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Thread: Painting Emgine Plastics
06-27-2012, 09:43 PM #1
Painting Emgine Plastics
I know this really isn't a Q&A but it also isn't a how to. But I am currently painting the plastics under the hood of my truck. I am not a painter. But I did learn some things will taking on this mod. I went to a body shop and asked how much they would charge to paint the pieces to match the body color of my truck. Which is Blue Granite Met.
The first thing I had to do was find the body color. Easy right? Wrong! The paint code in the glove box was incorrect. It showed 928l. Which comes out to be stealth gray I think. But any way it is not the correct color. So I went to a paint store to get the correct color. They came out with some kind of scanner to get the proper mix. It came to be a Honda color. While I was there I also picked up a can of gloss black,high gloss clear, build up primer and adhesion promoter. The pint of paint came in a can already cut so all I had to do was to pour it into the cup and spray. They sold me a some kind of a spray bottle that uses a glass bottle that screws onto a propellant to spray the paint.
Other than the items I listed the other things you will need are painters tape. I used 1/8, 1/4, and 3/4 to mask off the different areas. Sand paper in various grit. I used 600 and 1500. And probably the most important is a sharp razor blade.
Now that all the tools have been assembled it is time to get started. The first step is to clean the part. Some soap and water is all I needed since I never put any protectant on the parts before. The next thing I did was to scuff the part with the 600 grit. I did this because the parts have a texture to them and I wanted them to be smooth. Once I finished sanding I wiped the part off using some alcohol. Let it flash off to before going to the next step.
I than sprayed on the promoter. 2 light coats. Waiting about 10 minutes in between. Than comes where I made my first mistake. I only sprayed 1 coat of the build up primer, and it was a light coat. I should have used at least 3 coats. This will help to fill in the texture to make it look better. Than comes the top coats. I sprayed the body color next. Again 3 coats. Waiting about 10 min in between each coat. After about 30 minutes after the last coat or when it is dry begin to mask parts off. It was a trial by fire when it came to this step. I say this because I wasted more tape than I care to admit. But I finally came up with a plan that worked. Was it the way the pros would do probably not but it worked.
Once second and third, fourth or how every many colors you use is dried pull off the masking than clear with 3 more coats.
If anyone has some tips to the trade to add I would appreciate it cause I am not finished painting the parts yet.
Last edited by aloxdaddy99; 06-28-2012 at 05:07 AM.
06-28-2012, 09:08 AM #2
06-28-2012, 10:25 AM #3
You did an Awesome Job!!!.......I really like the Two Tone look, and the Attention to Detail, Very Nice.......
5.3 l 3.73 l G80
BLACK BEAR CUSTOM TUNE
SNUGTOP l COLORMATCH l KATZKIN
06-28-2012, 10:37 AM #4
Stealth Gray and Blue Granite are the same colour.
Stealth Gray is what it is called on a GMC
Blue Granite is what it is called on a Chevy
Nice work though!
2012 Silverado 1500 LS Crew Cab 4.8L 4x4
- Nitto Tera Grapler 265/70R17, Line-X bed liner, Black Bowties, Stampede front deflector, DeeZee black diamond plate bed rails, TonnoPro Lo-roll cover, Antenna deleted, Spyder Projection Headlights with Phillips CrystalVision Ultra bulbs, Spyder Tail Lights & 3rd Brake Light, Rough Country leveling kit, PlastiDip'd emblems, and wheel hubs, Diablosport Trinity, 20% tint, Black OEM grill
"Coming through in a new Chevy, droppin' game like it's too heavy."
06-28-2012, 12:40 PM #5
06-28-2012, 02:33 PM #6
I agree with you that the colour is a blue shade. My last truck was a Blue Granite 07 Silverado. However, I can also assure you that this colour is the same as Stealth Gray on a GMC.
Here is a GMC Sierra listed as Stealth Gray: http://shawgmc.com/2007-GMC-Sierra-1...ada/vd/9991331
Here is a Chevy Silverado listed as Blue Granite: http://shawgmc.com/2007-Chevrolet-Si...ada/vd/9981445
They use the same colour codes. I used Stealth Gray touch-up paint on mine and it was the same.
I'm not trying to start an argument, just wanted to clarify for anyone reading this thread in the future.
06-28-2012, 03:20 PM #7
The more I look at these, the more I like the idea.
If you don't mind me asking approximately how long did the project take from sanding to clearing?
06-28-2012, 03:46 PM #8
The part that gets alot of people is the clear - getting a even coat and no runs is tricky for beginners and I dont recommend clear in a rattle can but if thats what you have to work with then thats what you have.
As with the paint allow 10 min or so between coats. I usually la down a tack coat..just a light coat - dont worry about coverage. The second coat I go heavier and get a nice "wet" look coat. The third coat I lay down a slightly heavier than the second.
This time a year when its warm/hot you can wait 24hrs generally then you can cut and buff the clear. If the can of clear says cured in 24 hrs you can add a day or so to that depending on the weather, how many coats you put down, how long you waited between coats.
Depending on if you get any "trash" in the clear (dirt, knats, etc) or runs, you may not even need to cut and buff.
If you do, get a bucket of water, add dish soap then get some 500,1000,1500,2000 grit sand paper. Soak your sand paper in the water for a little bit. The soap just acts a lubricant. If it any time you hear "squeaking" while wet sanding STOP. You have dirt or something on the surface and you will scratch the clear. Rinse of the part and the sand paper before continuing.
Start with the 500 grit using a circular motion working your way up to the 2000. remember your only wanting to get a even smooth surface, you dont want to take off alot of clear. Each level of sand paper is intended to remove sanding marks from the previous grit level. Wipe off the surface witha cotton rag often so that you can see the progress to ensure your dont burn through the clear and get into the base coat.
I spend the most time on the 500 grit - just till I see its starting to level out uneven spots...then I move on to 1000 etc...each grit level is removing smaller amounts of clear til you get a smooth surface.
Then you will need to get some polishing compound, bufffing wheel, and maybe some hand glaze to get that shine everyone likes!
Try to stay off the edges as it easier to burn through the clear on edges.
07-02-2012, 12:13 PM #9
Thanks for the tips. I was wondering how I get the shine to come out. I didn't even think about buffing the paint.
07-02-2012, 01:00 PM #10
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