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Thread: How To Replace Front Disc Brakes
05-04-2012, 09:13 PM #1
How To Replace Front Disc Brakes
Ok, I am doing my brakes right now and found some issues and inconsistencies with my how to, So here is the revised version
Here is my quick write up on pad replacement.
Break all lug nuts loose.
-Jack up vehicle and support with jack stands.
-I suggest doing one side at a time incase you need to use the other side as reference.
-Compress the caliper piston with a C-clamp. This is the first time I have tried this method and it seems to work
-Remove two caliper bolts. I think that they are Torques T-55 head.
For rears You may need a wrench to hold the guide pins from spinning. Put the wrench just on the otherside of the caliper, There are flat spots there, you may have to move the rubber boot alittle to find them
-Hang the caliper out of the way with a piece of wire.
-The pads are removed by sliding them away from the caliper. the outside pad slides down the metal brackets toward you. The inside slides toward the motor.
-pay attention to what pad came from the outside and which one came from the inside, you will use these for reference when installing the new pads
I guess that I have to do this in more then one post, it will not let me add anymore pictures
1995 Silverado 4x4 (Sold)
6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge
2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, HIR1 9011 Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)
05-04-2012, 09:19 PM #2
-If replacing rotors remove the two large bolts that hold the caliper mount to the steering knuckle. (Probably going to need a breaker bar because these are torqued at around 129 ft.lb. (yes, I know my ball joints look like crap and have holes in the boots. That is my next project)
Before putting your new rotors on, clean with break clean to remove any coating applied during shipping. I always take a rough piece of sand paper and rough the rotor surfaces, front and back, when I worked in the garage we had seen cars come back that had some strange noises during braking, roughing the surfaces of the rotors remedied this.
-Look at the caliper mounting bracket, you will see the metal slides the came in your kit, pay attention to their orientation. remove the old metal slides and install the new ones exactly how the old ones came off. Being careful to make sure they are fully seated and clipped securely in place. Look at the middle of the clip being sure that the section in fully seated.
-Next, look at the bracket and locate where the caliper guide pin bolts slid in. Clean the holes well with brake clean, looking for any damage to the rubber
-After cleaning the holes and the pins. Lube them well with sil glyde.
-put a little sil glyde on the metal clips where the pads will ride. Not a lot, it attracts dust. Just a thin layer
-remount the caliper bracket.
-I always put a few washers on a wheel stud and screw a lug nut on, this is to hold the rotor in the proper position while installing the pads.
-Some people install brake quite on the backside of the pads to stop any noise. most good pads come with shims already mounted, this makes the brake quite unnecessary. Some manufactures will void the warranty if you use it.
-install the new pads. Sliding them into the clips just like the old ones came off. Pay attention that the wear indicator tabs are in the same location as the pads you removed. they should go in smoothly and move along the clips freely. I have actually had to file a little off the inside radius (where the pads ride on the metal slide clips) of the ears of the pad to make them move correctly. I use a rat tail file for this. It does not take much, usually just the paint. make sure that the pads seat flat against the rotor and are not cocked in any way.
-reinstall caliper and guide pin bolts (I put anti-seize on the threads of the bolts so they come apart next time easily.
-Pump brake pedal to get the caliper tight on the pads, DO NOT DO THIS IF BOTH CALIPERS ARE NOT MOUNTED IN THEIR FINAL POSITION WITH PADS IN PLACE
-remove the lug nut and washers holding the rotor in place.
I know that people have different ways of doing the job. This method has worked well for me for years. If I missed something I am sure that someone will add it. I torque everything that I have a spec for. It may be overkill but, I would rather not over tighten and break or strip a bolt, or under tighten and have something come loose. You can just pull one caliper mounting bolt and swing the caliper upward, replace the pads and put it back together. This does not address cleaning and greasing the guide pins. Rear pad replacement is nearly the same. Except that there are bolts holding the caliper in place and the guide pins are mounted into the caliper mounting bracket. Next time I do the rear pads and parking brake shoes I will post a how to. I will also try to post torq specs required later.
---------- Post added at 05:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:41 PM ----------
Caliper mounting(guide pin) bolts: 80 ft-lbs
Caliper mounting bracket bolts:(1500 models)=129ft.lb
(for 2500 model):221ft.lbs
Lug nuts: 140 ft-lbs
Last edited by Pikey; 05-05-2012 at 12:05 AM.
