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  1. #1

    Default Transfer case, front drive shaft, or what? Any ideas?

    My 2004 Chev Suburban Z71 4WD started making grinding like sounds that I couldn't really locate (my hearing isn't as good as it was when I was younger - I'm 54 now). Anyway, last year I'd replaced my front right wheel bearing assembly and the sound was similar so I replaced the left front (that didn't help, but at least I've got that done since with 190,000 miles, it was destined to go, right?).

    Ok, so I surmised it might be coming from the rear so I replaced both carrier bearings (next to the differential), both wheel beaings, and last week the rear drive shaft universal joints (I didn't have the driveshaft rebalanced due to budgetary reasons though I wanted to).

    Next, I got word from a friend that his suburban made a similar noise and it turned out just to the fluid in the transfer case. Today, I drained my own transfer case and I did notice some metalic feel to the fluid though it could have been normal wear and tear. Still, the noise remains.

    I'm contemplating changing the universal joints on the front axle, but I'm uncertain how difficult that is.

    Does anyone have a suggestion?
    Bill - Charlotte, NC (originally from Los Alamitos, CA & UC Irvine)
    I do all my own car repair and try to do it right the first time
    Owner - RLSTATE.com - a NC and SC residential & commercial real estate firm dedicated to helping buyers find the right home at the right price representation at the right time: in real estate, you MAKE MONEY when you BUY ... NOT when you sell!

  2. #2

    Default

    Depending on the type of grinding noise, my first suggestion was going to be the u-joints... but, it sounds like you got to that already!
    I like you.

  3. #3

    Default

    Does the noise happen all the time, in 2 wheel or 4?
    Is it consistent or on & off?
    When was last time you did your brakes?
    Everyday I wake up is a great day! ;-)
    05' Chevy Suburban, 11' Ford Fiesta

  4. #4

    Default

    Had a bad grinding noise last year...was transfer case. Seal went bad when on trip and didn't catch leak in time...lost all fluid. But the noise I had was bad! So bad that I didn't dare drive over 20 mph. Good luck.
    Tom LaVergne
    1999 2500 4x4 Suburban
    Central Ohio

  5. #5

    Default

    Hello, I have a chevy 2003 suburban that has all power train (engine, transmission, front axle, rear axle, and all u joints!).
    Not real happy but hope to have a burb that last forever!
    Back to the question, I had a growling noise in the back on a trip to iowa last year.
    Upon inspection by the local auto mechanic, the rear axle had to be replaced due to wear from over heating in the axle.
    I was shown the old parts and could tell the heat damage.

    stprovost

  6. #6

    Default

    The rear pinion bearing went bad in my 2003. But, it was a whining noise. Take it to a local rear end shop, they should test drive it for free and tell you what is going on. I also had a bad bearing on the driverside of my front diff.

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by stprovost View Post
    ...Not real happy but hope to have a burb that last forever!...
    stprovost
    That's my thought. I have put more money into my 1999 3/4 ton this year then it is worth. However, they don't make them like this anymore. I have 125,000 miles and no rust so I will try keeping mine running for a long time. Hopefully I am done with repairs for a while but even so it is cheaper than car payments. Just hope I can afford to keep gas in the beast.
    Tom
    Tom LaVergne
    1999 2500 4x4 Suburban
    Central Ohio

  8. #8

    Default

    Did you do the driver side, front diff bearing yourself? Can you remove the axle flange without removing that half of the differential? I tried yesterday, but couldn't get it to budge (suspect the circlip was holding too tight) ... is there a way to get it to loosen it's grip (one person said putting the vehicle in high 4 will do it ... haven't tried yet).
    Bill - Charlotte, NC (originally from Los Alamitos, CA & UC Irvine)
    I do all my own car repair and try to do it right the first time
    Owner - RLSTATE.com - a NC and SC residential & commercial real estate firm dedicated to helping buyers find the right home at the right price representation at the right time: in real estate, you MAKE MONEY when you BUY ... NOT when you sell!

  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wbmartin3 View Post
    Did you do the driver side, front diff bearing yourself? Can you remove the axle flange without removing that half of the differential? I tried yesterday, but couldn't get it to budge (suspect the circlip was holding too tight) ... is there a way to get it to loosen it's grip (one person said putting the vehicle in high 4 will do it ... haven't tried yet).
    I did not do it myself. I had the rear pinion bearing and the front diff done at the same time. When i pulled the drain plug on the front diff it was covered in so much metal that I could not stick it back in, so I had all bearings replaced in it. The gear shop guy said that there are tabs that hold the adjuster screws for the gear lash in the front end, those tabs tend to break or bend out of the way and let the screws move causing the lash to be incorrect. My manual says that you should be able to remove it with a slide hammer. Same with the bearing.

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  10. #10
    Jr. Apprentice
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Las Vegas, Nv
    Posts
    15

    Default

    If it sounds like its coming from the trans it could be the last "C" clip at the end of the tail shaft. Mine broke and it sounded like it was trying to shift (whine and grinding noise). My burban is a lot older though 92 so it might not be it on yours.

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