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  1. #11

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    I haven't completed my system but I have my tank mounted where my spare tire used to be. It's nice and tucked up. I think my compressor is gunna go in my tool box and have a hose reel inside the box so I can pull it out and then it'll rewind it self back into my box
    2009 chevy 1500 z71 4x4
    2.5 ccm level,2.5 inch rear blocks 305/60/18 coopers stt,Debadged,10 series flow w/dual exit in front or right rear tire, KN CAI, diablo InTune, 18% tint all the way around ,spec-d euro headlights with black housings,winjet smoke LED tail lights,putco LED third brake light smoked, fab fours front bumper with 10k warn winch, RK sports ram air hood
    1965 c10 swb, zz4 350 with the hot cam and fast burn heads and a 780 Holley on top, richmond super street 5 speed,restorod

  2. #12

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    Surreal, what do you plan to use air for mainly, if you don't mind me asking? Engine driven compressors put out a lot of CFM, you may be able to get away with a small tank, or possibly no tank. I have an old York compressor sitting in storage, but it seemed like to much work for what I needed it for, plus I didn't know how much of a strain it would put on my engine. If you decide not to go the EDC route, there are other good 12V compressors....Air Zenith is one that comes to mind. Oasis is another, but you're going to spend a pretty penny for that one.

    ---------- Post added at 11:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:44 PM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmeh View Post
    If you really are worried about strength on the frame, you could get a piece of plate on the other side of the frame rail and through bolt it with the "bracket" or whatever you plan on using. Though, I have seen guys drill holes to install sliders on their trucks without weakening strength, and I doubt even a couple of half in holes are going to reduce the strength of the frame by that much. Hell, you might even be able to find some factory drilled holes on the frame where you want to locate the tanks.

    Keep us posted on the progress, Surreal. I am also interested in adding in an OBA, but have been considering just getting one of those cheap pumps that you hook up to your battery for that kind of stuff, since it'd just be for when I air up or down.
    I agree, I don't think the size of the holes required are going to weaken the frame one bit. My two smaller tanks are actually strapped to the frame using really long SS hose clamps, fed through a couple of factory slots in the frame.
    -Sal


    2008 Silverado 1500 LT 5.3L Crew Cab
    Desert Brown Metallic

    Century top, Yakima roof rack, 2.5" front lift, Readylift 3" rear blocks, Line-x bedliner, step bars, AVS vent visors, Weathertech floor liners, door sill guards, power tailgate lock, tailgate damper, KC light bar w/ PIAA 525s, rear mini-light bar, rear LED reverse/utility lights, dual batteries (Cole Hersee isolator), DIC upgrade, 20" GM wheels, Cooper Discoverer A/T3s, 26 gal. onboard air (twin Viair 480Cs), Nathan Airchime K3HA / Old cast 2nd Gen. P3 Horns, Graham White valve, bell

    Past Chevys: 1985 S-10 ext.cab, 1963 BelAir sedan

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by troutbug View Post
    Surreal, what do you plan to use air for mainly, if you don't mind me asking?
    Air horns, airing tires, and occasional tools use. Tools that might be used require 4-6 CFM @90psi (I checked), so I'd need to use a regulator and probably need a tank, as an EDC will produce the CFM but it'll be at more like 60psi.

    Tool use is my worst case scenario and while it'd be occasional I'm now designing around that so that I have capacity if/when I want it ... rather than installing an electric (sub 2 CFM) unit and then having remorse about it. I'm also learning that a DIY EDC should be a heck of a lot cheaper than any pre-made kit ... which is one more reason it's appealing ... as it provides more ... for less costs less. Also, the kits seem to skimp; I'd prefer to use braided lines, if possible, and I've seen no kit that has them.

    Quote Originally Posted by troutbug View Post
    My two smaller tanks are actually strapped to the frame using really long SS hose clamps, fed through a couple of factory slots in the frame.
    Would you, by chance, be willing to take a photo of this so that I can see how and where you've done it? Re-inventing the wheel seems pointless and if someone's got a solid mounting mechanism and placement for the tank then it would make sense for me to adopt it, myself, to benefit from that experience.
    Last edited by SurrealOne; 06-09-2012 at 12:55 AM.

