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Thread: Rear Seal

  1. #1

    Angry Rear Seal

    Yesterday my Change Engine Oil Light came on, figured it was a bit early so I reset it. Pulled in my driveway and my check engine oil level light came on in the Message Center...barely any oil on the dipstick. I've had enough of this rear main seal crap and I want to change it. Anyone know the turnaround time on this and about how much it'll cost? I have an engine lift so I'll probably wind up doing it myself with my dad's expertise soon. It'll probably wait till after I go to McComb on Tuesday. Whats the turnaround time and cost?



    If at first you don't succeed, chances are, you are using too small of a cheater bar

    Current:
    1999 GMC Sierra SLT Z71 | 5.3 Vortec | Spectre Cold Air Intake | TransDapt TBS | Hypertech 30005 Tune | 2005 Chevy Tails | Denali headlights | AWS Bug Shield | 265/75/16 Mastercraft Courser A/T | "Ghetto" painted tailgate | Boss HD Speakers | 2005 Overhead Console | Dual Thrush Turbo Mufflers
    Future:
    Bigger Amp Alternator | Electric Fans | Oil/Trans Fluid cooler | Re-done exhaust | Paint | Interior Restoration/upgrade with newer model stuff | Window Visors (In channel) | Tint | Low-Profile Tool Box | LEDs throughout stock cab locations | And whatever is spurr of the moment
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  2. #2
    Master Mechanic Jimmeh's Avatar
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    Well, the seal itself isn't very expensive, but it is extremely labor intensive. Just replaced one in my Ranger in September and it took my dad and I about 5 hours to drop the transmission, but only about 5 minutes to replace the seal. Another 5 hours, and it was all set back up.
    2005 Chevy Silverado W/T
    4X4|4.8 with some mods (has only slightly more pull than a 5.3)|Auto|4 door ex cab|Cooper Discoverer AT/3's in 285-75/17's on Helo 842's|Cooper Discover M+S 265-75/17's on Devino DV349's|Flowmaster 40 Single in Dual out with custom bent pipe from the end of the cats back|2" Procomp leveling kit|Custom made center console|Custom dyno tunes|Air Raid CAI|Air Raid Throttle Body Spacer|Apex brand topper|Kenwood Head Unit with Kenwood speakers|Painted mirrors/grille|Debadged except front emblem|Bilsteins front and rear
    Planned mods not in order
    2 inch lift|Custom front/rear bumper|hitch tire carrier|roof basket on topper, bars on cab|finish center console build|install Midland CB|Power options|Tint|Custom made raised bed in the bed of the truck|Lund LunarVisor
    Also have a 1992 Ford Ranger with a lot of stuff done to it. Currently waiting for a bit of a rebuild.


    "The only woman I'm pimping from now on is Sweet Lady Propane. And I'm tricking her out all over this town."

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmeh View Post
    Well, the seal itself isn't very expensive, but it is extremely labor intensive. Just replaced one in my Ranger in September and it took my dad and I about 5 hours to drop the transmission, but only about 5 minutes to replace the seal. Another 5 hours, and it was all set back up.
    Think I can just drop the trans and replace it or do I need to pull the eninge out and do it?



    If at first you don't succeed, chances are, you are using too small of a cheater bar

    Current:
    1999 GMC Sierra SLT Z71 | 5.3 Vortec | Spectre Cold Air Intake | TransDapt TBS | Hypertech 30005 Tune | 2005 Chevy Tails | Denali headlights | AWS Bug Shield | 265/75/16 Mastercraft Courser A/T | "Ghetto" painted tailgate | Boss HD Speakers | 2005 Overhead Console | Dual Thrush Turbo Mufflers
    Future:
    Bigger Amp Alternator | Electric Fans | Oil/Trans Fluid cooler | Re-done exhaust | Paint | Interior Restoration/upgrade with newer model stuff | Window Visors (In channel) | Tint | Low-Profile Tool Box | LEDs throughout stock cab locations | And whatever is spurr of the moment
    US Navy Sailor :sign0011:

