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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by Aftershock77 View Post
    As I said before I was doing other projects as well. So I disconnected for another job. Volt meter was at 14, figured its a relay gone bad.
    Ahh, I missed that. My bad
    Please Tell Your Boobs To Quit Staring At My Eyes

  2. #12

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    Well, I just got done pulling every fuse and And relay (using a test light to test). Nothing shut it off. Its still getting draw from something. The only thing I can think is a relay stuck on that I cant get to. I heard theres a lighting relay that has caused a lot of problems for 98's. Anyone else hear about this?

  3. #13
    Sr. Engineer Dana W's Avatar
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    Dec 2011
    Location
    Chuluota, Florida
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    361

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pikey View Post
    does it have lighted mirrors on the sun visors? I have heard of those staying on and draining the battery
    Yeah, mine did that. Broken hinge on the mirror covers, both of them. The cover could not hold the plunger switch down. It took two of us a couple of days to find the problem. You can't see the mirror lights with the cover closed unless you are staring right down the slit between the cover and mirror frame. What's worse, the bulbs DO NOT come out of their sockets. I had to remove the bulb & switch harness from both visors.

  4. #14
    Sr. Apprentice
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario Canada
    Posts
    72

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    My truck did this very thing, and it was the starter.

    It was very intermittent over the course of a year until it happened constantly. I did a thorough check/cleaning of the entire electrical system attempting to isolate the problem. I had a known good alternator, a strong battery, good grounds, alternator wiring -- and I had this dead battery syndrom. My truck would start every time with a boost and with a fresh battery, but after being driven and then left for a while before restarting it would be "dead" and need a boost. My lights, radio, horn all worked -- but then would go dead when keyed to start with no "click" from the starter.

    The starter didn't have any play to it, and spun freely with 12V directly to it -- it would just kill batteries/need a boost after I got the truck started and drove around for a bit and then let it sit for a while.... While I was re-installing the starter... it was a deja vu moment.. I had this happen at the track with the T/A.... heat soaked starter.... Replaced the starter and I haven't had the problem occur ever since!

    Those poor old starters get a lot of abuse for only being engaged briefly... it runs for maybe 1-3 seconds, but has to endure tens of thousands of miles stuffed under an exhaust manifold baking.. at rest.... heh....


    I'm saying this based on the info you've given: 14V at the battery..which you wouldn't see if the alt. was bad.. and not indicating that you have a Batt/Charge light on the dash being lit up.. you just now need a boost to get started for some reason after running around.... Do your lights/radio work before boosting?

    That's how mine started to go... lights and radio worked, but no solenoid click with the key turned...



    Hope this helps.
    Last edited by Strino78; 05-28-2012 at 02:09 AM.
    My lug nuts require more torque than your Honda makes.

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