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by SurrealOne View Post
    Air horns, airing tires, and occasional tools use. Tools that might be used require 4-6 CFM @90psi (I checked), so I'd need to use a regulator and probably need a tank, as an EDC will produce the CFM but it'll be at more like 60psi.

    Tool use is my worst case scenario and while it'd be occasional I'm now designing around that so that I have capacity if/when I want it ... rather than installing an electric (sub 2 CFM) unit and then having remorse about it. I'm also learning that a DIY EDC should be a heck of a lot cheaper than any pre-made kit ... which is one more reason it's appealing ... as it provides more ... for less costs less. Also, the kits seem to skimp; I'd prefer to use braided lines, if possible, and I've seen no kit that has them.


    Would you, by chance, be willing to take a photo of this so that I can see how and where you've done it? Re-inventing the wheel seems pointless and if someone's got a solid mounting mechanism and placement for the tank then it would make sense for me to adopt it, myself, to benefit from that experience.
    If I get a chance this weekend I'll try to snap a picture or two. I need to get under there anyway and remove the EVAP canister for cleanout or replacement.

    FYI, I used DOT airbrake lines and fittings on my whole system. Haven't had any problems going on 3 1/2 years now.

  5. #15

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    Sur I am of the same thought as others in drilling new holes. Shouldn't be an issue for strength. I have seen people use there side steps as tanks. Just close the ends up and tap in a PSV (Pressure Safety Valve). Your issue was with fear of issue's in an accident. There would be a breif rapid release of pressure but it is short lived. As long as the compressor doesn't put out large amounts of air. I have had to make repairs on pressurized lines and just removed a fitting and used a rag folded as a "mit" to catch the fitting after the inital "blast" of air. As far as running pipe I would use both flex and hard pipe. When you get to that stage give me a ring. Or we can go over it later in the month when we get together for an adult beverage.

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by aloxdaddy99 View Post
    Sur I am of the same thought as others in drilling new holes. Shouldn't be an issue for strength. I have seen people use there side steps as tanks. Just close the ends up and tap in a PSV (Pressure Safety Valve). Your issue was with fear of issue's in an accident. There would be a breif rapid release of pressure but it is short lived. As long as the compressor doesn't put out large amounts of air. I have had to make repairs on pressurized lines and just removed a fitting and used a rag folded as a "mit" to catch the fitting after the inital "blast" of air. As far as running pipe I would use both flex and hard pipe. When you get to that stage give me a ring. Or we can go over it later in the month when we get together for an adult beverage.
    Thanks, Alox. I'm not too keen on use of my step rails in this fashion. I think it's brilliant on paper but I also feel that a lot could go wrong with it. They're lower-slung than I'd like air tanks to be.

  7. #17
    Jr. Apprentice DrakeC504's Avatar
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    Do you still have your spare tire? On my friends '05, we took off his spare and made a custom bracket which litterally took no effort in making.

    '07 GMC Sierra SLT Z71

    Mods: 2" RC Leveling Kit; K&N Air Filter; Black Low-Pro Tool Box; Tinted Tail Lights; Debadged; GMS Emblem Painted Black; 5% Tint; 2 12" CVR's
    Soon To Come: RC 3" Suspension/1.25" Body Lift; 17" Ballistic Jesters (Black); Open Country M/T; 1.5" Spacers; K&N 63 Series; Magnaflow Exhaust; Runcool Hood Louvers; Westin HDX Guard & Winch Tray; Bushwacker Boss Fenders; Bullydog Triple Dog GT Tuner

  8. #18

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    My OEM spare is removed. I'm going to attempt to mount a matched full-size spare in its place; we'll see how that goes this weekend. Even if it fails, I -will- find a way to carry a full-size spare in the stock location ... so that location is out for mounting other things.

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