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Thread: Brake lines!

  1. #1

    Default Brake lines!

    I have a 1996 k 1500. would I gain anything from running larger brake lines? would it help my pedal not be so squishy, or seem to have to push a long ways. hey dont go to the floor by any means. I looks like the lines were replaced and they look really small. any thoughts would be great thank you.

  2. #2

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by RAV52202 View Post
    I have a 1996 k 1500. would I gain anything from running larger brake lines? would it help my pedal not be so squishy, or seem to have to push a long ways. hey dont go to the floor by any means. I looks like the lines were replaced and they look really small. any thoughts would be great thank you.
    I had the same issues you've mentioned, regarding the Soft Mushy feel in the brake Pedal when Braking......I then bought a set of Stainless Steel Brake lines, from Russell and I No longer have the soft mushy feel when braking, and less travel in the pedal when braking, I now have a Much Firmer feel in the pedal, I would also mentioned, that if you do go with SS Brake Lines, this would be a very good time to Flush the Brake Fluid.
    Last edited by 99'HEARTBEAT; 03-23-2012 at 11:50 AM.

    MIKE


    99"SILVERADO
    5.3 l 3.73 l G80
    BLACK BEAR CUSTOM TUNE
    SNUGTOP l COLORMATCH l KATZKIN










  3. #3

    Default

    Switching to larger diameter lines would actually make your brakes less effective. Your master cylinder will always move the same amount of fluid, increasing the diameter of the lines will decrease the line pressure, making the pedal even softer. The cheapest and easiest way to firm up your pedal is to do as 99 heartbeat suggested and switch the rubber lines for braided stainless steel replacements. The stainless lines do not expand as much under pressure, which allows that pressure to be sent directly to the calipers and wheel cylinders.

    97 Chevrolet Suburban K1500 5.7L
    78 GMC High Sierra K1500
    Fat, drunk, and stupid is no way to go thru life.

  4. #4
    Jr. Apprentice
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Southern Oklahoma.. ICK
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    Default

    What he said..

  5. #5

    Default

    If your pedal is soft and travels too far, you need to find out why. First off, check to make sure your rear shoes are properly adjusted. That hardware does wear and is susceptible to rust. Too much shoe to drum travel will cause your problem. Also, check for leaking wheel cylinders while you're there. You may need to replace them (easier, quicker, and cheaper to replace vs rebuild them these days). Naturally, there MAY be air in the lines, but unless you've run it too low of fluid or opened a line somewhere, that isn't likely.
    Good Luck and God Bless
    Remember that if you're not part of the solution, then you're part of the problem!

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Revredneck View Post
    If your pedal is soft and travels too far, you need to find out why. First off, check to make sure your rear shoes are properly adjusted. That hardware does wear and is susceptible to rust. Too much shoe to drum travel will cause your problem. Also, check for leaking wheel cylinders while you're there. You may need to replace them (easier, quicker, and cheaper to replace vs rebuild them these days). Naturally, there MAY be air in the lines, but unless you've run it too low of fluid or opened a line somewhere, that isn't likely.
    Good Luck and God Bless
    YES. Couldnt be said any better

  7. #7

    Default

    Thanks for all the In put. I will have to do the ss brake line upgrade and go from there. I will also check my shoes and make sure everything is adjusted up.All info is helpful.

  8. #8

    Default

    If you are looking for better performance you could always do the rear disc brake conversion. I have seen prices ranging from $400 to $1,000 for the kits. I have always wanted to do the conversion on my 95, but never have the cash. Stopping those 38.5" tires can get nerve racking at times

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

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