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  1. #11


    you my get a slight boost in city (1-2 mpg) as the truck wont have to work as hard to get moving. on highway probably the same. maybe a little lower. gonna work the opposite as it did for in town as now you are running higher rpms on the highway than before but with the rpms you listed you might drop 1-2 with the 4.56 on highway and a little less with the 4.10's. hard to say exactly so those are guestemates. when i went with my lift and 35's I did 3.73 to 4.10 and maintained my average economy (12 mpg) from stock, but I did it as my commute was mostly highway. in your case since you say you dont do alot of highway those RPMs still look really good (I sit at 2000 @65 with mine and all freeway is about 13 mpg). I would think overall you will see a small increase (hell in these getting an extra 1-2 mpg is around a 10% increase) in fuel economy either way. Being that you are going from a stock 3.42, and from reading your driving style, my .02 is that a 4.10 will give you a good mix of highway fuel economy and low end power regardless if you choose to stay with the 35's and moreso if you go down to the 33's. If your stock was 3.73 then I would have said 4.56 for the same reasons as in that case 4.10 would be too tall.
    2004 Silverado 2500 Crew Cab 4x4, AMSOIL EA air filter, Granatelli MAF sensor, Throttle body spacer, Magnaflow exhaust (true dual to 2 in 1 out muffler), 6" ProComp lift (add a leaf and 5" superlift rear block), Bilstein shocks, 35's (Cooper Disoverer ST) and 4.10 gears, Rhino Liner, EGRUSA fender Flares and widow visors, extended stainless steel brake lines, firestone airbags w/onboard air compressor, Pioneer Avic X940BT navigation, Accel backup camera.
    1960 Land Rover Series II 88
    2001 Pontiac Sunfire
    2013 Toyota Avalon Limited (Wife's Car)
    NRA Life Member

  2. #12


    Ok thanks, ill probly go with the 4.10 then, just want to have a little more power at take off while still being able to have a decent mpg
    just looking at my stock setup and it would have around 1711 rpms @ 65 so 4.10 would be right around there to keep it pretty much stock range,
    and then when i put on some 33's hopefully ill gain back more mpg, i know my new tires and rims weigh alot more my old 285's on stock rims i could move with 1 arm, these here mud tires and rims take both arms and its difficult to do that.
    Both also having my Diablosport Predator Tuner, should help out some too, got it after i put my 35's on and got like 2 mpgs increase. But i just did the basic 87 tune without adjusting it to what my truck has on it. Maybe it can realy help me out alot if i try to learn what adjustment i could make.

    2006 Chevy Silverado Crew Cab
    3" Body and 2" Level Kit by Performance Accessories
    FlowMasters American Thunder Dual Exhaust
    Cobra CB radio with a PA speaker
    Westin Brush Guard with 2 KC offroad lights
    Spectre Performance Cold Air Intake with a Airaid TBS
    35/12.50 Nitto Trail Grapplers M/T on 17x9 Ballistic Wizard Rims
    Tractor Supply Black Diamond Low Profile Toolbox, with 8' Whip antenna
    Big "Redneck" sticker and aftermarket confederate Z71 Sticker

  3. #13


    I talked to my mechanic and he recommended 456 but I think imma go with 410's but he was telling me that if I got the parts myself cause it would be cheaper since the auto parts store around my town don't have the parts for changing gears, that he would only charge for labor and said it would take hime roughly 2-3 hours per axel at 75/hourTold me shudnt be more than 1500 (with me ordering the parts) to get this done at his place, I know this is much cheaper than most placesBut this is where I need a little help, I looked for gears for my truck but unsure of the right ones to get,My rear axel is 8.5" 10 bolt and front is 8.25" 10 bolt but doesn't the front have to reverse rotation?I really dnt see a lot of sites that have the 8.25 tho, and I'm trying to get the complete install kit for both but like I said I wanna make sure I get the right stuff. So has any one ever ordered the parts them selves or got a link to help me out.Ive seen 8.2" 10 bolt but I dnt think that's right for the front, and a lot of them shows years for it and nothing I found really matches my truck, I dnt know it would still work or notThanks.

  4. #14


    these are 4.10's for the front 8.25 IFS listed on summitracing

    and for the rear 8.5

    they do list both a 1.625 and 1.626 for pinion shaft diameter though

    but definately double check application though

  5. #15


    Thanks, I remember reading somewhere that my pinion shaft diameter were 1.625 , but now that I know what I'm looking for, I can start comparing prices. I've seen jegs has some good deals on packages that come with the gears and complete install kit but haven't seen one for my front tho, if not I gotta buy it seperate.The thing I dnt like about summit racing is the shipping usually isnt the same day more like a few days from when u order it.What is a recommended brand to get get? Heard yukon and richmond gears are very good but are pricey, what about g2 gears?

