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  1. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeremy09LTZCrew View Post
    As far as the tune, yeah my ideal situation is being able to plug in the new tune before driving away on the lift.
    You don't need the tune for the lift. You -DO- need it for the bigger tires to correct speedo error. You also need it for gearing changes. This means you could do the lift and leave the tires stock and be just fine ... and tires/wheels are the kinds of things that could be quickly done once you came back. Same for brake pads and rotors.

  2. #22

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    Thanks, I'm happy I'm finally getting the ins and outs and able to really use the knowledge here to help. But yeah, I don't expect people to just give me the answers. Like I said, I want to understand WHY the answers are the answers. I've known since I got the truck I wanted a lift, but I haven't gotten one yet for two reasons: 1) I needed to get the money together and with kids and a family that takes some time, and 2) I wanted to do it right the first time and not go back and wish I'd saved a bit more or done something differently.

    As far as the brakes, I'm looking at almost the same brakes. I'm looking at the 14" rotor quad piston fronts only because the minimum wheel size on the 6 piston is 20" and I don't want to go over 18s when I buy my offroad wheel/tire set. I'm looking at the same conversion set for the rears though. Like I said above, that will be lower on the priority list though since I won't really have a use for the extra stopping power until I get back and start playing with it which will be a while. Right now I'm laying the plans and figuring out the order. Right now my immediate plans are: Get the hood and bed repaired (this will happen as soon as my wife gets in touch with the insurance company). Then get the bed linexed and get the bed cover. Then I'm getting the RBP RX-3 nerfs. Then it's the grille, rear bumper, lift, coilovers, tires, gears, retune. I'm guesstimating about 4-5 months to get this stuff done.

    And believe me, there will be pictures of every step along the way.

    ---------- Post added at 10:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:28 PM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by SurrealOne View Post
    You don't need the tune for the lift. You -DO- need it for the bigger tires to correct speedo error. You also need it for gearing changes. This means you could do the lift and leave the tires stock and be just fine ... and tires/wheels are the kinds of things that could be quickly done once you came back. Same for brake pads and rotors.
    Yeah, this is where I start debating. What I don't want is a big lifted truck with tires too small for it. I hate that look. But, I also just got brand new tires last month, so it'd be kind of a waste to just replace them. And I'm not going to spend all this time doing things right, then go and get tires, but not gears. I'll probably get in touch with Diablew and see if we can put our head together and figure out a good approach. I also have a couple of months to sweet talk my wife into working with me on it. Tires are the easy part if I need to do that later. The gears I'd rather just get done at the same time as the lift since it'll already be getting the other work done.

    To Be Completed (Eventually):
    6" BDS Suspension lift | KingShocks Front and Rear Coil Overs | 4.56 Gears | 35" A/Ts (TBD) | Cervinis 07-12 Silverado Ram Air Hood | Fab Fours Front Winch Bumper (CS07-H2051-1) | Fab Fours Full Size Rear Bumper (CS07-W1850-1) | RX-2 Series Main Grille (Black) | Line-x Bed and wheel wells | Skid Plates | Rizor Automated Tonneau Cover | Custom Bed Insert | RBP RX-3 Series Nerf Bars | Kenwood Excelon DNX9990HD | JL Audio Stealthbox (2x500RMS) | JL Audio HD 1200/1 Class D Mono Amp | JL Audio C5-653 Components (Front) | JL Audio C5-650 Components (Rear) | JL Audio Slash v2 300/4v2 Class A/B Amp

  3. #23

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    As far as the coilovers go mine are only on the front. The rear is just a spring pack. The only upgrade is an upgraded shock w/remote resevoir. You asked about axle wrap. That is the main reason why I don't like lift blocks in the rear. If you put a block in the rear it increases the likelyhood of the axle wraping. Unless you are bolting on some serious power adder (turbo/supercharger/NOS) I wouldn't think axle wrap wouldn't be a big issue.I may be wrong on that. As far as your tires go once you get the new ones sell the old ones to help off set the cost. That is something I am sure your wife would be for since it is helping to pay for the other stuff.
    Man I can't wait for you to get back so we can see what this monster is going to look like.

  4. #24

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    Alox, if he's going to be wheelin' in the desert then axle wrap may be a concern that justifies rear springs, as it's a condition that occurs not just with a lot of power ... but also under heavy load (HEAVY towing, pulling a sled, dune hopping, and the like). He absolutely doesn't need to worry about it for tarmac driving or light off-roading ... but running in the desert at speed may make the extra cash for rear springs worthwhile. At the very least traction bars would be a solid consideration for his desert application, as well...

  5. #25

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    In order to put springs out back he would have to redo his rear suspension and put a 3 or 4 link in which is a bit of cash. But I would agree Sur that going the mulitlink route will reduce if not eliminate any possibility of axle wrap because of the design of that suspension. Which is what Trophy trucks run. I am not totally against traction bars. If it was a truck like mfleetwoods that is used in the mountains for wheeling that would be a different story. Why? Because the traction bars hang down. So the chance of them getting beat up on rocks and other things like that higher. Now in dune and sand running that probably isn't a big issue. I can't speak on that subject cause I have not had the chance to do any desert running. I have driven in the sand just not desert like sand.

