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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ethan View Post
    Hopefully I'm not too late to tell you this, when you drop the manifold in place, DO NOT move it back and fourth, just drop it straight down, if you don't get it aligned, pick it back up, and drop it straight back down again, if you shift it from side to side, you will screw up the gasket, and have to take it all apart again, assuming you don't torque it down, and realign the gasket.

    Two, make sure you torque the bolts down all over about 3 times, once you torque the outer bolts, it usually causes the inner bolts to go loose, so you have to keep doing it until they are all equally torqued.
    Thanks for the info , I am about 1/3 of the way done. I have disconnected all of the wiring and such. I have yet to remove the intake manifold and install the new gaskets. I will be sure to take your advice tomorrow when I plan on finishing the job.

  2. #12
    Sr. Mechanic Ethan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick S View Post
    Thanks for the info , I am about 1/3 of the way done. I have disconnected all of the wiring and such. I have yet to remove the intake manifold and install the new gaskets. I will be sure to take your advice tomorrow when I plan on finishing the job.
    No problem, I could write a lesson on doing it myself.

    A few other things I should mention just to make sure you don't run into any problems. I'm pretty sure yours still has a distributor, when you go to stab it back in, it will only go in two ways, the correct way, and 180 degrees off, make sure you stab it in the correct way, or it'll backfire...you'll know real quick, and it wont hurt anything if you do start it with it backwards.

    Second, you'll have to retime the engine. To do this, you need to disconnect the brown with black strip wire under the passenger side dash next to the blower motor, it's kinda hanging there in the open. Second, you need to get a buddy to help you out, one with a timing light. Have one buddy in the truck cranking it over, and move the distributor as he is cranking until it fires up. Then try to move it until you get it as close as possible to running good, then crank down on the distributor locking tab to keep it there while your buddy sets up with his timing light.

    The next thing you do is loosen the distributor while the engine is running, and turn it until the notch in the harmonic balancer lines up with the 1st large notch on the small timing tab(your base timing should be 0 degrees, the tab should say it if it's not dirty) above the harmonic balancer, then crank the distributor tab down, and reconnect the base timing connection under the dash.

    Then you need to go drive it around after you confirmed all the fluids are good, so the PCM can relearn it's timing. That's the hard part.
    1994 Chevy Silverado 1500 Ext Cab 350 cuin TBI in dark Chevy blue
    160,000+ miles
    Original paint
    Original interior
    Original engine and tranny
    wrecked twice stolen once
    Diamond Plate bed rails
    Power windows
    Original Alloy wheels
    Original fancy smancy cup holder
    Tow package
    Original plastic bed liner
    K&N Cone Air Intake
    Dual MagnaFlow exhaust(not true dual) with chrome tips
    MSD Street Fire Performance Ignition coil

  3. #13
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    Ethan
    Why do you have to retime the engine?
    If you drop the distributor back in just like you took it out it should drop in exactly the same -same tooth in same notch?
    I'm assuming the distributor has a gear on the shaft?
    Shouldn't the timing be exactly what it was when you removed it?
    Seems like some folks put some line up mark on the distributor and something else that is in a fixed position.
    Charlie
    PS I don't think I even have a functioning timing light-had one- but probably haven't used it in 25 years?
    1998 suburban-
    1/2 ton

    199500 miles
    River
    Ridge,LA

  4. #14
    Sr. Mechanic Ethan's Avatar
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    Like I said, it only goes in two ways, it's not like with traditional distributors where you can be one tooth off, it's keyed so it only goes in two ways. I'd time it because there is no guarantee that you will stab it back in 100% without turning the distributor itself and throwing the timing off(the cap will spin separate of the shaft, it's not locked down, you'll see what I mean), and a very slight turn is enough to throw it off several degrees in timing. When the computer is changing the timing, it usually advances the timing by 20 degrees, so if you are off a few degrees, it can significantly affect your MPG's and performance.

    I would retime it just as a fail safe, to make sure 100% you did it correctly.

  5. #15
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    Ethan
    Thanks I get it- might work to tape it in place or in some other way make sure the "top" doesn't turn- but probably one of those things where you actually have to have it in hand to see why that won't work
    Yeah guess I'll be hunting up a timing light when I redo the gaskets(someday).
    At least I won't need a dwell gauge- and won't have to adjust change points like the "old days"

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