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Thread: New system
04-06-2012, 09:31 AM #1
- Join Date
- Mar 2009
- East Greenville Pa
Hi everyone I am looking to put some new speakers and amps in my 2011 Silverado Crew Cab. I need some recomendations and reasons why you think that would be best. What I am looking for is crispness and clarity with some bass. I have about $1000 to $1500 total for everything speakers amps subs sub box and wireing. I am planing on using the factory head unit for now. I was thinking that I should put in some high quality speakers in the doors and have an amp that will put about 100 watts per channel. Also go with 1 sub nothing that is going to blow out the windows just need good bass sound. Was thinking something around 500 watts with a seperate bass control this way when the baby is in the truck I can turn it down.
Thanks in Advance Rich
04-10-2012, 09:37 AM #2
- Join Date
- May 2011
- Bridgeville, PA (Pittsburgh)
First question... do you plan on having this wired at your local shop, or are you doing the wiring yourself? Only reason I ask is because that affects the price.
Second question... do you have the bose system on your vehicle or not? this affects the wiring and adapter you will need to purchase.
As for the sound system, it is completely preference as I'm sure many people on here will tell you. Everyone has their own brands and what they prefer. Personally I like Kicker products. From my experience they are top notch, have amazing sound quality and are reasonably priced.
Here is a list of kicker products that I would reccomend:
Kicker CompVR 10" 4ohm - Be sure that no matter what sub you decide to go with that it's 4ohm, this way you can wire it to 2ohm to get the most out of it.
Kicker ZX400.1 - This amp is matched perfectly to run with the subwoofer mentioned above, as well as the CompVT which is the same sub just a shallow mount model.
Kicker KS65.2 - These speakers are components, therefore they would be for the front. I personally run the RS series and they're amazing.
Kicker KS65 - These speakers are 3-ways so they would be in the rear. I have RS compnents in the back as well as the front, but that would be up to you.
I would also recommend adding an aftermarket head unit. I used my stock head unit at first so that I wouldn't lose the warranty, but after hearing the sound quality I switched within 3 days. It sounded as if I had a slight alternator whine through the sub, and the sub was running at nearly 25% its full capability. I basically wasted $150 for 2 different adapters and installation. In my opinion it's always best to switch out the head unit before anything else.
When using the links above, be sure to click on the right model if your looking at the specs. Their amp comes with a bass control knob, so if you adjust your settings in the head unit to max performance then you can adjust the bass quickly from the knob. I didn't post anything for the sub enclosure because that depends on how you want it mounted. You can look at under seat boxes, a box on top of the seat, or have something custom made. That's really user preference.
The products listed above should be right within your price range. As always, check with your local audio supplier as they may have insight on other products or ideas.
If anyone has any additional info, thinks I'm incorrect, or missed something feel free to criticize!2010 Red Silverado Crew Cab Z71 LT
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Magnaflow Dual Exhaust
Alpine Touchscreen Headunit
4 Kicker RS Componet Speakers
Kicker 12" L7 subwoofer w/ Kicker ZX1500.1 Amplifier
04-10-2012, 09:58 AM #3
- Join Date
- Mar 2009
- East Greenville Pa
I have a friend that used to do installs so we will be doing it most likely. Its not the boes system.
04-26-2012, 01:12 AM #4
Kicker makes sub woofers that fit in small enclosures (Solobaric is the product line, at least it used to be that name) and do not require large amounts of power to make very good sound. I have had them in a couple of vehicles. My truck is one such vehicle.
If you get a Kicker Solobaric then a 500 watt amplifier is overkill and may even be too much power for the sub. If you have a head unit with a separate sub woofer channel with control for it including low pass frequency adjustment, you don't need a "separate volume control" for the amplifier. If your baby is in the car, you will likely have the entire system turned down anyway. At least I sure hope so.
I only buy US made amplifiers. Everything I own, and I own a lot of amplifiers, are old school competition type units. I still like Soundstream Reference series amplifiers even though they are now made overseas. They have a very good design, including power supplies that will reduce the output of the amplifier if the voltage drops below a certain value ( I don't remember what it is but it is for when you run the amplifier at higher volumes with the ignition off, which is never a good idea for your battery or the amplifier).
I posted in another similar thread you started that I like the 5 channel amplifier for someone in your shoes. It covers all the speakers including the subwoofer. You just have to get something that has conservative ratings on the power, has a stable power supply with proper protections from voltage drops, and I really think you do not need anywhere near "100 watts per channel" unless you are talking about some rating other than RMS power.
I run A/D/S 345is components (made in USA) in my truck doors. They are very power hungry speakers and they are rated to handle a lot of power. But my Soundstream Reference 405s is rated 40 watts per channel and I think maybe about 125 watts for the sub channel. It blasts plenty loud. The 8 inch Kicker Solobaric sub has plenty of power. But this amplifier is underrated, like the old Orion amplifiers. Still, at running alternator voltage it has way less than "100 watts per channel".1994 Chevy K2500 Silverado, 454 (modified), original owner.
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