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  1. #1

    Default Lowered to Level

    Like almost everybody here with a truck I want to level my 2011 Silverado, but I dont want to lift the front to achieve the leveled look.
    Has anyone lowered the rear of their truck to level it out?
    If you did what method did you use i.e. custom airbags and suspension, shackle kit, shackle relocation, spring replacement, axle over spring?
    I'm looking for ideas and observations on what worked best.
    The end goal will be to level the truck but leave it capable of towing at most a 4K trailer (factory towing is 6500lbs/1000lb cargo).
    I know I might sacrafice some load capability lowering the truck depending on method used but if I have to I'll use a set of Firestone 500c's and a VIA Air compressor to bring the rear up for heavy loads since towing will be limited most times to less than 5 miles.

    Now heres info I know or dug up from past experience.

    Axle over: This will drop the rear about 3-3.5", I only need about 2" and I dont want a prerunner or to have to mess with lowering the front suspension.

    Air bags: This method will achieve exactly whatever height I want with an onboard compressor, but it's expensive and means chopping up the rear suspension to accomplish. A possibility but only as a last resort.

    Shackle kit and Shackle relocation: Relocation is more work but the end result is more of a factory ride and done correctly it shouldnt have a negative affect on the springs.
    Kit with replacement shackles is not hard to do, I havent seen a lowering kit for these trucks yet but then again I havent looked very hard either. The problem with different length shackles is they change the ride quality and depending on length can act against the springs to flatten them out or make them sag faster than normal. I'm lazy I really dont want to have to put new springs on in a year or two.

    Spring replacement: At this point this looks like the best option due to the fact I can retain factory ride quality without sacraficing load capability.

    And on anyone of these I could use the 500C airbags but then I start running into investing $$ into something that should be easy and inexpensive to accomplish, I really want a symple sytem that wont take anything other than normal maintenance.

  2. #2

    Default

    I, too, am looking to lower the back of my son's truck ... although for a different purpose (he is looking for that 'pre-runner' look with the front higher than the rear) .... and let's face it, to a 17-year-old boy, things like ride characteristics and towing just don't apply.
    (PS ... our truck is a 2007 new-body 1500 ext-cab short bed 2WD)

    I looked under the truck the other day, and I see a 1-1/2" tall "block" sandwiched between the bottom side of the leaf spring and the top side of the mounting pad welded to the diff housing ... I'm wondering if I can remoce that to drop the rear about 1-1/2" (I also have a thread in the "lifted and off-road suspension" thread asking the same question)? There are 2 problems that I can see may arise by removing these blocks ...
    1) there are usually alignment dowels/holes on the leaf spring and mounting pad, so that the axle doesn't slip or 'walk' on the spring ... if I remove these blocks, does that affect?
    2) are the stock U-bolts threaded far enough up to compensate for the added 1-1/2" I'll have by removing these blocks?

    Also looking at aftermarket spring shackle brackets to lower the rear of ours 1" to 2" .... but if you are concerned with towing and load ratings, I don't think this would be the way to go for you ...
    2009 GMC Denali (Mom's daily driver)
    2010 Chevy Camaro SS (Dad's daily driver - modded L99)
    1957 Chevy Nomad (Mom's cruise car - LT1/4L60E)
    1971 Chevy El Camino (Dad's cruise car - 406ci/510hp)
    2001 Chevy Silverado x-cab sb (son's daily driver - 4.8)
    2007 Chevy Silverado x-cab sb (son's daily driver - 5.3)

    "Leavin' off the transbrake at a stoplight near you!"

  3. #3

    Default

    I plan on leveling out the rear of my truck as well, and plan on using the shackles. It seems to be fairly easy and affordable and shouldn't interfere with the towing capacity too much. Interesting to find out if it places extra stress/strain on the leaf springs though... here are some comparable products that I have found while researching for my truck.

    http://www.autoanything.com/suspensi...A6128A0A0.aspx

    http://www.streetsideauto.com/p/eiba...g-kit-3816820/

    Anyone else got advice on this? Thanks
    Last edited by MoBillyAla; 01-14-2012 at 06:33 AM. Reason: grammar correction


    2007 Silverado 1500 LT Ext Cab 4.8l, 2007 Suzuki XL-7, 2012 H-D Sportster "Seventy-Two"

  4. #4

    Default

    My guess on the shackles is it'll affect the springs somehow but I'm not sure if it'll increase the stress or relieve it some.
    I'm guessing it'll relieve some, when you use longer shackles the fulcrum effect places more stress on the springs.
    I know from lifting trucks over the last 25 years the quickest way to wear out a set of springs is to put longer shackles on.

