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Thread: Front end work

  1. #1

    Default Front end work

    I got new tires for my pickup and i am not going to put them on until i get my front end work done and then put the tires on with the alignment. My inner tie rods are shot. While i am in there i am going to replace the outer tie rods and the idler arm and pitman arm. The passenger side inner tie rod has lots of movement and might have egged out the center link, so i am going to go ahead and replace it too. I was thinking about putting in all MOOG parts so i get the best. If anyone has any better brand suggestions or tips for this job i would be awesome to here them. Also i wanted to know if a 1999 K1500 would have a steering damper on it because i have not had a chance to get under it and look really closely.
    Tony-1999 Chevy 1500 z71 4x4

  2. #2


    You can't beat Moog parts. Go over to and check out their prices. Their catalog will inform you if you need a steering damper.
    Good Luck and God Bless

  3. #3


    Moog is the greatest but I go MasterPro cuz I'm a poor white kid growning up in the white ghettos of St. Amant. But I need an entire front end replacement, ball joints upper and lower, tie rods inner and outer, pitman arms, and eventually wheel bearings.

    If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger cheater bar.

    1999 GMC Sierra SLT Z71 | 5.3 "Vortec" | Spectre "Cold Air Intake" | TransDapt TBS | Hypertech 30005 Tune | 2005 Chevy Tail Lights | Denali headlights | Grill Mounted Fog Lights | AWS Bug Shield | 265/70/16 Futura Scramblers | Boss HD Speakers | 2005 Overhead Console | Flowmaster Super 40 mufflers 2N1O | Mostly stock-ish
    Bigger Amp Alternator | Electric Fans | Transmission Fluid cooler | Paint (Halfway there)| Interior Restoration/Upgrade with newer model parts | Window Visors (In channel) | Tint | Low-Profile Tool Box | LEDs throughout stock cab locations (68% Done) | And whatever is spurr of the moment
    CVN-69 "IKE-ATRAZ" AIR/V-2 Gear Dawgs

  4. #4


    If i replace the idler arm. Do i need to replace the idler arm bracket

  5. #5


    Definitely go with moog. If you don't have a damper and want one, just buy an after market and put it on
    Last edited by Pikey; 02-08-2012 at 12:15 PM.

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors,
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  6. #6


    moog is not half as good as they used to be in the 90's, i prefer trw or napa parts now.

    moog has really cheapened their parts over the last 10 years, i noticed a big difference when they switched to making the parts out of the country, especially ball joints.
    my 88 sas "mudwasp"
    88 chevy k2500, started as reg cab lb, now reg cab shortbox, sas 17'' of lift, 52'' front springs f.i. bbc , 79 dana hp 60 chevy outers, 14bolt ff spooled divorced 205 and cut 40'' gumbos
    1998 k3500 gmc crew cab dually L65 6.5TD 4l80e with a couple of mods

    bouncing truck avatar creator

  7. #7


    Thanks for all the help everyone i got all my parts in and on my pick up. got my new tires on and an alignment done. The pick up drives like a dream like new. I am loving it. Oh and thanks to whoever suggested rock auto because thats who i used and they were awesome. Here is a picture of the tires i put on. Click image for larger version. 

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