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02-15-2012, 07:14 PM #11
Don't be led into believing that the engine heat is what damages the PMD; they can produce more heat internally than what they are exposed to in the engine compartment. They need to be mounted on a device designed to dissipate heat, and kept where there is constant air flow as long as the truck is running. The Heath kit is drastically overpriced! We actually have a truck at work that "had" his kit on it and had to have the PMD replaced in less than a year. Not worth the high price he charges -- The warranty, that's just so he can replace the PMD without actually having to eat the cost himself -- since you already paid for two PMDs.
The most important things to address are maintenance items like I mentioned before. Don't replace the lift pump with anything that provides more than 9psi of pressure...... The pump is not designed for it and it will either blow out the seals or you can severely damage the injection pump.Have You Smoked A Hemi Lately? Why, Yes I Have!
2008 Sierra RC/SB, Iron Block 5.3L(LMG), 3.42, Locking Diff, HD Cooling, HD Suspension, Towing Package.
Raptor Stainless Steel Step Bars, Folding Tonneau Cover, DiabloSport Predator
02-16-2012, 12:15 AM #12
My Heath PMD relo kit has been installed since around 2000. Before that my 95 had 4 pmd replacements. I have 7 psi at all times at the filter housing. Only because factory items failed over time I made a fuel system worthy of a racecar. I have a Holly black pump with a stainless mesh prefilter and regulator after the pump. 8an line out of the tank to the pump and pump to the filter housing. I copied the feed the beast kit and ran 6an from the filter housing to the injection pump. I also deleted the bleeder valve from the filter housing.
02-16-2012, 08:57 AM #13
Which bleeder did you delete? Water drain valve?
02-16-2012, 12:49 PM #14
Yes I got rid of it. If I should ever get a water in fuel all I have to do is crack open the AN line fitting. I wanted to get rid of all rubber line in the fuel system after having it leak several times in several places. Not to mention AN fittings make it easier to take apart and work on.
02-17-2012, 06:05 AM #15
So you removed the water drain valve? That is the worst thing you can do! So if you get water, which many of my customers have despite regularly draining it, you have to wait until the WIF lamp comes on.... At that point it's likely too late and you'll also end up replacing the injection pump. The system should be regularly checked/bled to assure you don't get any water to the pump; one drop can trash it and/or injectors. That's why GM and the manufacturers put those valves in the system.
02-17-2012, 02:22 PM #16
So replacing the fuel filter and removing the filter housing for cleaning every oil change (3000miles) isnt enough? Not to mention cleaning my stainless mesh pre lift pump filter? As I said should I ever see water in the fuel I'll drain it though the AN fitting/hose connection.07 ECSB Z71 LT 5.3
04 RCSB Regency 4.8
95 ECLB 4x4 6.5TD
92 Sonoma GT 4.3
76 RCSB C10 454
02-19-2012, 09:10 AM #17
Changing the filter that often is great and often recommended, cleaning the entire housing that often is probably overkill, but certainly not a bad idea. However, if you ever got a tank of bad fuel, by the time that WIF light came on could be too late to prevent water from hitting the pump. The water drain valve and the 'out' line to the IP take fuel from different parts of the filter housing; the water drain is pre-filter and lower in the housing vs. the actual out to the IP. Removing the line to the IP will not allow you to remove the water in the housing as it's taking that fuel post-filter and from a higher point in the housing. This is how the system can keep the water isolated in the housing until it gets drained.
If it were my truck, I'd be sure to travel with tools in the event I got a bad tank of fuel. You could be SOL to get the water out without removing the housing and feed line to dump water. I've known several people traveling who had this happen and had to stop to drain water every 20 miles or so. A few weren't even this lucky and had already toasted their pump before the WIF light came on.
04-05-2012, 08:40 PM #18
Thanks for the info everyone. I have the truck in the driveway now. I have replaced the glow plugs ,glow plug controller i added a pmd kit with heat sink and changed the starter. Up next is the exhaust a turbo with intercooler ant that will be all for this truck.2000 Ls s10 V8 extended cab drag truck
1999 s10 Ls Droped 2.2L
1998 s10 blazer red stock
1985 s10 blazer 5 speed v8
1982 4X4 355ci 450hp k1500 trail truck
1978 4x4 short bed F150 460ci 540hp mud truck on 38.5 super swampers boggers
04-05-2012, 09:11 PM #19
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Well you have made the right choice,,, to pull your mudder where ever you wish ,,, my only concern is your mudder a GM too!!!! heheheh cause if it is a ford... you know you could be running into some conflicts on the road ....lmao just funnen,,, i have some hot fords as well......!!!!!!!
04-08-2012, 01:30 AM #20
Dirty dog. The 2 trucks I have for mudding are 1982 chevy short bed 6in lift locker front and rear 456 gears 35in tires built turbo 350 trans with shift kit 355ci 450hp.
The other is a 78 ford F150 short bed 9 in super lift 513 gears front and rear with spools 38.5in super swampers boggers c6 trans with shift kit big block 460ci.
Last edited by Quad racer#212; 04-08-2012 at 01:33 AM.
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