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Thread: Goodwrench Crate Engine Project
10-15-2007, 12:14 AM #1
350 Engine Replacement Project
Looking at replacing a recently blown motor in my '87 4WD 1/2 ton, have found a few dealers online however I've also left some voicemails with parts departments at car dealers locally (yea I'm starting tonight and impatient) to see if they can get the same engine for a comparable price and not shank me on the deal.
If purchasing online it appears that they'll be approx. $1700 plus $300-400 for shipping to my area. If bought in my home state there will also need to be sales tax thrown into the deal so we're looking at $2150 conservatively.
This thread is two fold:
1. Get input on best places for parts and motors as this process goes along
2. Document the entire process of the conversion since this is the first motor replacement I've ever done. Have done a bunch of externals (plugs, tune ups, engine accessories, clutches, etc.) but never something that involved this type of replacement. Look forward to feedback from some of the pros here and I'll be posting pictures and I go along.
Just a few places selling the crate motor for my Burb:
Can't seem to find a reference to this 'kit' anywhere else so I'm guessing that it is something that put together for the suggestive sell but looks like a decent range of stuff to replace while putting the new motor in.
Also a quick thanks to DeputyDave for this post (see#22), although it was short it was informative.
Last edited by GMPartsClub; 09-22-2009 at 10:30 PM. Reason: reword title in the event I don't go with Goodwrench motorYou may be a redneck if... you have spent more on your pickup truck than on your education. - Jeff Foxworthy :he:
10-15-2007, 06:09 AM #2
If I get the time I will look today for a rebuild place right in Texas that one of my Fiero forum guys got a great deal on a 3.4 with shipping for under a grand.
They have everything as far as motors go so you might be able to pick up a rebuilt one for 7 or 800.
Let me look threw my PM’s on my fiero forum to see if I still have it.
Melanie has gotten to be a pro at dropping motors in Burbs. We put 3 in our 86 before we got the right one from Autozone.
Technology is great, when it Works,
And one Big Pain in the Ass When it Doesn’t.
Detroit Iron Rules, All the Rest are Just Toys.
94 GMC Burban, 5.7L (350), 4X4, Auto
86 GMC Burban, 350, 2 WD, Auto
79 GMC pickup plow truck, 400, Full time 4X4, Auto
86 Pontiac Fiero SE, 2.8L, Auto, only mid engine American car
See a Pattern yet?
15 year GM assembly line worker.
10-15-2007, 06:21 AM #3
Here you go.
They are located in Dallas and Huston.
They have many more motors than what is on their website so you may have to call.
Here is a partial list of some of their motors.
Good luck. Pulling and putting a motor in isn’t that bad, helped my dad do my first one when I was 14 and to be honest have lost count of how many since. Sometimes it is better than trying to fix a bad motor.
I’m going to be a little busy in the future helping a friend out so I will try to get back with any help early mornings. Don’t be afraid to ask for help from a local member as dropping a motor in can be a 2 man/person job. You need someone to help line up things.
10-15-2007, 09:18 AM #4
Also the other location is not Houston by San Antonio so it would only be about a 2 hour drive to pick it up but I'm going to call today and see what shipping would be. If it is too much I may pull the motor first and then drive down and drop off my core with the purchase to save the up front core charge. Since I have a digital camera I'd be taking a lot of pictures of the process to make sure I've got detailed documentation of the whole process.
The thing I need to read up on is setting up things like the distributor, etc. and pre-lubing correctly since I've never done this before. If someone can recommend a site that outlines the process good, a book is fine as well.
10-15-2007, 09:41 AM #5
Just got off the phone with City Motor Supply and they roll through Austin twice a week and only charge $20 if I meet their delivery truck. Since I'm too far outside of town for their truck to come to my house that is cheap delivery. Turns out I can deliver the core to their truck first to get looked at and they can tell me what can be applied against the core and what can't so I'll know my total cost include any core charges for damaged parts which sounds good. Will be pulling the motor this weekend and will have my first batch of photos.
