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Thread: How do you get stuck drums off?
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02-17-2012, 10:04 AM #11
if u got the dough go to a rental store and get u a small compressor and an air chisel. i had to use one on my old jeep. 3 different sledge hammers homemade expander. [a clamp cut in half flip them backwards and put the halfs of c clamp back on the big screw n when u turn the arm of the clamp it pushes out instead of in] didnt work. air chisel just chisel turn it some chisel turn it some more chisel etc etc. that got mine off.
---------- Post added at 11:04 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:01 AM ----------
or rent a ductile iron cutoff saw made buy stihl. just cut the drum off. when all else fails its sometimes what u gotta ive had to use a cutoff wheel to get stuck bolts off the brake caliper once. hey u could also try pb let it soak n dry then get a propane torch and het it then hit with a sledge. or try the opposite and get a can of that freeze off. might be cheaper.
02-17-2012, 01:09 PM #12
This thread frightens me.
I did my '91 rear drum brakes. I really hate drum brakes. I'm on my second front brake job on my '98. I haven't even looked at the rears, but I suspect it is time. I almost want to splurge for the disc conversion just so I don't have to deal with this.
---------- Post added at 11:09 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:25 AM ----------
This thread frightens me.
I did my '91 rear drum brakes. I really hate drum brakes. I'm on my second front brake job on my '98. I haven't even looked at the rears, but I suspect it is time. I almost want to splurge for the disc conversion just so I don't have to deal with this.
02-17-2012, 01:17 PM #13
We're not at that point with these yet. Holey cow, cutoff saw? Air chisel?
Maybe I could drill out the 4 bolts in the axle flange and just toss out the axle and all.
---------- Post added at 02:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:11 PM ----------
Don't worry, My '99 has spent the better part of the last three years sitting in the prior owner's yard. He kept the battery charged and the fuel good, but didn't drive it any more than to keep the tires from settling in with a huge flat spot.
You probably won't see them stuck on. Driving keeps the brakes hot and DRY.
02-19-2012, 11:23 PM #14
Vinegar is really good at breaking corrosion. So is gasoline, but be very careful with the petrol!
02-29-2012, 08:57 PM #15Newbie
- Join Date
- Aug 2011
- Posts
- 3
99 K1500 here, and I went through your experience a few years back. If you have the lug nuts off and the brake shoes backed off, on a K1500 there's nothing else but rust holding the drum onto the axle. You're doing the right things - soak it in Liquid Wrench or PBlaster and have at it with the BFH. Repeat until successful. It will come off eventually, keep at it. Good luck!
03-01-2012, 07:20 AM #16
I should have updated this a week ago. Absolutely - having decided to purchase new drums if I managed to dent the existing ones, I just hauled of and BFH'ed the beeeeJeeeezzus, out'n the danged thangs. They popped off, dent free. (I have a couple of EXPENSIVE woodworkers straight edge guages to tell) THEN I had the same problem with both wheel cylinders. Can't believe how tight those things were rusted to the backing plate. Got 'em off.
Everything's back together.
Apparently old brake shoes soaked in brake fluid don't work very well. Now that I have new shoes and wheel cylinders, the rear brakes actually work. I only have to push about 2/3 as hard as before even though the old shoes were almost full thickness. I think as well lubed as the old shoes were, they'd have lasted another 100K miles. 
The "E" brake works now too. It'll hold on an incline in "D" and "R". YIPPEE.
03-01-2012, 07:40 AM #17Newbie
- Join Date
- Aug 2011
- Posts
- 3
Excellent!!!!
03-01-2012, 11:01 AM #18
Sweet!
Do you wanna do mine, now?
1999 Chevy K2500 Suburban 350
K&N, reworked cai, Thrush cat-backs
Vinyl, cranks, floor shift, and rear air!
03-01-2012, 02:29 PM #19
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