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  1. #1

    Default 77 k10 universal joints go out

    i have had this truck maybe 2 weeks, it has gone through 9 universal joints, i took it to a shop and they said the drivehsaft was bent, and the pinion was bad, and when the u joint broke it sheared the yoke, so all were replaced, they continued to break, what should i check, the pinion angle has been reset for the lift but they are still going. it is the back joint at the rear axle, joint at transfercase has only broke once. im so confused as to why this is happening and the shop i took it to told me it was fixed but it still broke. they said it couldnt handle the torque and to take it easy, but the truck doesnt have that much torque, i mean its a crate 350, but no where near the level of shearing sold u joints just by driving. atleast i wouldnt think. please help im so confused, this is my daily driver and i cant keep dumpin money into it.

    one more thing, on take off at around 1k rpms the whole truck would vibrate violently, but when i was having to drive it by the front wheels cause it has no rear driveshaft, its smooth. i think the problems have the same start but i have no clue what they are.
    1977 chevy k10 with an 85 body
    350 with edelbrock 600 cfm carb and manifold.
    dana 44 front with warn locking hubs. corporate 12 bolt rear. 355 gears
    6 in lift, spring front, blocks in back. 35 in bfg mud terrain km

  2. #2


    Either the driveshaft was installed 180 degrees off, or it's not the right length. I need pics to determine how far the front yoke is from the back of the transfer case. I need to see the final drive angle at the diff. Are you using Spicer joints, or sealed joints? If the vibs feel like they are from the back of the truck, your diff is wasted. Do you have the two piece driveshaft at back. Some pickups had a two piece rear driveshaft. You will see a center support brace between the Tcase, and the diff. Your sig don't tell what trans you have, auto or stick? Do you know if you have a chain drive Tcase, or the gear drive one. There is really only a couple ways a joint will fail, high stress, shock loading, or extreme angles. An auto trans would eli9minate shock loads if the idle is where it should be for a stock truck. Do you mean that the 12 bolt corporate rear has 8 bolt wheel lugs, or the standard six for a 4x4?
    Brian L.
    Last edited by RallySTX; 06-10-2012 at 07:36 PM.

    Brian Larson CST. KC9DAK.
    Janesville WI.
    87 GMC G20 6.2 diesel.

  3. #3


    i just had a driveshaft put in, its a single piece, well it has a slip yoke and that the shaft goes into for travel but it doesnt have the hanger thing that youre talking about, the shop told me it was a gear case, im pulling all my codes tomorrow so ill know for sure. its a three speed manual. and yes it even feels like the rear jumps a bit i can definitly tell its coming from the back. and its a six lug. the rear angle isnt bad, and the front one isnt especially, ive asked several people who have owned these trucks about the angle and they say its fine.

  4. #4


    sounds like a rear end issue to me.....


    2011 GMC Sierra SLE 5.3 Z71 4X4 Stealth Gray Metallic / 2004 Chevy Impala LS 3.8 Cappuccino

    Tow mirrors - Diablew Tuned - Flowmaster Regular 40 - Ready Lift 2.5' lift - BFG LT A/T K/Os - Carr Light Wing - TruckLite LED lights - Optima Red Top - 50% Front Window Tint - Line-X bedliner - Airaid MIT - Tekonsha P2 - ARS Billet Grill - Fia custom fit seat covers

  5. #5


    i have a set of 8 lugs off an 81 k20 suburban that i could put on there if that would be best.

  6. #6


    You mean 8 lug axles? only if you like spending extra on wheels and such. I'm not sure at the moment if the 12 bolt corporate is a full floater or not, I gotta look it up. I had a van that would buck when I started backing up, and that needed a whole new rear end. I had another one that didn't buck yet, but whined a lot on the road, does your truck whine? Funny the shop installed new rear joints, replaced a pinion gear, but didn't see bad case bearings?!? Is that rear end a posi, limited slip, or open diff I would like to know if the vibe at 1000 rpm is there in all the ranges of the tcase. Right now I'm wondering how good a job they did at aligning the ring and pinion. How long after the shop visit did it take to see the issues come back?
    Brian L.
    Last edited by RallySTX; 06-10-2012 at 08:24 PM.

  7. #7


    the rear diff now is open, and i didnt happen to use 4x4 while it still had a rear driveshaft, but it doesnt shake and all when its pulled from front wheels, just back. they told me my rear end was loose or had play or something like that. it sounded like bs so i would have them replace my rear end.

  8. #8


    What my guy did for me was take a prybar and place it below the carrier, in the diff, case and he was able to move the carrier up and down easilly, about an inch or two. Plus the oil came out black, and full of small chunks of metal. You can remove your own cover, and check for metal shavings, and see if you can move the carrier up and down at all. Just add permatex to the cover before you put it back on. They should have been able to show you the difference. But nobody's perfect. I thought my guy was after my wallet too, but I couldn't deny the condition of the oil, and he had a cheap offer to fix it.
    Brian L.

  9. #9


    well they replaced rear diff fluid when they did the pinion and all and it started shaking when i was driving it home, i assumed it was bad clutch work, but its all the time, even when my friend drives, and he drives a standard for years. so i dont think its that. im afraid its in the rear end just from how it feels

  10. #10


    If that's the original 77 rear, it's probably due for a rebuild. I can link a few sites that will help you try it yourself. I would think hard about that idea though, it's much easier to dig one up at a salvage yard that's known to be good, and just swap it in.
    Brian L.

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