly popular because it is versatile, put it in a sealed box and you will accomplish a responsive, loud system with no lag or residual noise. Contrary to popular belief, 10s replicate almost identical sound waves as 12s, IE, 12s aren't much "louder". 10s are great for someone who has a wide range of music choice, rock, rap, country, jazz, everything.

    12s are typical for systems catered mostly towards hip-hop, rap, jazz, blues. They are slower then 10s and have trouble keeping up with rock and country.

    15s, well unless you are looking to participate in SPL competitions, I would avoid, they are slow, the sound quality is lacking but they do push an awful lot of bass

    Sealed box: better for overall sound quality, used on systems for rock, rap, country, everything. Great system box but requires a slightly bigger amp to support the sub.

    Ported box: makes a lot of noise! Very loud bass and you can run a smaller amp without hurting anything. Great for rap and hip-hop. Less then desirable for country and rock.


    Next ill get into amps and cover things like impedance and wattage, impedance is very important!
    I need to get something that is low profile, sub wise becuase I have a reqular cab and I want to put it behind the seat area. Along wth the amp and my fire department scanner.
    2006 Chevorlet Silverado "Tank" 1500 LT Regular Cab
    - Diamond Plate Tool Box
    - Tonneau Cover


    Future Mods :
    - BDSuspension 6" Lift
    - 35% Tints
    - Tow Mirrors (Heated/Power)
    - 35" Tires
    - Cat-back exhaust
    - Cold Air Intake

  6. #16
    Sr. Mechanic
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    Remember - Dont believe evetything you read. Check this place out www.sundownaudio.com and this site has a great audio forum www.soundsoulutionaudio.com they also sell high end audio.



    91 Suburban

    D44/14BFF w/Disc conv - Yukon 4:88's - Yukon Grizzly Lockers F/R -13" lift - DIY4x Shackle Flip - 37 ATZ on 18 MT Classics - Doug Thorley headers - Magnaflow - Holley Pro Jection Intake - Ultimate TBI mods - Hydroboost Brake Conversion - Hysteer-X Over Conversion.

    (Coming up - Fuel Injected 383 Stroker - Divorced NP205 - D60 - 40" tires)

  7. #17
    Master Mechanic zigger215's Avatar
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    I'll get back to the amps in the morning. True. Do not believe everything you read, do as much research as you can
    Last edited by zigger215; 12-11-2011 at 12:07 AM.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by tecster View Post
    I need to get something that is low profile, sub wise becuase I have a reqular cab and I want to put it behind the seat area. Along wth the amp and my fire department scanner.
    Several companies have shallow mount woffers, ummm pioneer, diamond audio are just few. Couldnt even begin to tell you how the sound, never heard one in a truck.

    ---------- Post added at 02:30 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:27 AM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by tecster View Post
    What should I be looking at as far as wattage and such?
    if you run a 5 channel the as much as you can afford, not sure how big they come but at least 700 watts. That should give you 300 or so just for the subs



    91 Suburban

    D44/14BFF w/Disc conv - Yukon 4:88's - Yukon Grizzly Lockers F/R -13" lift - DIY4x Shackle Flip - 37 ATZ on 18 MT Classics - Doug Thorley headers - Magnaflow - Holley Pro Jection Intake - Ultimate TBI mods - Hydroboost Brake Conversion - Hysteer-X Over Conversion.

    (Coming up - Fuel Injected 383 Stroker - Divorced NP205 - D60 - 40" tires)

  9. #19
    Master Mechanic zigger215's Avatar
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    Amplifiers- so it sounds like you might want to go the 5 channel way? It's a good idea but if I remember correctly, your truck doesn't have a rear channel because it's a standard cab.

    Here is the thing with 5-channels, the wattage breakup in the previous post is incorrect. All manufacturers have different wattage distribution through their channels. The distribution is dictated by the size of the amp, the class of the amp, the impedance of the amp and the model amp.

    As stated above there are several companies who make quality shallow mount subs. I would stay away from pioneer. In my professional experience as an installer, the pioneer shallow mount sub is a letdown. I would go with a shallow sub from rockerford fosgate. They are not "premier" but they do make quality affordable shallow mounts that really do perform. It's a solution we use often in standard cab trucks and other stealth installs.

    With that being said, rockerford also offers multi-channel style amps that would offer a great solution for your desire for affordable sound quality. Research rockerford fosgate and go to some local audio shops and ask to listen to different shallow mount subs. We love showing off our display subs .

    For clarification, I am not a rockerford fan or hater. So this isn't biased based on my preference. I am a huge zapco fan but currently have a fairly excessive kicker L7, KS, and ZX setup in my truck. You can see that build in this audio forum titled The "real" Big Build Thread. Lol I think that's the title I forget!

    ---------- Post added at 09:44 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:30 AM ----------

    The subwoofers I've installed and worked under through the years are Kenwood, Rockford Fosgate, Kicker Comp, Zapco, JL Audio, Orion, Pioneer, Image Dynamic, Infinity and Alpine. I've installed way more then just two or three subs from each of these manufacturers and rockford has produced the best shallow mount sub in my experience as well as the experience of every other installer in the shop. Critical Mass produces probably one of the best shallow mount subs ever made but I've never heard it and the price tag is lame. I'm only going off the reviews it has.

  10. #20
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    Rockford Fosgate - old time company in AZ- they make good stuff and have been around a long time, and i am a Fosgate lover. My first system was 2 punch 12's and a Power 300 amp for lows and thieir mids and highs running off a couple of punch 75's. Back in the day you had RF our you had junk.

    Yea im that old......


    the MTX line is also good another company that has been in the game for a long time - traded a buddy for 2 blue thunder 12's. Those were the hardest hitting 12" subs i have ever owned with out question.



    91 Suburban

    D44/14BFF w/Disc conv - Yukon 4:88's - Yukon Grizzly Lockers F/R -13" lift - DIY4x Shackle Flip - 37 ATZ on 18 MT Classics - Doug Thorley headers - Magnaflow - Holley Pro Jection Intake - Ultimate TBI mods - Hydroboost Brake Conversion - Hysteer-X Over Conversion.

    (Coming up - Fuel Injected 383 Stroker - Divorced NP205 - D60 - 40" tires)

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