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  1. #11

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    Thanks. I'll try this. Shouldn't those two bolts come totally out and allow the hood to open with the latch mechanism still attached to the hood?
    Brian

    Quote Originally Posted by KidHauler View Post
    Bummer, dude.
    Where is the cable broken? Is there enough cable at the front where you can pull it out through the gap and activate it with vice-grips?

    To answer your questions - 13mm. Here's what I just tried to see if it will work. Use a wedge, I have a nylon one, but a lubed up wooden one would probably work.
    Wedge between the hood and grille. Try to make enough room for a 1/4" drive, 13mm socket with a long extension to fit through. It'll be tight, so go easy.
    Once you're through the gap, you should be able to work the bolts, no problem. Recover the tools when the hood is open. I DIDN'T DO THIS TO MINE, BUT I GOT THE SOCKET THROUGH...just to see.
    When your bolts are loose, I think your best bet is to lower the latch as much as possible, and cant it towards the driver side. There should be room then to use the screw driver to work the latch.
    The other thought I had is a "crows foot" wrench head, again, with the 1/4" drive. Slide the crows foot through, then try to get the extension attached. The wedge would still be handy, so would a magnet, but you'll be stuck with lots and lots and lots of 16th turns.

    Good luck,
    Brian
    1991 Chevy K1500 Silverado 4WD V8 5.7L

  2. #12

    Default

    Well, I guess that would work, too.

    I don't remember if there's a tab on the latch that slides into the core support. Let us know what you come up with...

    1999 Chevy K2500 Suburban 350
    K&N, reworked cai, Thrush cat-backs
    Vinyl, cranks, floor shift, and rear air!

  3. #13

    Default

    Success!! I got a small wood wedge in between the grill and hood until I had about a 1/4" gap, then wrapped some tape around a big crowbar (since I didn't have a large wedge) and hammered the crowbar in unit I had just over a 3/8" gap. I was then able to take the deep 13mm 3/8 socket and hammer it in sideways with the extension attached. It was downhill from there. The socket popped in passed the chokepoint and went right on the bolt. I took both bolts all the way out in about 30 seconds and the hood came right open.

    There's very little visible damage to the hood or grill. Thanks for the idea kidhauler! Now I can get a new cable from the junkyard.

    Quote Originally Posted by KidHauler View Post
    Bummer, dude.
    Where is the cable broken? Is there enough cable at the front where you can pull it out through the gap and activate it with vice-grips?

    To answer your questions - 13mm. Here's what I just tried to see if it will work. Use a wedge, I have a nylon one, but a lubed up wooden one would probably work.
    Wedge between the hood and grille. Try to make enough room for a 1/4" drive, 13mm socket with a long extension to fit through. It'll be tight, so go easy.
    Once you're through the gap, you should be able to work the bolts, no problem. Recover the tools when the hood is open. I DIDN'T DO THIS TO MINE, BUT I GOT THE SOCKET THROUGH...just to see.
    When your bolts are loose, I think your best bet is to lower the latch as much as possible, and cant it towards the driver side. There should be room then to use the screw driver to work the latch.
    The other thought I had is a "crows foot" wrench head, again, with the 1/4" drive. Slide the crows foot through, then try to get the extension attached. The wedge would still be handy, so would a magnet, but you'll be stuck with lots and lots and lots of 16th turns.

    Good luck,

  4. #14

    Default

    Good to hear you got it open. Good luck on the cable repair, and we'll look forward to your next visit.

  5. #15

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wmbriano2grad View Post
    ..........Now I can get a new cable from the junkyard.
    Sure you don't want to consider a brand new cable?????? a cable from the salv yard could be in no better shape than the one you had.

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