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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim33 View Post
    I bought a 2012 2500HD diesel recently to replace my '97 K1500. It's a nice truck, except for the unnecessarily large size. It's too bad GM doesn't offer a truck like my '97, and another with a "mild lift". It has the new smog equipment (started in 2011, as far as I can tell) but the engine seems to run fine.

    If your wife is short or not too agile, the more expensive 6" oval running board works fine. My wife's foot slipped in the running board option that resembles a pipe but she is happy with the other one. It was worth the extra money to keep her happy.

    I'm so used to driving something this big or bigger, that it doesn't bother me too much. Have you had to add DEF yet?

    We ordered some ABS covered aluminum boards, not the tubes. I don't mine either style, but the actual running boards seem to protect the underneath of the truck better. This truck sits quite a bit higher than my 2500 Dodge (also 4wd), but I want to remember that was one of Dodge's selling points; low cab height?

  2. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by steved View Post
    I'm so used to driving something this big or bigger, that it doesn't bother me too much. Have you had to add DEF yet?

    We ordered some ABS covered aluminum boards, not the tubes. I don't mine either style, but the actual running boards seem to protect the underneath of the truck better. This truck sits quite a bit higher than my 2500 Dodge (also 4wd), but I want to remember that was one of Dodge's selling points; low cab height?
    I've never heard of Dodge trying to use low cab height as a selling point, but thats also because every dodge I've actually got into and out of often has been higher than a GM. My Uncle's old 2004 Ram 1500 was considerably higher than any half ton GM from the factory, and my stepdad's 2009 Ram 3500 is stupid high off the ground, and with no running boards. But this is all based on my limited Dodge experience.

    Anyway, Most HD trucks have become quite a bit taller in the last few years as the suspensions get stronger, etc. A new GM, Ford, or Dodge would likely be quite a bit taller than your old dodge just because of that.

    2008 FORD F350. My new all-around truck.
    2001 Silverado Reg. Cab Not-So-Base -- SOLD
    2003 Avalanche Z71. No Cladding. Check out my Mod thread. - Crashed. Will be rebuilt soon.
    1974 Triumph Spitfire 1500 - Work in Progress
    2003 Sierra 3500 Duramax. The Newer, Better Work Truck -- FOR SALE


  3. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by steved View Post
    I'm so used to driving something this big or bigger, that it doesn't bother me too much. Have you had to add DEF yet?

    We ordered some ABS covered aluminum boards, not the tubes. I don't mine either style, but the actual running boards seem to protect the underneath of the truck better. This truck sits quite a bit higher than my 2500 Dodge (also 4wd), but I want to remember that was one of Dodge's selling points; low cab height?
    The truck hasn't been serviced yet; I just have a little over a thousand miles on it.

    I just bought up the 2500HD "build your own" link, http://www.chevrolet.com/tools/byo/b...00hd&pvc=81228 and the current factory rebate is now $2500. That's great! It was $2000 when I ordered it in January and I was rushing just in case it was discontinued. The discount applies at purchase time, not order time. I'm not a good bargainer, and I used the Consumers Reports car buying service. Check the ad on the back cover of any issue for details. It cost $14, and I specified what I wanted. I received a detailed list of the truck with all options priced, a discounted total price, plus four nearby dealers who would sell the truck at that price. I ran the service a number of times with different options, which worked fine as long as I didn't change the basic truck (extended cab, 4WD, etc.). They also had a CU review summary of that truck. It indicated the fuel delivery system was much worse than average for repairs. I checked a number of truck forums and the Duramax forum and posters were not complaining, so went ahead and purchased it.

    Jim

  4. #24
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    From what I've read, the DuraMax has fared the best in the latest transition...Ford can't get an engine together long enough for real world testing, and the Cummins 6.7L seem to have a bad habit of puking turbos and having emissions equipment problems. If I was to have picked a diesel again, it probably would have likely been a DuraMax because Dodge still has steering quirks to get worked out.

    The only bit of advice I can give you is be aware of where you buy your fuel...that is the main killer of the current diesel fuel system. If you get a batch of water or bad fuel, it can wipe a set of injectors out in short order...I know this from experience. The new ULSD has a real bad tendency to absorb water (hygroscopic) which makes it even worse if the fuel suppliers don't take care of their delivery. It also has a tendency (summer weight fuel) to wax at temperatures above 15*F...so make sure your fuel stop has changed over to winter fuel before it gets cold. I had only had two fuel waxing issues in over ten years, an both were this spring...station hadn't switched to winter fuel because of the mild winter and then we had a cold snap.

    I was lucky, got the $2500, plus almost $2k from the dealer...trade in was probably low, but I didn't have to deal with it. The extended cab was actually hard to find, almost every 2500HD I saw was either a standard cab or a crew cab...but that wasn't an issue since we were set on the crew cab anyway.

  5. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by steved View Post
    From what I've read, the DuraMax has fared the best in the latest transition...Ford can't get an engine together long enough for real world testing, and the Cummins 6.7L seem to have a bad habit of puking turbos and having emissions equipment problems. If I was to have picked a diesel again, it probably would have likely been a DuraMax because Dodge still has steering quirks to get worked out.

    The only bit of advice I can give you is be aware of where you buy your fuel...that is the main killer of the current diesel fuel system. If you get a batch of water or bad fuel, it can wipe a set of injectors out in short order...I know this from experience. The new ULSD has a real bad tendency to absorb water (hygroscopic) which makes it even worse if the fuel suppliers don't take care of their delivery. It also has a tendency (summer weight fuel) to wax at temperatures above 15*F...so make sure your fuel stop has changed over to winter fuel before it gets cold. I had only had two fuel waxing issues in over ten years, an both were this spring...station hadn't switched to winter fuel because of the mild winter and then we had a cold snap.

