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  1. #11

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    I aslo wanted to tell you that you will have to use 17 or larger wheels. 16's won't clear your brakes.

  2. #12

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    Larger diameter tires means fewer tire rotations in a given distance ... which translates to less opportunity for your brakes to do their jobs in that given distance. Thus, you should definitely consider brake upgrades. I'm rolling on 17's with rotor, pad, and line upgrades and it's adequate. If I had to do it over again I'd be rolling on 18's with rotor, caliper (i.e. big brake kit), pad, and line upgrades.

    You'll likely want semi-metallic pads for better heat dispersion than ceramics offer, as this translates to reduced tendency for rotor warpage. You'll likely want slotted rotors for heat dispersion, as well; avoid drilled ones as they tend to crack. You'll likely want stainless steel lines to improve pedal feel ... as longer lines (due to the lift) will make your pedal mushy without them. The big brake kit is optional and spendy. I have adequate stopping power without one ... but I don't tailgate people in my truck. If your driving tendency entails tailgating ... or short-stopping ... then consdier a big brake kit, too.

  3. #13
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    I think everybody above has you pretty much covered. The only items I will add is to ensure you follow through with your planned mods of a tune to cover your tire size and gear changes, skid plates, and nerf bars. Just keep in mind that the nerf bars also double as rocker protection while off-roading, so you choose them wisely. If you take a close look at some of the pics in my album, you'll notice that my nerf bars are scratched deeply and appear as though they are mounted higher than typical ones. Both the scratches and the pushing up effect of the nerf bars were caused by large rocks (mainly from turning on very tight trails with an extremely large vehicle, relatively speaking). If those bars weren't there, I would have had to spend a fortune in new doors and getting panels fixed.


    Mike (Denver, CO) - 2008 Sierra 1500 Z71 SLE 5.3L 4WD

    SUSPENSION: Rancho 4" Suspension Lift; Rancho RS9000XL Shocks; Rancho Skid Plates; Rancho MyRide Wireless Shock Controller;
    TIRES:
    BFG All Terrain KO 315/70/17
    DRIVE TRAIN: 4.56 Gears; Detroit TrueTrac Differential; True Cool 40k Transmission Cooler
    PERFORMANCE: DiableSport Predator Tuner; Custom Tuned by Diablew; Magnaflow Exhaust; AFE Cold Air Intake
    ELECTRONICS: Kenwood DNX6180 Touchscreen; Subthump box w/10" Kicker; Driver Information Center (DIC); Rear View Camera
    ACCESSORIES: Westin Brush/Grill Gaurd; Westin Nerf Bars; Truxedo Tonneau; 20% Tint; Tow Mirrors w/Heat & Signals

  4. #14

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    4.56's will be a lot easier on your driveline, i wouldn't recommend anyone going to 35" tires without re-gearing. unless you have a duramax or any newer diesel to turn those tires. 4.10's may work for your daily driving, but once you get off the road, you'll wish you had those 4.56's, the RPM i run at in my 2002 is around 2100 RPM with 35" tires, and 4.56 gears. IF you plan on keeping your truck for a long time, definitely go with BDS, it has lifetime warranty. I wouldn't recommend anything but.
    www.youtube.com/ippielb
    2002 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 z71 1985 Chevrolet Silverado k10 2006 Chevrolet Silverado 2500hd 6.6l LLY Duramax
    6.5" BDS Suspension Lift Edelbrock Carb & Polished Intake Manifold & Valve Covers NAPC Race Transmission & NAPC Built Transfer Case
    EFI Live Comp Cam and Valvetrain Snow Performance Methanol Injection
    35" Toyo Open Country Mud Terrain on 18" Ion Alloy 179's Headman Long Tube Headers and True Dual Exhaust FASS 150gph Titanium Series Pump
    AirAid Cold Air Intake with K&N Dry Filter & AirAid PowerAid Throttle Body Spacer 2" Suspension Lift 33x12.50r15 Tires EFI Live & AFE Stage 2 Intake
    Pacesetter Long Tube Headers with Cats Gone True Dual Exhaust FlowPro 3.73 Gears Yukon Grizzly Locker with Mag-Hytec Cover & Traction Bars
    NGK Iridium Tips & MSD Ignition Plug Wires Baja Spare Tire Holder 33x13.5 Hankook rt03 18" XD Rims
    Innovate LC-1 Wideband o2 Sensor x2 HID's all around LED taillights and 3rd brake light
    BDS Dual Steering Stabilizers Pioneer Double-DIN Touchscreen Navigation with Two 10" Subs under rear seat
    Electric Fan Autometer Pressure, Boost, and Pyro Gauges
    4.56 Gears Airlift Air Bag Suspension

