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  1. #11

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    Hello, Mr. Murray:

    That is a lot of miles. From my many years of buying cars and restoring a few, here is my two cents:

    Interior: I have a '94, and I can tell you that GM has discontinued most or all of the interior trim panels for our rigs. So make sure it has intact panels and that they have not been repeatedly removed for some reason, because they have very thin mountings for the clips and they routinely break off upon removing them (the clips are very tenacious in gripping sheet metal). Carpet can be replaced with aftermarket reproduction, and you can get aftermarket door panels upholstered in the factory colors from LMC. Seats can be reupholstered by a good upholstery shop to look original or like something else.

    Exterior: Rust is not your friend. Too much is a reason to not buy the truck. Check all points where the body mounts to the frame. Some rust will absolutely not be visible unless the rig has the glass removed and is disassembled. That stuff you can't worry about unless you are tearing it down to do a bare metal repaint. But there are other places it can show up such as mounting points, rocker panels and under the carpeting near the door entry areas or under the area where the driver's feet are usually sitting. Any extensive rust on the cab sheet metal is going to be very labor intensive to repair. Also check the tailgate and around the tailgate for rust.\

    If it is in good cosmetic condition, you can fix any mechanical issues. You don't want a truck with a lot of cosmetic problems, because it is expensive and labor intensive.
    1994 Chevy K2500 Silverado, 454 (modified), original owner.
    And other vehicles and toys.

    "...If you can meet with triumph and disaster
    And treat those two imposters just the same;
    ...you'll be a Man, my son!" Rudyard Kipling

  2. #12

    Default

    @The Heater whats best way to deal with surface rust on the frame? sand its then reapply the protective paint or is there better way. my tahoe has alot of surface rust on it but it isnt flaking off.

    1996 Chevy Tahoe LT 5.7L V8 4X4 205,000+ miles. Built proudly at Janesville Assembly in Janesville, Wisconsin
    Basic mods: Lights all over, bunch of electrical work, and a couple cooling mods.

    Check out my other mods in My Garage: http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...t-Tahoe-4-Door

  3. #13

    Default

    It depends on how much room you have to get tools in to work on the area.

    The "best" way is to remove the body from the frame and have the frame disassembled and soda blasted or blasted with walnut shell/garnet mix. This is not what most people want to do with a daily use vehicle, however.

    Working with the body on the frame limits your choices. Wire brush (on a drill or if room, a wire wheel on a grinder) to remove loose rust and dirt; sand with emory cloth; sand with regular sand paper if necessary; treat bare metal immediately after getting it bare with "Metal Prep" (sold in paint departments of box hardware stores and at auto body supply stores). Last item is a phosphoric acid and water product you dilute and apply with steel wool. Follow instructions. Wear splash goggles. This product can badly damage your eyes.

    This product keeps the metal from oxidizing prior to applying paint. It also will dissolve mild rust, which is one reason to apply it with steel wool.

    If there is rust still left after surface preparation, you can let it dry to a white haze and paint over it with an anti rust primer, then finish it in black.

    Eastwood sells a good frame paint in black. Some of their products will go over rust without much surface preparation. I would at least browse their web site as they specialize in products for those of us who restore cars. They do have rust removal products. I however use methods listed above for my work.

    You can also use an electric angle grinder with an abrasive disc attached (Norton makes various grades), if you have room to use it, and it can in most cases take off all the rust without taking off too much metal in the process. If you don't have such a grinder, look at Milwaulkee (I have one) or Makita or Bosch.

    If the rust is not bad, you may only need to wire brush with a drill, sand a little and then go over it with the Metal Prep/steel wool. I keep all grades of steel wool around for different surface conditions.
    Last edited by The Heater; 03-14-2012 at 02:45 PM.

  4. #14

    Default

    thanks for the info. as u can see in my pic and info i live in conneticut and the salt they put on the roads eats cars the orig owner kept the truck clean so theres luckly minimal rust. ill check out their site and i was already gonna buy an angle grinder to sharpen my lawn mower blades. im more of a ryobi person my self i have the one+ system one battery 40 tools its great.

  5. #15

    Default

    A plug in grinder will do more for you than a battery powered unit. I suggested the other brands because they make units that can be serviced as far as brushes and the armature is rebuildable. But I buy spendy and just keep it forever, and rebuild it if it wears out.

  6. #16

    Default

    like ur truck . i kid i kid. yah ill look in to it and look in to some wire brush kits for my drill.

  7. #17

    Default

    Let us know how that works out for you. Please share any new ideas you made work, or your impression of any paint you use to cover the area you worked on.

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