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12-11-2011, 12:34 PM #1
Door handle, shocks, leaking dash, oh my!
Just when I thought I took care of all the minor maintenance my new 99 C2500 needed, a new batch crops up. I can no longer open my driver's door from the inside, I bought new shocks but lack the tools to remove the old ones myself, and my dash rains on the feet of my passengers when driving in the rain. Uggh.
think I'll start with the door handle. Then I'll see what a shop will charge to install the shocks I bought. And since it's winter here in Michigan, I'll hold off on the down-pouring dashboard.
Luke - Michigan
1999 C2500 Suburban LT
2009 Subaru Legacy Limited
12-11-2011, 10:49 PM #2
Look on the bright side. At least you don't have a new car payment. Pick up some tools and play around with it. These things are fun and easy to work on, kind of like fixing up an old car. Merry Christmas!
1996 GMC Suburban K 1500 "The Love Boat"
Flowmaster catback exhaust
BFG 285/75/16 on stock 16's
K&N with Cold Redneck Air Intake
Monroe Reflex Shocks
A whole bunch of new stuff -with-
more to come
12-11-2011, 11:14 PM #3
- Join Date
- Apr 2009
- Columbia Falls, Montana, United States
- Blog Entries
The door handle problem should be a simple fix, but I can see how replacing the shocks could be a difficult task without any tools. I've never heard of the dash leaking though....2005 Chevy Silverado W/T
4X4|4.8 with some mods (has only slightly more pull than a 5.3)|Auto|4 door ex cab|Cooper Discoverer AT/3's in 285-75/17's on Helo 842's|Cooper Discover M+S 265-75/17's on Devino DV349's|Flowmaster 40 Single in Dual out with custom bent pipe from the end of the cats back|2" Procomp leveling kit|Custom made center console|Custom dyno tunes|Air Raid CAI|Air Raid Throttle Body Spacer|Apex brand topper|Kenwood Head Unit with Kenwood speakers|Painted mirrors/grille|Debadged except front emblem|Bilsteins front and rear
Planned mods not in order
2 inch lift|Custom front/rear bumper|hitch tire carrier|roof basket on topper, bars on cab|finish center console build|install Midland CB|Power options|Tint|Custom made raised bed in the bed of the truck|Lund LunarVisor
Also have a 1992 Ford Ranger with a lot of stuff done to it. Currently waiting for a bit of a rebuild.
"The only woman I'm pimping from now on is Sweet Lady Propane. And I'm tricking her out all over this town."
12-12-2011, 11:52 AM #4
In the winter the leaking dash is fine, until the snow melts and here in Michigan that can be tomorrow. I would check under the hood. Look along where the heater lines come in. Also check the rubber gasket that seals near the windshield wipers when you close the hood. The door handle is an easy fix. Either the rod came off or the handle broke. On my 95 the handle broke where the rod attaches. Monsterautoparts.com has that handle for around $20 if you need a new one. http://www.monsterautoparts.com/CHEV..._door_han1.htm Do you need special tools to do the shocks or just wrenches and some sockets? There are some crazy cheap deals at sears right now for the large mechanics set of tools.
1995 Silverado 4x4
6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge
2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)
12-13-2011, 09:59 PM #5
I've seen a few threads about the leaking dash here. Water is collecting in my heater vents (I can hear it move when I turn corners) so I think the best lead I've seen is the seals around screws by the wipers that are right over the air intake for the ventilation system. Just too cold to tear it all apart and look for it.
The door handles look easy enough, other than mention of a rivet I'll need to remove and replace with a screw. But I never considered that it just fell off rather than breaking. Will have to check that.
The shocks either have bolts buried by the frame that I must need an elbow socket or something to get to (driver's rear) or the top nut needs to be cut off with a torch or something (driver's front). I was hoping a standard socket and wrench set would be enough. Wrong. Also looks like I need a taller floor jack. Mine is rated for the weight but just doesn't have the height for this truck. Hope Santa shops at Sears.
12-13-2011, 10:44 PM #6
It is supposed to be in the 50's on Thursday, plenty warm to look at the leak . If I remember correctly, I was able to change the front shocks out with two wrenches. It takes forever but, it worked. Yes, you can carefully cut the nut off with a torch. But, you when you put the new one on you still have to spin the nut on. So there has to be a way to get the old one off with wrenches.
12-14-2011, 07:32 AM #7
12-14-2011, 08:55 AM #8
12-14-2011, 06:05 PM #9
- Join Date
- May 2011
- Upstate South Carolina
- Blog Entries
As for shocks, I am still running the originals in my 98 and it still rides better than the Ford from the same model year. Probably give a new F-150 a run for its money. LOL
I have not experienced any issues with windshield leaks. I know there is a drain for the A/C that can get plugged and cause the a/c to leak. It is a stretch but might be worth checking just in case in also doubles for water that might come in.86 911 Porsche Carrera
98 K1500 Suburban LT
2012 Nissan Leaf
General Motors. Because life is too short to drive a Ford
12-15-2011, 11:38 AM #10
Yeah, the inside and outside door handles seem to be a common weak point on these trucks. I'm ordering some handle parts right now in another browser window...I like you.
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