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  1. #1

    Default Parking brake troubles

    Not sure if this is the best place to put this. My parking brake is slightly engaged and is rubbing on the inside of my rear passenger rotor (disc brakes) and is steadily eating away at the rotor. I'm sure that the parking brake pedal is not pushed in and the light is not on (parking brake doesn't even work anyway). At 10-55mph it makes a very annoying noise like a Walmart bag in the wind which is the metal grinding and my exhaust noise drowns it out past 55mph. Not quite sure what would cause this or how to fix this. Any advice would be great.



    If at first you don't succeed, chances are, you are using too small of a cheater bar

    Current:
    1999 GMC Sierra SLT Z71 | 5.3 Vortec | Spectre Cold Air Intake | TransDapt TBS | Hypertech 30005 Tune | 2005 Chevy Tails | Denali headlights | AWS Bug Shield | 265/75/16 Mastercraft Courser A/T | "Ghetto" painted tailgate | Boss HD Speakers | 2005 Overhead Console | Dual Thrush Turbo Mufflers
    Future:
    Bigger Amp Alternator | Electric Fans | Oil/Trans Fluid cooler | Re-done exhaust | Paint | Interior Restoration/upgrade with newer model stuff | Window Visors (In channel) | Tint | Low-Profile Tool Box | LEDs throughout stock cab locations | And whatever is spurr of the moment
    US Navy Sailor :sign0011:

  2. #2

    Default

    I've never worked on rear disk PBS, but if it's cable operated, you need to lube that cable with WD40 and see if you can looses it up enough to stop the drag. Why is it nonfunctional in the first place? My guess would be poorly maintained cables. This system is your only means of stopping the truck in an emergency. People routinely blow hydraulic lines all the time, and then you have mabye two stabs at the brake pedal before you're out of fluid. Once that happens, you have NO BRAKES. On top of all that, you're supposed to use that Ebrake/Parking brake, every time you park the rig. The rear parking brake is far more powerful at keeping the vehicle stopped than any plastic gear in the tailshaft of your tranny will ever be! Add an open diff to that, and you only have one wheel keeping the vehicle stationary. I live in a very hilly area, I'm a trained driver, my Ebrake works, or it's on a VERY short list. Hope you get it fixed soon.
    Brian L.




    Brian Larson CST. KC9DAK.
    Janesville WI.
    87 GMC G20 6.2 diesel.

  3. #3

    Default

    To make sure the brake is fully disengaged, there is a little lever that the cable attaches to on the back of the brake to engage the brake. Hit it with a hammer & punch or something long and thin that can get in there and it will push it to the full off position. No need to remove anything.

    I know this from experience because the cables cut into each other on my 2001 Silverado so the parking brake would seize anytime i put it on. I had to use this method to disengage it a few times

    2001 Silverado Reg. Cab Not-So-Base -- SOLD
    2003 Avalanche Z71. No Cladding. Check out my Mod thread.
    1974 Triumph Spitfire 1500 - Work in Progress
    2003 Sierra 3500 Duramax. The Newer, Better Work Truck


  4. #4

    Default

    Not really sure as to why they never worked. But the cable definately moves (as much as I can see while bending over and looking when I push the pedal). I just don't want to be replacing 6 month old rotors.



    If at first you don't succeed, chances are, you are using too small of a cheater bar

    Current:
    1999 GMC Sierra SLT Z71 | 5.3 Vortec | Spectre Cold Air Intake | TransDapt TBS | Hypertech 30005 Tune | 2005 Chevy Tails | Denali headlights | AWS Bug Shield | 265/75/16 Mastercraft Courser A/T | "Ghetto" painted tailgate | Boss HD Speakers | 2005 Overhead Console | Dual Thrush Turbo Mufflers
    Future:
    Bigger Amp Alternator | Electric Fans | Oil/Trans Fluid cooler | Re-done exhaust | Paint | Interior Restoration/upgrade with newer model stuff | Window Visors (In channel) | Tint | Low-Profile Tool Box | LEDs throughout stock cab locations | And whatever is spurr of the moment
    US Navy Sailor :sign0011:

  5. #5

    Default

    I see that lever moving back when the pedal is pushed in and releasing when I pull the release lever. I guess I'll be taking a look or two at it before I go for our weekly run.



    If at first you don't succeed, chances are, you are using too small of a cheater bar

    Current:
    1999 GMC Sierra SLT Z71 | 5.3 Vortec | Spectre Cold Air Intake | TransDapt TBS | Hypertech 30005 Tune | 2005 Chevy Tails | Denali headlights | AWS Bug Shield | 265/75/16 Mastercraft Courser A/T | "Ghetto" painted tailgate | Boss HD Speakers | 2005 Overhead Console | Dual Thrush Turbo Mufflers
    Future:
    Bigger Amp Alternator | Electric Fans | Oil/Trans Fluid cooler | Re-done exhaust | Paint | Interior Restoration/upgrade with newer model stuff | Window Visors (In channel) | Tint | Low-Profile Tool Box | LEDs throughout stock cab locations | And whatever is spurr of the moment
    US Navy Sailor :sign0011:

  6. #6

    Default

    Well, mabye the return spring is just weak, or the pivots just need a bit of lube. Sloppt maintenance is usually the reason for trouble. Sad to see you get stuck with it, but it happens every day. I have no idea what I'm buying into with my van, but I'm commited to it none the less.
    Brian L.




    Brian Larson CST. KC9DAK.
    Janesville WI.
    87 GMC G20 6.2 diesel.

  7. #7

    Default

    ive never messed with rear disc.if the brake is draging looseing up the bleeder screw.if it releases then change your brake hose some times they colapse. and they want release.

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