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  1. #11

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    This is a good addition to the How-To section. Props to you, Pikey.

  2. #12

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    I did the job but I now have a woonle worse when I drive faster

  3. #13

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    Sorry for the typing errors,(I must learn one day) I meant wobble and Pikey was right I forgot a washer on the rotor and it's all good. Pikey's pic's and step by step made all the diff and the job possible. Thanks

  4. #14

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    Nicely done. is there a link to your previous thread (looking could not find). I need to replace front and read pads + rotors

    are the rears much different? (E-brake issues ...)

    thanks
    1995 Saturn Sw1 196K and counting
    2001 Suburban LS 150K and counting
    2004 MR2 Spyder 62K and counting
    2007 mini cooper S 60K and counting

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by T-bone View Post
    Nicely done. is there a link to your previous thread (looking could not find). I need to replace front and read pads + rotors

    are the rears much different? (E-brake issues ...)

    thanks
    What previous thread are you looking for? The one before this was just someone asking for a how to for front brakes. The rears are not much different. The major difference for the disc brakes are that there is a bolt holding the calipers in place. Then the "slide pin" goes into the caliper mounting bracket. You can pull those out of the caliper bracket and clean them. The parking break shoes are not hard to do at all. After you remove the rear caliper mount bracket, you would pull the drum/rotor off. If it has not been done before there should be a locking washer on one of the wheel studs holding the drum/rotor in place. You can grab a tab on the washer with a pair of side cutters and pull it off. The only thing that hold the parking break shoes in place is a bolt (10mm I think) You pull that bolt and the little clip off and the shoe set comes right off. Clean up the area that the shoes ride on. You may have to screw the adjuster in when you put the new shoes on to give room for the rotor to slide back on.

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pikey View Post
    What previous thread are you looking for? The one before this was just someone asking for a how to for front brakes. The rears are not much different. The major difference for the disc brakes are that there is a bolt holding the calipers in place. Then the "slide pin" goes into the caliper mounting bracket. You can pull those out of the caliper bracket and clean them. The parking break shoes are not hard to do at all. After you remove the rear caliper mount bracket, you would pull the drum/rotor off. If it has not been done before there should be a locking washer on one of the wheel studs holding the drum/rotor in place. You can grab a tab on the washer with a pair of side cutters and pull it off. The only thing that hold the parking break shoes in place is a bolt (10mm I think) You pull that bolt and the little clip off and the shoe set comes right off. Clean up the area that the shoes ride on. You may have to screw the adjuster in when you put the new shoes on to give room for the rotor to slide back on.
    Sorry when I read this

    Ok, I am doing my brakes right now and found some issues and inconsistencies with my how to, So here is the revised version
    I assumed you had a previous thread/write up

    Thanks for the clarification I have 4 wheel disks on the truck but figured like most cars they would have a different configuration. Looks simple compared to my Mini just way way bigger Thank you for the tips here greatly appreciated. Will start with the fronts (I can feel the warp when brakes are applied) so I am hoping that solves my issues. if not its off the rear of the car

    Cheers

    PS I have a 2001 suburban LS (1500) assuming the brake will be similar identical


    Found this on you tube looks a little too easy

    Last edited by T-bone; 06-07-2012 at 10:09 AM.

  7. #17

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    Nope, it is that easy. I did not see anything about cleaning and lubing the pins

  8. #18

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    Hi Again.
    one more questions if you do not mind

    1) did you use loctite (red) on reinstalling the caliper mounting bolts?

    (read this on the auto zone site and found this for other references)
    Last edited by T-bone; 06-18-2012 at 04:30 PM.

  9. #19

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    The torques heads are a T55 size. I would never put red loctite on anything that I wanted to get apart again. If you insist on using it only use the blue. Red requires heat to get apart.
    Last edited by Pikey; 06-19-2012 at 07:26 AM.

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pikey View Post
    The torques heads are a T55 size. I would never put red loctite on anything that I wanted to get apart again. I have never put loctite on the caliper mounting bolts. If you insist on using it only use the blue. Red requires heat to get apart.
    Thank you that is what I figured. Not a fan of loctite red or blue os if its safe I cool without using it. (what's the worst that can happen ;) )

    thanks and I apologize for missing the T55 size between the peeksures

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