What brand u-joint you use for 2001 suburban drive shaft?

[bazar01]

My first post. I have a 2001 Suburban with 140k miles bought new. So far, it has been a very good one. I tow a 6 x 10 enclosed trailer with no issues until lately my burb whole chassis will vibrate when I reach 68-70 mph. I drove the rear wheels up on a ramp and checked the driveshaft with the transmission in neutral. I found a bad front universal joint and the one close to the diff is good. I feel I can tackle this job and it looks really easy to drop the driveshaft.
Question. Will a u-joint from car quest be ok or do I have to get the factory joint which is about $90 a piece?
Thanks.

[Boonduff]

The last AC Delco u-joint I bought was a total piece of @*#", the grease seals were junk and the overall quality of the casting was poor. The best u-joints I have found are Spicer u-joints. They aren't the cheapest, but less then what you'll pay at a dealer and the quality is worth it.

[bazar01]

Thanks for the reply.

I was told by the carquest guy the same thing about Spicer u-joints. He did not have it so I opted for their store brand which ran me $40 for both. I marked the yoke assembly with spray paint (so I can put it back the same way), dropped the driveshaft which I found very easy and very light one-piece aluminum tube. Armed with just a 10-inch c-clamp and 27mm sovket, I was able to push out the old joints and push in the new ones. A 1.5 hour job. Drives smooth like new again. Now, transmission flush next.

[kennyb79]

i've got an 03 with 190,000 on it. I've had it fr the last 50,000 miles and has the same vibration issues. I asked them to check the u-joints when I had them redo the gas line this winter. they said they were fine, but I still think I'd feel better if I changed the you joints. I'm glad to see it wasn't a bad job, I've had joints in the past that I've done with my dad that were a real pain.