10-15-2007, 12:11 PM #6There is no way to happiness....happiness is the way.:yipi:
High Desert SoCal
93 K1500 burb (personal) 350 AT 3" Lift 250K+
02 Honda Civic LX
Looking for a 1990's Miata for an engine swap
10-15-2007, 02:53 PM #7
- Join Date
- Jan 2007
- Yacolt, Washington
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I (and some friends) installed a GM crate motor in my 87 Blazer a couple of years ago. I paid around $1750 (including sales tax) from my local Chevrolet dealer and paid another $200-300 for new motor mounts, tune-up parts, Felpro intake manifold gasket set, Oil, ATF, and coolant, a few nuts and bolts, and pizza and pop for my helpers. We used a friends shop with a nice chain hoist from the cieling, every tool needed (air and otherwise) a floor jack, and a furnace for heat so it went very smoothly. It was a great feeling when we got it running, timed, and purring like a kitten and was able to light up the 35" BFG's due to all the new found torque. I put the core back into the crate from which the new long block was in and returned it to the dealer.Darcy
2006 Silverado 2500HD LT3 4X4 CC SB Duramax LBZ
Tuff Country 6" lift, 35" Toyo M/T's on 20" Ultra Peacemaker wheels, Quadzilla Stealth2 programmer, Diamond Eye 5" cat-back exhaust, factory Special order color Yellow.
10-20-2007, 10:22 PM #8
Has anyone used an external company to do a TBI rebuild? Figured since it is original as well (IOW high miles) maybe give it a 'spa' treatment as well.
This was an interesting read: http://www.cfm-tech.com/trucks1b.htm
Last edited by 4wd-burban; 10-20-2007 at 10:33 PM. Reason: Add scanned copies of article about CFM Tech
10-23-2007, 12:23 PM #9
you will want to sit down and make a plan first thing and stick to it.
you need to ask yourself (and be honest)
what do i want to do with this vehicle?
did it have enough power for what i need it to do?
get a list of parts cost and suppliers.
a locak engine rebuilder might be able to get a better performaing rebuild for you than a motor swap. once you build your plan (headers/cam or what ever) do not change the plan this derails projects faster than anything.
this can be a simple an low cost repair or it can be the end of your vehicle......mikeMichael Collins
1993 4X4 Suburban
many other toys as well
10-23-2007, 03:57 PM #10
I'm about to do the swap too. I've done one before.
It really isn't as bad as it sounds. Take the time to ask people questions before you start, have it all planned out.
1) Drain coolant, remove radiator (you will hit it, and ruin it, if you leave it in car!). Remove all the accessories. You can leave the A/C compressor and steering pump hooked to Condensor/Evaporator and steering box respectively, just detach them from the engine and hang them out of the way if there is room.
2) start to unhook everything else hooked to your engine (wires, vacuum lines) and label them with tape, can also take a lot of digital pics of how things were hooked up, this can be a life saver later!
3) Once everything is unhooked, you need to bring in the engine hoist attach it to the engine and put some tension in it so it is supporting the engine. If you engine doesn't have lift points bolted to intake, you can use bolts holes in heads if you have castiron heads.
4) it is time to unbolt the tranny from the block, but first....YOU MUST HAVE TRANNY SUPPORTED! the front half of your trans is only supported by its attachment to the engine so if detach from the engine without support it will fall! So the trans needs to have its own floor jack or other support underneath it, this is critical for safety!
5) once everything is supported, removed inpsection pan from front bottom of trans, and take out the flexplate to torque conveter bolts. You'll need to rotate the flexplate to get each of the bolts into view for removal.
6) Lastly, remove the bellhousing to block bolts. You will likely need a long extention on your ratchet (20+ inches) and a swivel head to reach them, but they should come out pretty easy if you can get a socket square on them.
7) remove bolts hooking engine mounts to engine brackets.
8) lift out engine. Hopefully you've attach the crane as tight as possible to the engine..otherwise you may find your hoist can't lift the engine high enough to get over the front clip!! (might have to try letting air out front tires etc to get it low enough but remember the support under the trans before you lower your truck!)
Good luck..and always think twice before each step..go slowly and work in a place where you can stop and pick up the next day. You don't want to be in a rush. If you rush, it is dangerous!! And something will go wrong! Don't work alone, have somebody with you for safety.
Last edited by Big6ft6; 10-23-2007 at 04:10 PM.
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