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  1. #1

    Default Trailer/Tow function won't engage

    04 Yukon, 185k. Pulled the boat out of winter storeage last weekend. Hit the trailer/tow button and nothing happened, no light, trans didn't shift, nothing. I pressed the button a few different times, nothing. Not sure if this is related, but I had the carrier bearings replaced in the front diff earlier this spring. Any relationship? I searched around here and didn't see much. Maybe a bad wire in the column? Anybody have any ideas?

  2. #2

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tommy Panfish View Post
    04 Yukon, 185k. Pulled the boat out of winter storeage last weekend. Hit the trailer/tow button and nothing happened, no light, trans didn't shift, nothing. I pressed the button a few different times, nothing. Not sure if this is related, but I had the carrier bearings replaced in the front diff earlier this spring. Any relationship? I searched around here and didn't see much. Maybe a bad wire in the column? Anybody have any ideas?
    Tommy, as you mentioned, what's most likely happened is, the Wire that runs from the Tow Haul Button, down the Shifter and then down the Steering Column and then down to the base of the Steering Column and overtime the Wire will get Pinched and/or Frayed, and then finally Break.......Here's a Picture of where the Wire is located, at the base of the Steering Column,




    There are two Very Small Gauge White wires inside the Orange sheathing..........to fix it, just stripped the wires back, twisted together and then soldered them back together and you should be good to go.



    Last edited by 99'HEARTBEAT; 05-03-2012 at 10:14 PM. Reason: Added Infor.

    MIKE


    99"SILVERADO
    5.3 l 3.73 l G80
    BLACK BEAR CUSTOM TUNE
    SNUGTOP l COLORMATCH l KATZKIN










  3. #3
    Master Mechanic Jimmeh's Avatar
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    Default

    If that does not work, a new shifter costs around $106. I've been thinking of trying to apply something to the wire itself to help make it a little more durable.
    2005 Chevy Silverado W/T
    4X4|4.8 with some mods (has only slightly more pull than a 5.3)|Auto|4 door ex cab|Cooper Discoverer AT/3's in 285-75/17's on Helo 842's|Cooper Discover M+S 265-75/17's on Devino DV349's|Flowmaster 40 Single in Dual out with custom bent pipe from the end of the cats back|2" Procomp leveling kit|Custom made center console|Custom dyno tunes|Air Raid CAI|Air Raid Throttle Body Spacer|Apex brand topper|Kenwood Head Unit with Kenwood speakers|Painted mirrors/grille|Debadged except front emblem|Bilsteins front and rear
    Planned mods not in order
    2 inch lift|Custom front/rear bumper|hitch tire carrier|roof basket on topper, bars on cab|finish center console build|install Midland CB|Power options|Tint|Custom made raised bed in the bed of the truck|Lund LunarVisor
    Also have a 1992 Ford Ranger with a lot of stuff done to it. Currently waiting for a bit of a rebuild.


    "The only woman I'm pimping from now on is Sweet Lady Propane. And I'm tricking her out all over this town."

  4. #4

    Default

    I agree with what both Mike and Jimmeh have said. When you solder the wires back together, I will warn you that it may not stay together the first time. Because the wires are so fine and they kept breaking, I had to solder them back together 4 times over the course of a couple years when those wires broke on my Silverado

    2008 FORD F350. My new all-around truck.
    2001 Silverado Reg. Cab Not-So-Base -- SOLD
    2003 Avalanche Z71. No Cladding. Check out my Mod thread. - Crashed. Will be rebuilt soon.
    1974 Triumph Spitfire 1500 - Work in Progress
    2003 Sierra 3500 Duramax. The Newer, Better Work Truck -- FOR SALE


  5. #5

    Default

    Thanks fellas. I'll take a look this weekend and report back. Perfect pics....I really appreciate it.

  6. #6
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    Default

    Probably should splice them back together with a crimp splice Vs soldering. Solder takes away flexibility and makes the wires easy to break again.

    Bill

  7. #7

    Default

    Well...I finally took the lower dash apart.......pulled the sheathing back and the wires look good. Connections look good. Pulled the connection apart. Checked for power and I have 13 volts coming out of the pig tail that the wires plug into......so now I'm guessing either the connection is bad or something is disconnected or bad up in the shift arm itself. Before I go and buy a new shifter, does anybody have any ideas?

  8. #8

    Default

    on my side, effectively i found a cut wire, so i weld it together and the TOW HAUL button is working again thaks guys

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