05-05-2012, 08:47 AM #3
- Join Date
- Mar 2012
- Regina Saskatchewan Canada
- Blog Entries
Great Job Pikey....... Considering This Post was created 03-22-2009....and bumped in contradiction of the Thread Rules.. Read this before posting in this sub-forum!!!Please read the following before posting in the Write-Ups forum. This sub-forum is for the posting of write-ups that have been completed and have step-by-step instructions on how to complete the diesired task. THIS SUB-FORUM IS NOT FOR ASKING FOR WRITE-UPS OR FOR ASKING QUESTIONS IN GENERAL. If you do not have a completed write-up that you would like to share with everyone else, please post in one of the other sub-forums such as Electrical, Aftermarket, or Powertrain forums. ANYTHING POSTED IN THIS SUB-FORUM THAT IS NOT A COMPLETED WRITE-UP WILL BE MOVED TO THE APPROPRIATE FORUM WITHOUT WARNING. Thank you and let's keep this sub-forum clean!
Read more: http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...#ixzz1u07JDGRl
You have added some much needed life and action into this section of the site......
Good write up though,,,, and looking forward to part two..... Rear Brakes and park pads.....
05-05-2012, 10:42 PM #4
Thanks Pikey, great pic's (really) Now I get it and that helps. I would have taken this to the shop but my son has cancer and my wife spends her time a the hospital and can't work, I have been on disabilty for a long time. That's why I have to do it myself. I really am greatfull for the advice. I bought new bolts for the caliper brackets and just in case I will get new bolts for the calipers. One question, what is sil glyde?
Thanks again, Eric
05-06-2012, 07:00 AM #5
05-06-2012, 07:09 PM #6
Last edited by Pikey; 05-06-2012 at 08:44 PM.
05-08-2012, 12:25 AM #7
If anyone to blame it is me. I have very litte time to figure out the site, As I have said brfore it was my fault not Pikey's for being kind and awsering my quiestions I am very busy with my son (31/2 that has leukemia, as we spenp most of our time trying to save He's life. so if you want to gat mad at someone Dirty dog it's me..............
05-08-2012, 08:55 AM #8
- Join Date
- Feb 2007
- Blog Entries
It's all good Pikey, you did good. I did split your how-to posts off to a new thread so it would be easier to find, but it's all good. Thanks for contributing!Christopher
1991 Chevy Suburban 1/2 ton 2WD w/ chevy SBC 350-3/4 ton drivetrain upgrade w/4.10 gears 199K miles
2005 Saturn ION-2 Stock 234K miles (In 6 years...ouch)
1982 Bronco, 1993 Bronco (sold), 1971 M35A2 Deuce and a Half
There are 10 kinds of people, those who understand binary, and those who dont...
Remember kids, the only difference between screwing around and science is writing it down- Adam Savage
05-08-2012, 11:08 PM #9
Pikey, I really appreciate the write up. I've yet to attempt changing my brakes myself yet and posts like yours give me at least enough to start poking around. Thank you for the work, and especially the pictures.
To Be Completed (Eventually):
6" BDS Suspension lift | KingShocks Front and Rear Coil Overs | 4.56 Gears | 35" A/Ts (TBD) | Cervinis 07-12 Silverado Ram Air Hood | Fab Fours Front Winch Bumper (CS07-H2051-1) | Fab Fours Full Size Rear Bumper (CS07-W1850-1) | RX-2 Series Main Grille (Black) | Line-x Bed and wheel wells | Skid Plates | Rizor Automated Tonneau Cover | Custom Bed Insert | RBP RX-3 Series Nerf Bars | Kenwood Excelon DNX9990HD | JL Audio Stealthbox (2x500RMS) | JL Audio HD 1200/1 Class D Mono Amp | JL Audio C5-653 Components (Front) | JL Audio C5-650 Components (Rear) | JL Audio Slash v2 300/4v2 Class A/B Amp
05-08-2012, 11:38 PM #10
I would like to add that when breaking the caliper bracket mounting bolts loose I use a 2 foot breaker bar with a 4 foot pipe slid over the end of it. They are pretty hard to break loose. Considering that I weigh about 140lbs I need the extra leverage. I suggest doing yourself a favor and cleaning the threads of those bolts up on a wire wheel, then put anti-seize on them before reinstalling. It will make it alot easier the next time you change out the rotors.
Last edited by Pikey; 05-08-2012 at 11:44 PM.
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