  6. #16


    You will love the 4.11's. I just had a set of Yukon installed and the power is awesome and I picked up some mpg around town but it did drop off on the hwy, but I hardly go on hwy so not an issue for me. I got my gears from Randy's ring and pinion. When you call you talk to a real person and better yet they know what they are talking about.

    ________2013 4C Rated__________

  7. #17


    Quote Originally Posted by ajarman View Post
    You will love the 4.11's. I just had a set of Yukon installed and the power is awesome and I picked up some mpg around town but it did drop off on the hwy, but I hardly go on hwy so not an issue for me. I got my gears from Randy's ring and pinion. When you call you talk to a real person and better yet they know what they are talking about.
    Randy's was the one I was trying to think of the other day and couldnt so I went with summit for the link. Yukon and Richmond are good. I beleive the G2's are as well, I would just look up reviews on that and the companies sight. You will probably just have to buy the master install kit seperate from the gears but you can get it all at Randy's.

  8. #18


    Alrite i finally got my gears into my truck yesterday and got to pick it up this morning. Cost me a total of about 1200 for everything (500 for parts and 700 labor) I went with the US Standard Gears and got the Master Overhaul kit with it for (450, plus about 50 for the gear oil) I know most people recommend richmond and yukon gears for hte quiteness, but i have yet to hear any noise at all from my gears. I read that US standard gear is just pretty much the ones that yukon made (goes thru all the same process to be made ) but didnt pass their strict standards. And i look at as this, its the same exact thing (has the same model # and everything), bet if u put them side by side u couldnt really tell a difference. I read that its just the smoothness of the gears, and im sure that when the gears get worn togther (if installed correctly) that they'd smooth out just fine. But im happy with the gears and glad i didnt have to spend alot on them. Its kinda like if you buying a name brand item and then a cheaper( and not quite as well known company) brand item, its essenitally the same thing and i had cases where the cheaper thing outlast the name brand one. Kind of like i have a spectre CAI ($120) vs the K&N CAI ($350), does the exact same thing, but anyways lets get back on track.

    I've put about 100 miles on it so far, just trying to get the gears broke in. I can really tell a huge difference where its alot easier to get my truck moving, no longer have to push the gas down to move my big tires. and driving around town i've gotten about 3 mpg increase which is awesome (about 14-15 mpg), my highway mpg is staying the same roughly at about 14mpg ( 60mph) @ 1500 rpms.
    Just wondering after you break in the gears do you see any more of a increase(cause of less resistance ) or does it stay about the same?
    Hopefully after a put about another 200 miles on it i can give the thing some gas and see what it can do. Lol trying so hard not floor it right now, just taking it easy on take off.

  9. #19

    mfleetwood's Avatar
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    Jul 2010
    Denver, CO
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    Congrats on getting your new gears in. Anyway you slice it up, this isn't an inexpensive pill to swallow. I know you mentioned you were probably going to go with the 4:11s; however, you did not say which ones you actually got. In any case, your truck is now much more fun now, isn't it?!?!

    I'm not a gear expert, but when I got my gears installed, the break-in period was explained to me that it was to ensure the gears seated properly vs the lessening of resistance. I did not notice any differences after my 500 miles or so were up.

    Mike (Denver, CO) - 2008 Sierra 1500 Z71 SLE 5.3L 4WD

    SUSPENSION: Rancho 4" Suspension Lift; Rancho RS9000XL Shocks; Rancho Skid Plates; Rancho MyRide Wireless Shock Controller;
    BFG All Terrain KO 315/70/17
    DRIVE TRAIN: 4.56 Gears; Detroit TrueTrac Differential; True Cool 40k Transmission Cooler
    PERFORMANCE: DiableSport Predator Tuner; Custom Tuned by Diablew; Magnaflow Exhaust; AFE Cold Air Intake
    ELECTRONICS: Kenwood DNX6180 Touchscreen; Subthump box w/10" Kicker; Driver Information Center (DIC); Rear View Camera
    ACCESSORIES: Westin Brush/Grill Gaurd; Westin Nerf Bars; Truxedo Tonneau; 20% Tint; Tow Mirrors w/Heat & Signals

  10. #20


    Yea it wasn't as bad as I thought, figured it would around 1500 when I first started looking around. But yes I went with 4.11 gears, yea its much more fun now lol especially when I get to hit a mudhole.Alrite I figured it would be the same,

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