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Thread: advice on 35s

  1. #1

    Default advice on 35s

    I am planning on upgrading from 33s to 35s on my 96 Chevy Suburban K1500, after my upcoming summer vacation to Afghanistan. Currently I have a 3 inch body lift, and will add the bushwacker cut out fender flares to fit the 35's. What else should I be concerned with from most prevalent to least. Oh and I'm running 12 bolt with 3.73 gears with a 350 vortec.

    Thanks in-advance,

    Dylan

  2. #2

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    Bigger tires mean less wheel revolutions across a given distance than smaller tires would make ... which translates to less opportunity for your brakes to do their jobs in that distance. Consider rotor and brake upgrades to compensate or increase following distance (don't tailgate!). You're probably already a little sluggish with 3.73's running 33's -- you might consider 4.56's to go with your 35's.

  3. #3

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    Ya I have upgraded my front brakes to include slotted cross drilled rotors and new calipers. I've also installed the truspeed speedo re-calibrator. Changing the gears is definitely going to be a must. Should I be worried about running 35s on that 12 bolt, I realize I'm pretty much stuck with my 8.5 inch front end. Are there issues with 35s and 12 bolts?

  4. #4

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    I run 34.3's on a 10-bolt so I think you'll be fine as long as you're not trying to pretend you're a monster truck in terms of driving habits.

    I'm surprised you went with drilled rotors, as they tend to crack...

  5. #5

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    Well I usually research my purchases pretty well but your comment about cracked slotted rotors has the pucker factor going up. I bought the rotors off summit racing http://www.summitracing.com/search/Year/1996/Make/CHEVROLET/Model/K1500-SUBURBAN/Department/Brake-Systems/Part-Type/Brake-Rotors/?Ns=Rank|Asc. I did a little research fearing the worst and came across this http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-p...ke-rotors1.htm. Which makes me feel a little better, I have 3 cross drilled rotors on my 2006 honda VFR800 motorcycle which has a linked brake system that functions much like a cars brake system. after 26k miles my rotors show no signs of cracks which gives me warm fuzzies about my burb rotors. thanks for the heads up though, i'll keep an eye out. I'm really excited to hear that your running 34s on a 10 bolt, gives me confidence. One request though SurrealOne, define "pretending to be a monster truck".
    Thanks

  6. #6
    Sr. Mechanic Ridyn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SurrealOne View Post
    Bigger tires mean less wheel revolutions across a given distance than smaller tires would make ... which translates to less opportunity for your brakes to do their jobs in that distance. Consider rotor and brake upgrades to compensate or increase following distance (don't tailgate!). You're probably already a little sluggish with 3.73's running 33's -- you might consider 4.56's to go with your 35's.

    This man has covered everything already that is severely important when upgrading to larger tires. Definitely consider doing your brakes first as that will keep you more safe than getting larger gears. Once you have upgraded your safety features, then go ahead and upgrade the gears to the larger ones as advised.

    Once you do those few first essential things, you're golden and you can do anything you want!

    "Never ask a man if he's from Texas. If he is, he'll tell you. If he isn't, there is no need to embarrass him."

    2012 Silverado 1500 Texas Edition 4x4 LT skid plate, 5000k 55W low beams with DRL fuse removed, 5000k 35W fog lamps.

    Leveling kit and tires coming soon.

    Leaving for boot camp at MCRDSD 20121008.

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