  6. #26

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    The more i read about it, the more curious i am.. can someone please explain exactly what axle wrap actually is so I can get a visual on it?

    "If you're not living life on the edge, You're taking up too much space"

    "Truck Norris"
    - 2008 TX Edition Silverado
    - McGaughy's 4/5 Drop Kit
    - Apline Type R 10s & Amp
    - Pioneer 6 Disc Touchscreen Deck
    - Nightmare Breed Motorsports custom tune
    - Custom 3" dual exhaust through x-pipe dumped at axle
    - Airaid CAI
    - Badges and molding removed, roll pan, Truxedo roll-up cover (compliments of GMTC!), 3pc billet grille, factory fogs upgrade
    "Kristine" - 1991 Nissan 240sx
    - Cut to pieces, LS build pending

  7. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by 08_rado_rocker View Post
    The more i read about it, the more curious i am.. can someone please explain exactly what axle wrap actually is so I can get a visual on it?
    For every action there is an equal and opposite reaction. When you step on the gas while on a surface providing adequate traction to your wheels, your wheels turn one way and the axle tries to turn the other way. Your axle is, of course, attached to your leaf springs. When the axle begins to twist in the opposite direction of your wheels, it will also twist anything attached to it (i.e. the springs) --- changing driveline angles.

    Under normal loads and conditions this is not much of an issue. However, realize that it's rotational energy (torque) that is being applied to the springs by the axle. Adjust the distance from the axle to the springs (via lift blocks) and you have changed the location of the fulcrum ... and also changed how much energy it takes to get an axle wrap condition ... making the condition more likely.

    As for what can happen with an axle wrap condition -- broken U-joints, driveshafts, and the like. Here's an extreme example:
    Last edited by SurrealOne; 04-08-2012 at 08:59 PM.

  8. #28

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    Ahh, yeah that makes sense. Cool, thanks for enlightening me bro! Not trying to threadjack you Jeremy, was just curious haha!

    "If you're not living life on the edge, You're taking up too much space"

    "Truck Norris"
    - 2008 TX Edition Silverado
    - McGaughy's 4/5 Drop Kit
    - Apline Type R 10s & Amp
    - Pioneer 6 Disc Touchscreen Deck
    - Nightmare Breed Motorsports custom tune
    - Custom 3" dual exhaust through x-pipe dumped at axle
    - Airaid CAI
    - Badges and molding removed, roll pan, Truxedo roll-up cover (compliments of GMTC!), 3pc billet grille, factory fogs upgrade
    "Kristine" - 1991 Nissan 240sx
    - Cut to pieces, LS build pending

  9. #29

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    No worries Rado. I didn't know what it was at first either. But of course Surreal had to just jump right in with the perfect answer to a question I actually COULD have answered for once, lol.

    So Aloxdaddy99 and SurrealOne, if I want to redo the rear suspension to get away from leafs, what additional am I going to need to get that done? How much extra are we talking? If it's a whole lot with minimal advantage, I might just go the traction bar route, but if it's an option I might be able to justify, I'd like to go the coilover and leaf replacement route. There's no point in rear coilovers if I'm keeping the leafs, right?

    And as far as the desert runs, my friend's a jeep guy. He has a lifted XJ. He's always talked crap about my huge crew cab truck trying to be offroad. But ever since I've started making plans for this lift, he can't wait for me to get my truck down there and wants to drive it himself. I have some other plans to finalize the transformation as well, but I won't get into that until I get this lift done. One thing at a time....

    To Be Completed (Eventually):
    6" BDS Suspension lift | KingShocks Front and Rear Coil Overs | 4.56 Gears | 35" A/Ts (TBD) | Cervinis 07-12 Silverado Ram Air Hood | Fab Fours Front Winch Bumper (CS07-H2051-1) | Fab Fours Full Size Rear Bumper (CS07-W1850-1) | RX-2 Series Main Grille (Black) | Line-x Bed and wheel wells | Skid Plates | Rizor Automated Tonneau Cover | Custom Bed Insert | RBP RX-3 Series Nerf Bars | Kenwood Excelon DNX9990HD | JL Audio Stealthbox (2x500RMS) | JL Audio HD 1200/1 Class D Mono Amp | JL Audio C5-653 Components (Front) | JL Audio C5-650 Components (Rear) | JL Audio Slash v2 300/4v2 Class A/B Amp

  10. #30

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    I've never priced/spec'd/investigated a leaf replacement so you're outside my area of expertise when asking what's involved and what it'd cost.

    As for your friend's XJ versus your crew cab in the desert, the XJ can more easily go over steep dunes than you ... and you can do so more easily than I can. It's a wheelbase thing.

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