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04-18-2012, 12:43 AM #1
- Join Date
- Apr 2012
07 Silverado 1500 NBS Final Drive Ratio
I bought the truck used w/34000 miles on it about a year ago and I'm unsure of what my final drive ratio is. I found something about the standard ratio on all Silverado 1500's in 07 being 3.42:1, but I'm unsure if my truck was special ordered w/3.73's or not. Mileage and acceleration lead me to believe I got stuck w/the 3.42's...but is there any way to find specs on what my truck came with? Unfortunately I don't have the window sticker or anything. If not, do any of you know what RPM I would be running at a certain speed and gear w/either set of gears and factory 31" OD tires? It is an ECSB 4WD/AWD LTZ. It does not have the Z71 package, but I know from some testing last winter that I do have a locking rear diff on it.
If I do end up having 3.42's is it worth it to change out to 3.73's? What type of mileage hit would I take? I pull a 6x12 v-nose enclosed and will soon be getting a toy hauler bumper pull camper. I have a car to make my daily work commute during non-winter months, so a slight loss in mileage won't hurt me too bad.
Thanks for any help in advance.
04-18-2012, 01:58 AM #2
Look in your glovebox and match the RPO codes to one of these and that will be your rear gears.
GT4 -- AXLE REAR, 3.73 RATIO
GT5 -- AXLE REAR, 4.10 RATIO
GU4 -- AXLE REAR, 3.08 RATIO
GU5 -- AXLE REAR, 3.23 RATIO
GU6 -- AXLE REAR, 3.42 RATIO
G80 -- AXLE REAR, LIMITED SLIP
---------- Post added at 01:58 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:52 AM ----------
If you are going to regear, go 4.10's. It will pull your load alot better and you won't take that big of a hit on hwy MPG. My truck is a 4.10 07 Classic and when it was stock I was getting 16.7 in town and 20 on the hwy.
04-18-2012, 02:08 AM #3
It's all about the RPO. I wish they'd come stock with the 3.73, but I guess it doesn't really matter since I'll be regearing when I get the lift anyway. It's still enough to do anything needed right now.
To Be Completed (Eventually):
6" BDS Suspension lift | KingShocks Front and Rear Coil Overs | 4.56 Gears | 35" A/Ts (TBD) | Cervinis 07-12 Silverado Ram Air Hood | Fab Fours Front Winch Bumper (CS07-H2051-1) | Fab Fours Full Size Rear Bumper (CS07-W1850-1) | RX-2 Series Main Grille (Black) | Line-x Bed and wheel wells | Skid Plates | Rizor Automated Tonneau Cover | Custom Bed Insert | RBP RX-3 Series Nerf Bars | Kenwood Excelon DNX9990HD | JL Audio Stealthbox (2x500RMS) | JL Audio HD 1200/1 Class D Mono Amp | JL Audio C5-653 Components (Front) | JL Audio C5-650 Components (Rear) | JL Audio Slash v2 300/4v2 Class A/B Amp
04-18-2012, 12:36 PM #4
- Join Date
- Apr 2012
So, my question is: is it worth it to me to consider going to 4.10's? I still use the truck as a daily driver sometimes when I get tired of the gas saver. From what I figure, that would be about a 9% increase in RPM's at highway cruising speed (70-80 mph most of the time for me). I can see the effects going either way. With more mechanical advantage in the city the engine works less hard to get to speed from a stop. At highway speeds although the RPM's are slightly increased it could allow the truck to be in 4 cylinder mode more often as it requires less power to maintain speed. I pull my enclosed probably 30 times a year, but never any longer than a couple hour drive. When I get a toy hauler (half ton towable of course), I may take some longer trips to race GNCC's, so I have a feeling 4.10's would be very beneficial pulling that heavier load.
Does anyone have experience w/4.10's and 3.73's and the differences that the gearing change made? Thanks again guys.
04-18-2012, 12:42 PM #5
It's not worth the cash for such a little gain to go 4.10s. on stock size tires, plus if you do lift it and go bigger tires, worry about a 4.56 then. As long as you are rolling stock, keep what ya got and enjoy your truck.
04-18-2012, 12:50 PM #6
- Join Date
- Apr 2012
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