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Thread: 4x4 actuator problems Help
02-27-2012, 12:02 PM #1
4x4 actuator problems Help
so ive had this actuator problems all winter. ive had no 4x4 all winter. so i took off the connector to the actuator and cleaned with electronic cleaner. still no operation. so i unplugged and unscrewed it and wired it off the battery. it didnt do anything. i left it plugged in on the battery for a while and it pushed out a little bit but not enough. shouldnt the actuator push out almost immediately. also if there is an electrical problem is it possible to put a HD switch in the cab to actuate it. is there a fuse in the fuse panel on 88-98 trucks is it one of the aluminum fuses? i really need help on this one. Does the tight squeeze in the hole aid in the gas expansion to help push that actuator out. could that be the reason it doesnt push out far. sorry for the rambling but without 4x4 the truck is pointless. fishin season is pretty much here and no way am i backing my boat down a bank without it. please help.
03-03-2012, 11:59 AM #2
summit sells a mechanical actuator kit.. it completely goes around the electrical part .. works kinda like a pto set up on a dump truck.. i thought my actuator was bad and thats what i was going to buy .. its about the same price as a new actuator. the only downfall of it is that you have to manually lock the front diff when you shift into 4x4 via a cable lever.. And from what i hear they are less prone to failure .
03-03-2012, 10:13 PM #3
im actually thinking of getting one of the manual actuators. if i remember right. posi lok makes the kit. its all in one kit. screw this heated thermo actuator. whos wise idea was it to make something operate when heated when at times it got 15 below here. that means no 4x4 in the snow for josh. thats always a fun ride. im also thinking about manufacturing my own lock system. fab a bracket cable and a unilever to operate on the diff. if i do i will for sure do a write up.
03-05-2012, 09:18 AM #4
They also make a kit, 1000
which is just the body and a slide rod, you would have to lay on the ground and loosen a set screw, but alot cheaper near $70
or you may be able to modify your thermal the same way
Last edited by GM-Guy; 03-05-2012 at 05:36 PM.
03-05-2012, 02:26 PM #5
so instead of having the hole cable it would be kinda as if i had locking hubs. cept it would be under the truck. that would prolly work but right now im watchin cashflow cause i just did my control arm bushing. p.s. sucky job.
03-05-2012, 06:02 PM #6
when i had this problem this guy told he just had some sort of bolt behind the pin which permanently locked the front diff ..
03-05-2012, 06:53 PM #7
wonder if it prematurely wore it out. if gm designed it to lock in and out. id assume it will eventually screw somethin up.
03-06-2012, 01:49 PM #8
I have the newer TCCM controlled actuator, but the throw to fully engage is only 3/4"
I'm not using mine thru the computer, so when needed, I can just unscrew it and throw a 5/8" Nylock in there
Not sure if the Thremal is any different, but assume it's not as the newer unit can be retrofitted with some addl wiring
03-06-2012, 07:05 PM #9
Check for power at the brown wire ..at actuator. no power check encoder on transfer case top.
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