Results 11 to 20 of 24
04-19-2012, 04:37 PM #11
You can absolutely rebuild your alternator. Do not get a remanufactured one, rebuild yours.
Having said that, I firmly believe in having them rebuilt by those who do it for a living and possess the fund of experience and knowledge to make sure all issues are addressed in the rebuild. They have equipment that is way to expensive and not practical for a homeowner to buy. They would be testing the rectifiers, for one thing. There are ways to see if they are starting to fail, for example. When one of those goes, the alternator cannot recharge your battery or supply the correct current to supply your vehicle's needs.
Another thing they would do is test the output of the alternator under a load and without a load, and perform tests to make sure it functions properly.
Lastly, they can tell if the armature needs to be turned, which usually is a good idea, or whether it is too worn to turn, in which case it must be replaced. Simply replacing brushes does not give you a free pass out of jail on this particular issue. The armature (or stator) has windings. These heat up and the insulation can melt or otherwise deteriorate with age, causing the armature to malfunction. Usually it manifests itself as lower output, not necessarily a complete failure.
So as you can see, you can backyard this project, sure. But why even spend your own valuable time on it if you miss something and this thing pukes on you half way up Pikes Peak or Siskiyou Pass? Or coming home in a rain storm?
You should have an auto electric shop somewhere around where you live that will take those parts you ordered and test this thing and put in your parts for you and give you something that is sure to work for as you say "another 100K".1994 Chevy K2500 Silverado, 454 (modified), original owner.
And other vehicles and toys.
"...If you can meet with triumph and disaster
And treat those two imposters just the same;
...you'll be a Man, my son!" Rudyard Kipling
04-20-2012, 06:33 AM #12
Thanks for the suggestions.
I know my limits. If upon opening up and I see a damage that will need machining (worn bearing housing and journals), sure i will just take it to an alternator shop. But if the bearing housings and shaft journals are fine, the slip rings are not gouged due to worn brushes and rectifier is good (just a set of diodes that can be tested with a meter), I can just replace the bearings, regulator and brushes. Of course the slip rings can be polished with a 800 sand paper. If the slip rings are worn, it is also available online and just a matter of unsoldering and sliding the old one out and sliding the new one in and soldered.
My alternator right now is fine but with 150k miles with no bearing noises, voltage output at 14.5VDC on the gauge, I am pretty sure the carbon brushes are getting worn close to the pigtails. Once the carbon brushes pigtails hit the slip rings, that's the end of it. And that is what i am trying to avoid on this refresh while the alternator is still working fine.
04-20-2012, 03:02 PM #13
I'd consider buying one at a junkyard and practicing on it. If I succeed, I have a great back-up one. If I fail, I still have a truck that drives...I like you.
04-20-2012, 04:19 PM #14
04-20-2012, 05:34 PM #15
04-22-2012, 07:15 AM #16
The parts came in yesterday, 2 days earlier than expected.
Anyway, I won't be able to work on it until Monday. I'll post the update and take lots of pictures.
04-24-2012, 07:36 PM #17
Came home early today and the weather is extremely nice, why not work on the alternator?
1. 5/16 nut driver, top engine cover and hose clamps
2. 17 mm socket, alternaotr mount bolts
3. Ratchet handle 1/4" and 1/2" drive
4. 17 mm combination wrench, belt tensioner
5. 21 mm wrench as cheater for belt tensioner
6. E6 torx socket, alternator brush and regulator bolts
7. 10 mm socket, alternator + cable
1. Remove engine top cover
2. loosen clamps and remove air intake snorkel
3. Unplug alternator 4 wire control plug
4. Remove + cable from alternator. Be careful not to touch ground while removing hex nut and tape the ends to prevent from making contact with ground