    I was lucky, got the $2500, plus almost $2k from the dealer...trade in was probably low, but I didn't have to deal with it. The extended cab was actually hard to find, almost every 2500HD I saw was either a standard cab or a crew cab...but that wasn't an issue since we were set on the crew cab anyway.
    This is my first post, and I missed the pages where you said you had already purchased your truck so offered advice after the truck was purchased. I purchased an extended cab to reduce overall length, making it easier to park in dry camping sites. Many seem to be designed by someone who has never driven a RV (or maybe deliberately to keep rv's out). I have an old 18' travel trailer, about the smallest you can go and not have a wet bath or small refrigerator.

    I really like the trailer brake controller; It actually seems to proportion breaking effort evenly. I've have used Tekonsha controllers since '91, and normally didn't use the controller part and just operated the brakes manually.

    I appreciate the advice on being careful where fuel is purchased, but how do you decide if you are in a remote area out of town and need fuel? Could you look for a Chevron or Shell station and assume everything is ok? I live in the Los Angeles area and don't use the trailer in freezing weather (but nights in the mountains can get cold).
    Jim

  6. #26
    Former Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim33 View Post
    This is my first post, and I missed the pages where you said you had already purchased your truck so offered advice after the truck was purchased. I purchased an extended cab to reduce overall length, making it easier to park in dry camping sites. Many seem to be designed by someone who has never driven a RV (or maybe deliberately to keep rv's out). I have an old 18' travel trailer, about the smallest you can go and not have a wet bath or small refrigerator.

    I really like the trailer brake controller; It actually seems to proportion breaking effort evenly. I've have used Tekonsha controllers since '91, and normally didn't use the controller part and just operated the brakes manually.

    I appreciate the advice on being careful where fuel is purchased, but how do you decide if you are in a remote area out of town and need fuel? Could you look for a Chevron or Shell station and assume everything is ok? I live in the Los Angeles area and don't use the trailer in freezing weather (but nights in the mountains can get cold).
    Jim

    I know what you're saying about RV sites...so many times I've gotten "lucky" to get a spot at a camp ground to find out when I get there that no one wanted it because it was practically impossibly to park in. I've went as far as running the wrong way in a loop to get situated in spots before...you do what you need to do. I've got what is technically classified a 24 foot 5vr, but overall its closer to 18 feet because some of that length is over the bed of the truck.

    I'm glad you posted about the brake controller...I've read where some don't like it (one was comparing to a BrakeSmart, which isn't really a comparison), and I too have been using Tekonsha controllers since the early 2000's. I was hoping it would be "smarter" than the cheaper brake controllers out there.

    As for fuel, the only thing I can tell you is fuel where it looks like they go through some volume. My last truck was in every state in the lower 48, and I typically fueled at truck stops. But that's not even a guarantee as I picked up a load of water from a Flying J (as in GALLONS of water), which caused the injectors to eventually fail. Although I should have put two and two together at the time, when every other pump was covered and there was nobody getting fuel at the truck islands...but it didn't register at the time. Just prior to the OE injectors failing at 140k, I installed an auxiliary tank and used it to prefilter all my fuel through a water-blocking filter...I put another 130k on without a hickup, but I found water and dirt in that fuel filter (one of the last tanks netted me almost a cup of rust/sediment). In these common rail diesels, water is by far the worst thing you can get into in my opinion (dirt can be filtered effectively, water not so much).

  7. #27

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    I just purchased a 2012 2500HD WT crew cab with the long bed and the 6.0 and a 3.73. The WT stands for work truck. They are much more affordable. The 2500 with the 4.10 will pu ll 13900. Mine pulls 9700. The only options on mine were the locking differential and radio. IT is a great truck. I have not towed yet , but will next weekend. It rides great iI am confidedent towing will be also because they now have the stability and sway control built in. It also has the 6 speed transmission. They retail for about $32000, but you can buy them for $28000 or less. Check NADA and they will tell you dealer invoice, and you can then bargin from there. Our kids are grown but hte back seat is roomy. We have the front bench seat with armrest. I'm from Louisville, Ky. and this is where they build all the Ford super duty's, so it is a ford town, but I believe chevy has the best truck. Motor trend just compared ford, dodge and chevy and picked chevy as the best. If I can answer any questions let me know. Bob I also didn't see your post about already buying. Congrats they are great trucks!
    Last edited by qepv25a; 05-12-2012 at 04:06 AM.
    Bob....Kentucky 2012HD Silverado, 6.0 Vortec, 6Speed, 3.73, WT model:glasses:

  8. #28
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    Well, have about 1200 miles on the clock...hooked to my first trailer today (this was the real test, and my biggest concern). Trailer is a 20 foot landscaper's trailer (probably 1500#s) and I had two John Deere Gators loaded (fully equipped 6x4s, probably 1500# each)...so about 4500#s total. This trailer tows heavy for whatever reason...probably a bent axle (not my trailer, company's abused junk)?

    It didn't do too bad really. The narrow and hilly little roads around my place made it suffer, because it either had to run a lower gear at higher RPM or would lug a higher gear...not enough road to get the momentum going. The combination on the highway work fine...once up to highway speeds, it would typically drop from 6th to 5th and pull the grade. I didn't run it hard, never got over 3500RPM...so I wasn't even in its max power range yet.

    Mileage sucked, but I knew that going into this...used 1/4 tank to run about 50 miles. Doubling that weight would probably make it work pretty hard, and I would definitely need to run it harder than what I did. Overall, it ran fine.

  9. #29

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    We hooked our 31 foot primetime travel trailer up today. We are leaving tommorrow for a weekend camping trip to Dog Creek campground at nolin lake ky. Can't wait!

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