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by mfleetwood View Post
    I think everybody above has you pretty much covered. The only items I will add is to ensure you follow through with your planned mods of a tune to cover your tire size and gear changes, skid plates, and nerf bars. Just keep in mind that the nerf bars also double as rocker protection while off-roading, so you choose them wisely. If you take a close look at some of the pics in my album, you'll notice that my nerf bars are scratched deeply and appear as though they are mounted higher than typical ones. Both the scratches and the pushing up effect of the nerf bars were caused by large rocks (mainly from turning on very tight trails with an extremely large vehicle, relatively speaking). If those bars weren't there, I would have had to spend a fortune in new doors and getting panels fixed.
    The tune will be happening shortly after the lift, gears, etc are done. I won't do any harm by driving around without the tune for a bit, will I? The only reason I ask is because whether I go with Blackbear or Diablew, I won't be able to do it same day due to having to either do it remotely with their hardware mailed to me or I'll have to drive to them, which won't be a short drive.

    As far as nerfs, the ones I'm planning to get are RBP RX-3 Series Nerfs. Reason 1: I just love the way they look. Reason 2: They look like they should be able to handle some abuse. Do you have thoughts on these nerfs regarding protection?

    ---------- Post added at 07:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:27 PM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by ippielb View Post
    4.56's will be a lot easier on your driveline, i wouldn't recommend anyone going to 35" tires without re-gearing. unless you have a duramax or any newer diesel to turn those tires. 4.10's may work for your daily driving, but once you get off the road, you'll wish you had those 4.56's, the RPM i run at in my 2002 is around 2100 RPM with 35" tires, and 4.56 gears. IF you plan on keeping your truck for a long time, definitely go with BDS, it has lifetime warranty. I wouldn't recommend anything but.
    I agree with you and am already planning to get the 4.56 at the same exact time I do the lift and tires. I don't plan to drive it even 5 feet on the stock gears with those tires. That's one of the biggest reasons I want to plan everything out. I'm going to make sure I have the money set aside for everything so it can all be done at once and done correctly.

    ---------- Post added at 07:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:28 PM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by SurrealOne View Post
    Larger diameter tires means fewer tire rotations in a given distance ... which translates to less opportunity for your brakes to do their jobs in that given distance. Thus, you should definitely consider brake upgrades. I'm rolling on 17's with rotor, pad, and line upgrades and it's adequate. If I had to do it over again I'd be rolling on 18's with rotor, caliper (i.e. big brake kit), pad, and line upgrades.

    You'll likely want semi-metallic pads for better heat dispersion than ceramics offer, as this translates to reduced tendency for rotor warpage. You'll likely want slotted rotors for heat dispersion, as well; avoid drilled ones as they tend to crack. You'll likely want stainless steel lines to improve pedal feel ... as longer lines (due to the lift) will make your pedal mushy without them. The big brake kit is optional and spendy. I have adequate stopping power without one ... but I don't tailgate people in my truck. If your driving tendency entails tailgating ... or short-stopping ... then consdier a big brake kit, too.
    I don't tailgate. I love my truck too much to do something stupid. The only thing I do is take my foot off the gas when someone tailgates me and then floor it when they try to pass me. But I've also been called a jerk rather often. It amuses me though....

    As far as the brakes, do you have any specific manufacturers in mind? Brakes are something I'd like to do at the same time as the lift and tires just to have it done. I'll be running the 20s for daily driving and when I do get the offroad set, it will be 18s based on the responses here, so ideally there shouldn't be any issues. I wouldn't mind a big brake kit. But how much are we talking?