  4. #4
    Master Mechanic Jimmeh's Avatar
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    I've never done it on a full size or a V8 before, but I know with the Ranger, I just removed the cross member and dropped the trans down. As many times as I've changed the oil on the truck, I honestly don't know how it's set up, lol. I would imagine you could just drop the trans, but again it's still going to be a pain because there is a LOT you have to disconnect/unbolt/swear and yell at. It's worth the savings in labor costs at a shop, but only slightly.
    2005 Chevy Silverado W/T
    4X4|4.8 with some mods (has only slightly more pull than a 5.3)|Auto|4 door ex cab|Cooper Discoverer AT/3's in 285-75/17's on Helo 842's|Cooper Discover M+S 265-75/17's on Devino DV349's|Flowmaster 40 Single in Dual out with custom bent pipe from the end of the cats back|2" Procomp leveling kit|Custom made center console|Custom dyno tunes|Air Raid CAI|Air Raid Throttle Body Spacer|Apex brand topper|Kenwood Head Unit with Kenwood speakers|Painted mirrors/grille|Debadged except front emblem|Bilsteins front and rear
    Planned mods not in order
    2 inch lift|Custom front/rear bumper|hitch tire carrier|roof basket on topper, bars on cab|finish center console build|install Midland CB|Power options|Tint|Custom made raised bed in the bed of the truck|Lund LunarVisor
    Also have a 1992 Ford Ranger with a lot of stuff done to it. Currently waiting for a bit of a rebuild.


    "The only woman I'm pimping from now on is Sweet Lady Propane. And I'm tricking her out all over this town."

  5. #5

    Default

    Disconnecting stuff I can handle I know theres not really alot of room up there either. Just not exactly sure if its the rear main or the oil pan gasket is shot.



    If at first you don't succeed, chances are, you are using too small of a cheater bar

    Current:
    1999 GMC Sierra SLT Z71 | 5.3 Vortec | Spectre Cold Air Intake | TransDapt TBS | Hypertech 30005 Tune | 2005 Chevy Tails | Denali headlights | AWS Bug Shield | 265/75/16 Mastercraft Courser A/T | "Ghetto" painted tailgate | Boss HD Speakers | 2005 Overhead Console | Dual Thrush Turbo Mufflers
    Future:
    Bigger Amp Alternator | Electric Fans | Oil/Trans Fluid cooler | Re-done exhaust | Paint | Interior Restoration/upgrade with newer model stuff | Window Visors (In channel) | Tint | Low-Profile Tool Box | LEDs throughout stock cab locations | And whatever is spurr of the moment
    US Navy Sailor :sign0011:

  6. #6

    Default

    I'd much rather drop the trans and attack it that way, then pull the motor with all that pluming and wiring. If it's a pan gasket you'll need to jack the motor and drop the pan.
    I am a American solder, I am a member of the finest fight force on earth, I am the bump in the night. I will defend the United states of American Against all enemies both foreign and domestic. Repent now all those who would do my nation and it's people harm; For when we come it will be too late.



    2011 GMC Sierra SLE, Z71 with 5.3 l and max tow/haul package

  7. #7

    Default

    When my dad did his he just moved the trans back enough to get in there. He also said that he replaced the front trans seal while he was there.

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  8. #8

    Default

    Last time I did a rear main seal it was a a lot of stuff to do but not hard really....had to drop the exhaust, pull the drive shaft (easy), disconnect the torque converter from the flywheel, unbolt the bell housing from the motor, block the motor, and pull the tranny. Take off the flywheel, and it is right there. On some engines you have to drop the rear of the oil pan. Nothing was extremely difficult, just a lot of time and effort. Certainly, replace the front tranny seal while the tranny is out of the car....it would be really dumb to leave in the old seal and then bittch that it leaked in a month or two....ugh
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    2011 GMC Sierra HD 2500
    6.0L, Extended Cab, 4x4, 3.73
    2013 Flagstaff "V" Lite, 30', 7300#

  9. #9

    Default

    I was watching one of the power block shows on Spike a few weeks ago. They were building a motor and I believe it was an LS motor. When they were putting on the oil pan gasket I seem to remember that part of the oil pan gasket was the rear main seal. I could be wrong cause my memory isn't what it used to be.

  10. #10

    Default

    The rear main seal in my wife's 93 Suburban (350) started leaking. A buddy of mine that used to be a mechanic told me that some of them had a two part seal that could be accessed by just dropping the oil pan and replaced from the inside. How can I tell if mine is that way without actually having to drop the pan first. If the transmission needs to come out, I'll have the shop do it, if not, I'll probably do it.


    Does anyone know anything about this two piece seal and how to tell if thats what I should have?

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