5. With a 17 mm wrench and an extension, loosen serpentine belt tensioner, and release the belt from idler pulley on top
6. Remove alternator 2 mounting bolts with 17mm socket and ratchet
7. Pry off the alternator with a pry bar onboth sides
8. Take it to a bench
9. Pry off the rear plastic end cover, it just unsnaps in 4 locations. I used a small flat screw driver
10. With an E6 torx socket, remove the regulator and brush holder screws.
11. Remove the brush holder. I did not remove the regulator because I have the wrong regulator.
12. The brush holder is a little tight to remove, so be patient.
13. Inspect the slip rings. My slip rings have score marks, so i sanded it down a little, not too much.
14. Blow all the carbon dust off the end bell
15. Install the new brush and holder.
16. Inspect the shaft rotation for smoothness. My bearings were still smooth and quiet, so i did not replace them.
17. Assembled the alternator.
14. installed the alternator back.
15. Be careful installing the + cable back on the terminal, not to touch the ratchet to ground.
16. Put serpentine back on, and intake snorkel.
17. Started the engine and check charging voltage on the gauge. Confirm charging voltage with a digital meter at the battey terminal
18. Alternator now has new carbon brushes and hoping to get another 50-100k miles.
I decided not to replace the regulator because i have the wrong part. The bearings were smooth and quiet, so i just left them alone. The main problem were the carbon brushes. They were worn down and may loose contact with the slip rings soon and will fail to charge by then. I had to sand down the slip rings as they showed some score lines from the worn brushes.
Hope this helps somebody who wants to tackle the same project.
I would rate the job a 3 on as scale of 1 as easy and 10 as hard.
05-21-2012, 10:39 PM #18Objects in mirror are losing
2003 Chevy Silverado Z71, 5.3L, K&N 57 series, 2.5'' Flowmaster Super 10 series dual exhaust , Corvette Servo, McNew Automotive Dyno tune, SS gauge cluster, Extang Trifecta Tonneau, Pacesetter shorty headers, Goodmark cowl hood, Sony Xplod speakers, Kenwood DDX-470 exhaust tips, 16" Ultra Badlands polished wheels, Pirelli Scorpion ATR .
05-21-2012, 11:13 PM #19
- Join Date
- Apr 2010
- Piermont,NY, back in Northern NJ now, But may be in IL soon....
Very nice write up...08 Z71 Avalanche Mods to date: K&N CAI,Hellwig Swaybars and End Links, Corsa Sport Exhaust, Superchips Programer,IPCW LOF & 3rd brake light and tails, AMI Gas door,Show Hooks and Door locks, Enkei Wheels, with Pirelli tires, StreetScene Bowties, Grant Steering wheel,Muth signal mirrors,SSBC Big Brake kit,Huskyliner Mug gards,Floor mats and Hood shield, McGard Lug nuts and locks, Bedrug, Cervini's Ram Air hood,35watt HID Fog lights, Sylvania bulbs all around ZXE's Highs and Lows, WhiteNight Back up lights,Sirius and HD Radio, SnugTop sitting on deck now Got a Softopper on now,Tempress Boat Hatches.... New Bilstein shocks are on... New Mods coming soon..... X
05-22-2012, 01:11 AM #20
A big THANK YOU for your taking the time and making the extra effort to post not only all those steps and tools used, but to post the pictures. You have a busy life I am sure and on top of it you are doing this project, so taking time to post this is greatly appreciated by this truck and car owner. This not only gives folks the information to try to do this on their truck, but it also gives some folks the confidence that they can do it.
By nlocho11 in forum GM Electrical TechReplies: 4Last Post: 05-19-2011, 09:19 AM
By Padre in forum GM Electrical TechReplies: 6Last Post: 11-30-2009, 11:31 PM
By loic in forum General Chevy & GM Tech QuestionsReplies: 10Last Post: 10-05-2009, 10:41 AM
By Crawdaddy in forum Audio, Video & Gadget TechReplies: 3Last Post: 07-07-2009, 11:43 AM
By spooky in forum Chevy Silverado Forum (GMC Sierra)Replies: 4Last Post: 12-30-2007, 04:37 PM