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Thread: oil seal problem
04-05-2012, 08:19 PM #1
oil seal problem
Ok so my rear output shaft seal (aka rear transmission seal, extension seal or rear transfer case seal) started leaking. so I am thinking its an oil seal and those are pretty easy since I have done lots of them. Well this happens to be the oil seal from HELL. The replacing it was easy, but it keeps leaking. I have replaced it with a NAPA seal, an AC Delco (at $80), backed the seal out some and put gear oil RTV and re-seated, and just put in a Timken seal. All start leaking once I start driving. I made sure that all surfaces were clean etc (like I said I have done plenty of seals). even went back and made sure it was fully seated all the way around but still leaks. Its getting real frustrating so looking for ideas, since I am just thinking about putting some darn epoxy along the outside seal edge and TC housing. now looking at the TC housing the inside lip area is nice and smooth and round but the outer lip isnt nice and flat (but the sealing should be on the inside). The gun range will make me feel better for about 10 minutes but it will still be leaking.
A little drivetrain back story: A while back I had the carrier bearing replaced. since then I would get a random knocking in the driveline. Looks like the driveline would somehow spin not like it should and was hitting on a lip on the bearing housing. Bending the lip back helped and it only did it once or twice more. I also noticed when I went to put the driveline back in that the drive shaft was not in a straight line horizontally and I had to do some work with the position of the bearing to get it to almost be nice and straight (assuming its the fault of the new bearing housing as that is when the driveline issue started). I am almost wondering if the driveline not being in straight damaged something a little at the seal and that is why I cant get it to seal properly.
Everything is functioning properly except the seal so at this point I am just looking to see if anyone has any ideas on sealing the leak.
2004 Silverado 2500 Crew Cab 4x4, AMSOIL EA air filter, Granatelli MAF sensor, Throttle body spacer, Magnaflow exhaust (true dual to 2 in 1 out muffler), 6" ProComp lift (add a leaf and 5" superlift rear block), Bilstein shocks, 35's (Cooper Disoverer ST) and 4.10 gears, Rhino Liner, EGRUSA fender Flares and widow visors, extended stainless steel brake lines, firestone airbags w/onboard air compressor, Pioneer Avic X940BT navigation, Accel backup camera.
1960 Land Rover Series II 88
2002 Nissan Altima (My Commuter)
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04-05-2012, 08:44 PM #2
What exactly is leaking? Is it where the seal seats in the housing where the two mating surfaces are not moving relative to each other or is it where the rubber lip seals against the rotating drive shaft?2000 GMC YUKON SLT, 5.3L tow pkg, G80 rear/w 3.73 gear
04-05-2012, 09:29 PM #3
Did you get drive line balanced after changing the carrier bearing? If you had to beat on line any will be out.
Not much to a rear trans seal ..if it leaks mating surface must be bad. Drive line maybe messing seal up from the git go.RESIDENT NUT.....MY CLAIM TO FAME .....
04-05-2012, 09:55 PM #4
04-05-2012, 10:41 PM #5
04-05-2012, 11:31 PM #6
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Sorry, I am no help, but did want comment on your pics with the arrows and text. Very nice! It would be great if that could become the standard here
Mike (Denver, CO) - 2008 Sierra 1500 Z71 SLE 5.3L 4WD
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04-06-2012, 01:47 AM #7
Ugh, David, that is, indeed, the seal problem from hell. Given what you've tried, so far, I'm inclined to think use of a seal -plus- gasket maker might make sense ... and afterthat's dried (without driving the truck, yet), do an external seal using permatex or an epoxy as you'd mentioned.
04-06-2012, 06:41 PM #8
I have had the same problem on my 85' chevrolet silverado k10, i replaced the shaft seals on it, but it turned out it was the transmission main seal. So i replaced the whole transmission(tranny was blown anyways). Always lube up your seals.
2002 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 z71 1985 Chevrolet Silverado k10 2006 Chevrolet Silverado 2500hd 6.6l LLY Duramax 6.5" BDS Suspension Lift Key'd to 9" Edelbrock Carb & Polished Intake Manifold & Valve Covers NAPC Race Transmission & NAPC Built Transfer Case EFI Live Comp Cam and Valvetrain Snow Performance Methanol Injection 35" Toyo Open Country Mud Terrain on 18" Ion Alloy 179's Headman Long Tube Headers and True Dual Exhaust FASS 150gph Titanium Series Pump AirAid Cold Air Intake with K&N Dry Filter & AirAid PowerAid Throttle Body Spacer 2" Suspension Lift 33x12.50r15 Tires PPE Tuner until i tune it with my EFI Live Pacesetter Long Tube Headers with Cats Gone True Dual Exhaust FlowPro 3.73 Gears Yukon Grizzly Locker with Mag-Hytec Cover & Traction Bars NGK Iridium Tips & MSD Ignition Plug Wires Baja Spare Tire Holder Leveling kit & 34.5" Nitto Grapplers 18" XD Rims Innovate LC-1 Wideband o2 Sensor x2 HID's all around LED taillights and 3rd brake light BDS Dual Steering Stabilizers Pioneer Double-DIN Touchscreen Navigation with Two 10" Subs under rear seat Electric Fan Autometer Pressure, Boost, and Pyro Gauges 4.56 Gears AFE Stage 2 Intake
04-06-2012, 09:50 PM #9
I would think that the drive shaft would have beat the snot out of the original seal and MAYBE been a little hard on the tail shaft. Could there be some hairline cracks where the seal is seated? A little far out there but given your background I would not suspect installation errors and have to start looking for unordinary problems.
04-07-2012, 12:30 AM #10
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