  5. #5

    Default

    Drop shackles for GM trucks are longer than the factory because the springs sit above the shackle hanger, so by being longer they move the spring farther upward. I've never heard of anyone wearing out their springs on a GM truck by lowering it with shackles though, so I think its fairly safe that way.

    I was level the back of my silverado with drop shackles since its inexpensive, easy and doesnt change the spring rate like replacement leaf springs could have the potential to do. For a 10 year old canadian truck though, it was just more work than its worth since the best Snap-On impact gun I could get my hands on wasnt able to unseize those old shackle bolts and I didn't have the time or motivation to cut the bolts to free them.
    Last edited by pmf608; 01-14-2012 at 12:41 PM.

    2001 Silverado Reg. Cab Not-So-Base -- SOLD
    2003 Avalanche Z71. No Cladding. Check out my Mod thread.
    1974 Triumph Spitfire 1500 - Work in Progress
    2003 Sierra 3500 Duramax. The Newer, Better Work Truck


  6. #6

    Default

    To tell you the tructh I havent looked under the back of this truck yet, been to busy with other projects.

  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bowtie Junkman View Post
    I, too, am looking to lower the back of my son's truck ... although for a different purpose (he is looking for that 'pre-runner' look with the front higher than the rear) .... and let's face it, to a 17-year-old boy, things like ride characteristics and towing just don't apply.
    (PS ... our truck is a 2007 new-body 1500 ext-cab short bed 2WD)

    I looked under the truck the other day, and I see a 1-1/2" tall "block" sandwiched between the bottom side of the leaf spring and the top side of the mounting pad welded to the diff housing ... I'm wondering if I can remoce that to drop the rear about 1-1/2" (I also have a thread in the "lifted and off-road suspension" thread asking the same question)? There are 2 problems that I can see may arise by removing these blocks ...
    1) there are usually alignment dowels/holes on the leaf spring and mounting pad, so that the axle doesn't slip or 'walk' on the spring ... if I remove these blocks, does that affect?
    2) are the stock U-bolts threaded far enough up to compensate for the added 1-1/2" I'll have by removing these blocks?

    Also looking at aftermarket spring shackle brackets to lower the rear of ours 1" to 2" .... but if you are concerned with towing and load ratings, I don't think this would be the way to go for you ...
    I removed the blocks from mine,locating pins are still on the axle, dropped the rear 1 3/4 inches. I did not have to buy new u-bolts, but I have read that some people have. I did not use shackles, since I installed a levling kit up front, so far the ride is the same, eventually I plan on dropping the truck, just not sure how low I am going to go, but for now I am happy and the truck sits about 1/2 inch higher in the rear.

  8. #8

    Default

    We did the leveling kit up front and removed the blocks out back ... used same U-bolts and all .... here's how ours turned out ...

    2009 GMC Denali (Mom's daily driver)
    2010 Chevy Camaro SS (Dad's daily driver - modded L99)
    1957 Chevy Nomad (Mom's cruise car - LT1/4L60E)
    1971 Chevy El Camino (Dad's cruise car - 406ci/510hp)
    2001 Chevy Silverado x-cab sb (son's daily driver - 4.8)
    2007 Chevy Silverado x-cab sb (son's daily driver - 5.3)

    "Leavin' off the transbrake at a stoplight near you!"

  9. #9

    Default

    Mine is leveled in the back with 2" shackles. It's been that way since 2005 with no problems with the stock shocks.

    Red 05 Silverado. Ram-Air Hood w/custom paint. Cold Air Intake, Black 20" Wheels w/Polished Lip. Lowered 2" in rear, Tint, Custom Front Bumper, Flowmaster Dual Exhaust, Color Matched Grill w/Billet Inserts, Debadged Tailgate, Red LED Underdash Lighting, DDMTuning HID's - 8000k in lows & fogs. Smoked Foglights

  10. #10

    Default

    I will be installing the 2" shackles on my truck tomorrow and will try to post up some pics once done. Thanks everyone for all the input can't wait to see how my truck looks sitting level


    2007 Silverado 1500 LT Ext Cab 4.8l, 2007 Suzuki XL-7, 2012 H-D Sportster "Seventy-Two"

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