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  1. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by T-bone View Post
    Thank you that is what I figured. Not a fan of loctite red or blue os if its safe I cool without using it. (what's the worst that can happen ;) )

    thanks and I apologize for missing the T55 size between the peeksures
    Loctite blue is used in the factory on a number of things. I strongly recommend using it on anything that vibrates. It doesn't create a problem for removal like red does...

  2. #22

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    so I took a look at my brakes today. My car shutters when the you apply the bakes but it stops OK. Pad thickness front and back looked OK. the inner pad of the front drivers side was more worn then the outer. spinning the fronts it feels like their are "sticky spots" and not a smooth rotation as on my spyder which I just put SS brake lines on a few months ago.

    Looking back through my records, the rear pads and rotors were replaced (not by me) in 2009. Fronts pads were change but rotors have not so I went to pep boys and picked up front rotors and pads as well as a torx set for the caliper bolts.

    The rear bakes have about 15K on them and since the pads look good I am assuming the rotors are good and the shutter is from the fronts.

    a friend driving the car noticed that the pedal travel for more than he expected. hard for me to tell because if it has changed it has been gradual nevertheless, it is more than my other cars. Fluid was a tad low and so I was thinking could this be a blown seal in the master?

    my plan was to do the rotors & pads on the front next weekend and flush/bleed the fluid since it has been three years but then I started thinking if the MC is on its way out would flushing make sense? Maybe just do the rotors and pads and then focus on getting the MC done (after new tires)

    thoughts input appreciated
    1995 Saturn Sw1 196K and counting
    2001 Suburban LS 150K and counting
    2004 MR2 Spyder 62K and counting
    2007 mini cooper S 60K and counting

  3. #23

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    Just did the rotors on the Impala with the same shudder before replacing the rotors and pads. The master is probably low as when the pads wear they protrude farther out and fluid is needed to fill the piston bores and should raise when you return the pistons to their new position.
    07 2500HD Duramax , 4DR and 26 Prowler 5th wheel Travel trailer, 57 Chev wagon with 14' Bonair travel trailer, and 71 Nova. ChevyTalk.org Canadian Regional Coordinator

  4. #24

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    Ok suburban got a make over today and I am drinking a large scotch during this recount.

    -new side passenger mirror
    - oil change
    - new front rotors and pads.
    -brake flush and bleed.

    step-by-step was a great help not too much out of the ordinary other than corrosion. front bleeders were pretty bad and I am thinking next time its new calipers as a result nearly broke one ...

    Buddy and I took our time and made sure we did not break anything in the process. Only downer was some extra trips to pep boys because they left out the mounting hardware in the shopping bag.

    We had two floor jacks so we got the car up off the ground by synchronized jacking from each side of the truck: jacked the front put in stands did the back the same way



    here was the real problem
    drivers front inner pad YIKES



    all together and nice and shiny


    test drive shows success new tires tomorrow and it will be a complete refresh.

    It was hot today BTW
    Last edited by T-bone; 06-30-2012 at 09:18 PM.

  5. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by T-bone View Post
    Ok suburban got a make over today and I am drinking a large scotch during this recount.

    -new side passenger mirror
    - oil change
    - new front rotors and pads.
    -brake flush and bleed.

    step-by-step was a great help not too much out of the ordinary other than corrosion. front bleeders were pretty bad and I am thinking next time its new calipers as a result nearly broke one ...

    Buddy and I took our time and made sure we did not break anything in the process. Only downer was some extra trips to pep boys because they left out the mounting hardware in the shopping bag.

    We had two floor jacks so we got the car up off the ground by synchronized jacking from each side of the truck: jacked the front put in stands did the back the same way



    here was the real problem
    drivers front inner pad YIKES



    all together and nice and shiny


    test drive shows success new tires tomorrow and it will be a complete refresh.

    It was hot today BTW
    I am just wondering why you opened the bleeder screws when replacing the pads and rotors? There is really no need for that unless you were replacing a caliper or changing the fluid.

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  6. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pikey View Post
    I am just wondering why you opened the bleeder screws when replacing the pads and rotors? There is really no need for that unless you were replacing a caliper or changing the fluid.
    changed the fluid

    one of my troubles was really poor pedal feel. got 3qt of vavoline dot3 and started at passenger rear working my way to the MC. Fluid in the back passenger was frothy like it had air in it. Driver rear looked good.

    front passenger was near black for the first few pumps and this was the worst of the bleeder valves (I used a 9 mm because the 10 was too big) driver front was similar but the valve was in better shape.

    The fluid was supposedly flushed in 2009 but I am thinking the folks who did that did not flush the front lines or did not do the fluid at all. The bleed was due so I figured I would just do it as I had Pal power for the day.

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