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  1. #1

    Default 04 Yukon CV Joint Boot

    I have a torn boot on my driver side CV joint. Looking at my manual looks like I can remove the bolts from the IRS unit and pull the axle shaft out of the hub assembly. Anybody replaced one of these before? I could buy one of those cheap split boots that bolt together, but I'm scarred I'll be in the same spot soon. I am not exactly sure on how the shaft comes out of the IRS unit, does it just unbolt or do I need a special pickle fork for it as well? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    TP

  2. #2

    Default

    for a reapir like that i would go to the dealer drive axles are a whole special section of work on their own since if u mess up putting it back in the truck it will never drive like it used to.

    1996 Chevy Tahoe LT 5.7L V8 4X4 205,000+ miles. Built proudly at Janesville Assembly in Janesville, Wisconsin
    Basic mods: Lights all over, bunch of electrical work, and a couple cooling mods.

    Check out my other mods in My Garage: http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...t-Tahoe-4-Door

  3. #3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tommy Panfish View Post
    I have a torn boot on my driver side CV joint. Looking at my manual looks like I can remove the bolts from the IRS unit and pull the axle shaft out of the hub assembly. Anybody replaced one of these before? I could buy one of those cheap split boots that bolt together, but I'm scarred I'll be in the same spot soon. I am not exactly sure on how the shaft comes out of the IRS unit, does it just unbolt or do I need a special pickle fork for it as well? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    TP
    TP, It is not that big of a job. You really can't mess up putting it back in unless you somehow screw up the splines going into the wheel hub. Sometimes have to take the tie rod off and sometimes a ball upper ball joint so you are able to move the assembly enough to get the shaft out. But, I have been able to do it by taking off the swaybar link. Autozone rents a pickle fork for free if you need one. If you have an issue with things turning while you try to loosen them you can always put it in 4 high. Pull the large nut off the end of the axle shaft and you can take out the 6 or 7 bolts on the flange for the cv shaft. The one side will stay in the front diff and the other is attached to the cv shaft. That shaft is out then. I have not done a boot on one of these, but usually there is a circlip inside that will let you separate the cv joint itself. Clean it up nicely. Then you slide the new boot on put the joint back together, fill her with grease, put the clamps on and done. Sometimes it is a PITA to get the joint back together. I looked into prices in Michigan, around $18 for the boot kit or $57 for a entire shaft. I have begun to get lazy and my time is worth more then the price difference, so I would probably do the entire shaft and be done with it.
    Last edited by Pikey; 12-16-2011 at 09:37 AM.

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  4. #4

    Default

    I'm leaning towards the whole thing...just called Dearborn Rack & Axle...$50 and then $20 core....thats cheap. When I replaced the front bearing/hub assembly it was a battle to get hub assembly off the spindle...hoping it's not so bad this time. Thanks for the help Pikey...wanna come over to Ypsi and give me a hand!

  5. #5

    Default

    I would just do the entire thing. If the other boot rips then your are out $40, So $50 for the whole thing is pretty good. I would consider coming out if it was not one and a half hours away . If you changed the hub recently it should not be that bad to get apart.

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  6. #6

    Default

    You will need a 36mm socket for the axle nut at the wheel side. Also a good impact ora big breaker bar.
    :cool:

    2005 Chevy Silverado Z71 Crew Cab
    6" Skyjacker lift w/Edlebrock dual front remote resoviour shocks, single rear remote. Rancho skid-plate.
    17" x 9" M/T Classic Lock Wheels, 35" BFG A/T or M/T tires
    4.10 PercisionGears w/factory locker, T/A Performance rear-end cover
    Banks CAI intake, ported throttlebody, JBA coated headers, over-sized Magnaflow cats, Magnaflow cat back exhaust, Diablo tuned
    B&M aluminum deep transmission pan
    Warn brush guard w/Warn 9.5 XP winch, PIAA bulbs, Line-X bedliner, AWS Black tool chest, Extang tonneau cover
    Weather Tech floor mats
    Cover-Craft seat covers
    Dash mat cover
    Formula One window tint
    One black Lab in rear seat.
    :glasses:

  7. #7

    Default Done

    I did the repair on Sunday. I'm lucky to have an Uncle who has a heated shop with a lot of tools. Not that bad of job. I had to back out the sway bar link to get the axle shaft out. Put everything back together with the new axle shaft and replaced all four shocks. Jumped in and headed home and noticed a growling/grinding sound. I originally thought it was my CV joint making noise.....it was the wheel bearing assembly. Back to the parts store, took all back a part, replaced bearing, all set...no more noise. This is the 2nd bearing for the drivers side. Why do these things go through wheel bearings so fast? No lift, stock size tires, wife daily driver. Anybody have any thoughts?

  8. #8

    Default

    What brand of bearing did you use?

    97 Chevrolet Suburban K1500 5.7L
    78 GMC High Sierra K1500
    Fat, drunk, and stupid is no way to go thru life.

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