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  1. #1

    Default Upper balljoint replacement

    Today that "shop" told me that to replace the upper ball joints that I'd have to buy a whole new upper A arm and have it installed and now I am skeptical as to if this is true or not. Seems like they can be pressed in and out just like the lower A arms but without all the griping and money spent.



    If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger cheater bar.

    Current:
    1999 GMC Sierra SLT Z71 | 5.3 "Vortec" | Spectre "Cold Air Intake" | TransDapt TBS | Hypertech 30005 Tune | 2005 Chevy Tail Lights | Denali headlights | Grill Mounted Fog Lights | AWS Bug Shield | 265/70/16 Futura Scramblers | Boss HD Speakers | 2005 Overhead Console | Flowmaster Super 40 mufflers 2N1O | Mostly stock-ish
    Future:
    Bigger Amp Alternator | Electric Fans | Transmission Fluid cooler | Paint (Halfway there)| Interior Restoration/Upgrade with newer model parts | Window Visors (In channel) | Tint | Low-Profile Tool Box | LEDs throughout stock cab locations (68% Done) | And whatever is spurr of the moment
    CVN-69 "IKE-ATRAZ" AIR/V-2 Gear Dawgs

  2. #2

    Default

    from what i can tell from my trucks repair book even tho my truck is 1 gen older than yours it has full instructions of removing and installing upper ball joints. you should only need to replace the arm if there was damage to it in some way.

    1996 Chevy Tahoe LT 5.7L V8 4X4 205,000+ miles. Built proudly at Janesville Assembly in Janesville, Wisconsin
    Basic mods: Lights all over, bunch of electrical work, and a couple cooling mods.

    Check out my other mods in My Garage: http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...t-Tahoe-4-Door

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