    To Be Completed (Eventually):
    6" BDS Suspension lift | KingShocks Front and Rear Coil Overs | 4.56 Gears | 35" A/Ts (TBD) | Cervinis 07-12 Silverado Ram Air Hood | Fab Fours Front Winch Bumper (CS07-H2051-1) | Fab Fours Full Size Rear Bumper (CS07-W1850-1) | RX-2 Series Main Grille (Black) | Line-x Bed and wheel wells | Skid Plates | Rizor Automated Tonneau Cover | Custom Bed Insert | RBP RX-3 Series Nerf Bars | Kenwood Excelon DNX9990HD | JL Audio Stealthbox (2x500RMS) | JL Audio HD 1200/1 Class D Mono Amp | JL Audio C5-653 Components (Front) | JL Audio C5-650 Components (Rear) | JL Audio Slash v2 300/4v2 Class A/B Amp

  6. #16

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    Alright, so now I'm putting the final touches on my plans with all your help and it's now time for the stupid questions. So I'm looking at the Kingshocks coilovers to pair with the BDS 6" lift. I can add the braided steel brake lines so that's covered. If I'm doing the front and rear coilovers, that covers the spring and dampener, so that'll replace the leafs, correct? That's the stupid question.

    And lastly, I have the option of adding traction bars as well. Should I add them as well? Why or why not?

  7. #17

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    Alright, so I did more homework. Traction bars prevent axle wrap. Axle wrap is obviously bad. However, every article or thread I looked at spoke of axle wrap as a condition plaguing leaf sprung vehicles. Does this mean axle wrap only really plagues leaf sprung vehicles? If so, since i'd have rear coilovers, I don't need the leafs which means I don't need traction bars?r

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeremy09LTZCrew View Post
    The tune will be happening shortly after the lift, gears, etc are done. I won't do any harm by driving around without the tune for a bit, will I? The only reason I ask is because whether I go with Blackbear or Diablew, I won't be able to do it same day due to having to either do it remotely with their hardware mailed to me or I'll have to drive to them, which won't be a short drive.

    .....

    As far as the brakes, do you have any specific manufacturers in mind? Brakes are something I'd like to do at the same time as the lift and tires just to have it done. I'll be running the 20s for daily driving and when I do get the offroad set, it will be 18s based on the responses here, so ideally there shouldn't be any issues. I wouldn't mind a big brake kit. But how much are we talking?
    You'll want a tune to correct speedo error after you move to bigger tires. You can do this, yourself, with a DiabloSport Predator, Trinity, or InTune. (The last of these is the newest and is available for 07 and newer vehicles, so you should probably get that one.) You could then do a custom tune with Lew and get all your logging and such done. You could then have Lew send you a re-tune for your 4.56 regear when it's done so that you can load it to the vehicle before you drive away; else your ABS and parking light may come on (and ABS is disabled when that light is on!) This is what I did and it's one of the reasons I chose DiabloSport over Blackbear. Blackbear tunes are just too static for my taste.


    I prefer Hawk pads and PowerSlot rotors for my own application. EBC pads and rotors run a close second with me.

  9. #19

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    I did some looking at some big brake kits yesterday. Yeah, those aren't cheap. It's something I wouldn't mind pondering at some point though. However, that point is a ways off since my wife won't be offroading in the truck even after I get the lift so I can wait on something like that. I don't think some slightly bigger rotors and better pads are a bad idea though.

    As far as the tune, yeah my ideal situation is being able to plug in the new tune before driving away on the lift. I'm not sure how I'd work that though. As it stands now, I'd have to get my wife to do the driving around and getting settings and I don't think she'd prioritize it real high as she wouldn't get the point. Another option is to wait until I'm all done with my time here, but honestly, I just don't want to wait another year to do the lift.

  10. #20

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    Damn man, I got excited reading your thread just now haha. I'm not entirely keen on the in/outs of off-roading vehicles and the rest involved (obviously as I praise the lowered haha) But I'm definitely lookin forward to seeing how all this comes together in the future! Glad you're doing lots of research too, I've seen several projects fall to pieces due to the lack of research! Really the only thing I can relate on in this thread would be the brake upgrades haha. I'm actually looking into SSBC's 14" rotor 6 piston caliper kit and also their 12" rotor 3 piston caliper drum/disc conversion kits.

    Anyways.. lovin the thread bro!

    "If you're not living life on the edge, You're taking up too much space"

    "Truck Norris"
    - 2008 TX Edition Silverado
    - McGaughy's 4/5 Drop Kit
    - Apline Type R 10s & Amp
    - Pioneer 6 Disc Touchscreen Deck
    - Nightmare Breed Motorsports custom tune
    - Custom 3" dual exhaust through x-pipe dumped at axle
    - Airaid CAI
    - Badges and molding removed, roll pan, Truxedo roll-up cover (compliments of GMTC!), 3pc billet grille, factory fogs upgrade
    "Kristine" - 1991 Nissan 240sx
    - Cut to pieces, LS build pending

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